Project: Doitall Dodge

[Metcalf]

These company and I used the version small enough to go through the valve stem. To do it over, but break the outer bead it would take less time...

http://www.counteractbalancing.com/counteract/

 

[CumminAlong]

Are the version that fits through the valve stem the motorcycle beads? I can't seem to find that info anywhere.

 

[Metcalf]

Its been awhile but I seem to remember there being two different versions, one that would fit through the stem and one that wouldn't. If you using them on your H1 wheels you might want to do some digging on that application. I think the beads can get caught between the tire and the beadlock causing issues....

 

[E.Roy]

Thanks for posting this thread up here, it was great to see your build and restoration. It was also encouraging to see how reliable and useful the truck has been. I have a very similar truck that I picked up back in February. I was happy to pick up this truck with a good history, bought it from the original owner, cool elderly man, had a big camper in it, and he added the winch, camped in the Catskill, NY area. These trucks are great, I love it, but there is so much to update and refresh on them. But I am proceding slowly and continue to clean it up. Heck, mine just rolled 108k, practically still a virgin at 22. Thanks again!

Just a thought for you: It might help you to be happier with keeping the old stud if you were to take some time to refresh the interior with come comfy seats and some sound deadening and creature comforts.

 

[Metcalf]

Just a thought for you: It might help you to be happier with keeping the old stud if you were to take some time to refresh the interior with come comfy seats and some sound deadening and creature comforts.

I have thought about that, specifically seats. Right now it just works and keeps working. The suspension is probably the area that I would want to dump the most money right now, I guess I am getting old but the factory leaf springs are just getting a little long in the tooth. This was however a very budget build and I am not sure about putting a lot more money into the truck, it works, works well enough, and doesn't cost me anything at this point....

 

[Metcalf]

Well, time to give the Dodge a little love before winter fully sets in.....

-I ordered a full kingpin rebuild kit. That should be fun. I have had some uneven tire wear in the front that I think is related to the front axle having over 300,000 miles on it. Hopefully getting in there and rebuilding things will get everything back to normal and let me get a good front end alignment done. Those big tires are expensive and I hate to wear them out faster than I have to.

This was the best deal I could find.....

http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/Dana60frontaxleparts.htm

The kits are $66 each, in stock, and fairly local to me for quick shipping.

Now I need to make a big 7/8" hex socket thing for the kingpin cone whichamacallit

-I also finally broke down and ordered a piston lift pump kit. I have a feeling my diaphragm pump is just about done. The piston lift pump should be a LOT more durable in the long run. I also feel better about using alternative fuels in the piston pump.

I ordered from here.....

http://oregonfuelinjection.com/index.php?pid=11#FUEL_SUPPLY_PUMP

HFP702-kit

Fuel Supply Pump kit, High Flow Piston Style for VE Pump, maintains supply pressure over 7 psi on performance applications - comes with supply pump, spacer plate, gaskets and fuel supply tube

The kit price is $132 plus hipping.

The pump can be tuned for higher pressures by slightly reducing the thickness of the spacer if needed. I can't imagine even this lower cost pump being WAY better than my existing pump.


Other projects on the list.......

-Install the 3200rpm spring that has been sitting on the shelf for freaking ever!

-Install the autometer gauge package I have sitting on the shelf. EGT, Electric fuel pressue, and boost. I am going to try and make a custom gauge mount that replaces the information cluster on the dash. I need to paint the dash anyways.

-Install the HE351 turbo. It too has been sitting on the shelf way too long. This kinda opens up a can of worms however. The new turbo probably means I should build that new 4" exhaust I have been planning. If I want to ever have my mid mounted winch installed I need to run the exhaust outside the frame. Building a down-pipe that can snake down outside the cab is going to be REALLY challenging. I'm half tempted to just order a full 4" exhaust and pass on the winch for now......just don't know.....

That should just about get me caught up. I could dump another few thousand dollars and few thousand hours on this truck. All in all it's been a great truck but I hesitate to put a ton more resources into it. To be honest, I have been thinking about moving on to a 03-07 Dodge 2500 version of the same basic concept.

More to come....

 

[SChandler]

When I did the kingpin rebuild on my truck, I got the kingpin socket and 7/8" hex wrench (used with a 4'-5' piece of steel tube to break the kingpins loose) from these guys: https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/pr..."-Hex-Wrench-{47}-Socket,-Upper-King-Pin-Tool With your access to raw material and machine tools, it's probably cheaper for you to make something yourself. I did find a 7/8" hex wrench for sale at the local Mom and Pop tool store locally, so maybe you could source one near you without having to make it.

 

[Metcalf]

When I did the kingpin rebuild on my truck, I got the kingpin socket and 7/8" hex wrench (used with a 4'-5' piece of steel tube to break the kingpins loose) from these guys: https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/pr..."-Hex-Wrench-{47}-Socket,-Upper-King-Pin-Tool With your access to raw material and machine tools, it's probably cheaper for you to make something yourself. I did find a 7/8" hex wrench for sale at the local Mom and Pop tool store locally, so maybe you could source one near you without having to make it.

I was going to start with using a 1/2-13 coupling nut I found in the bin at work. It measures .875 across the flats. I can just use a 7/8 socket on the other end.

This might work. It has nice threads in the middle to pull the broken part back out

 

[SChandler]

The nut might work, but the king pins are in there tight. Factory spec is 500-600 ft-lbs. With a 5' long piece of tube as a "cheater bar", I managed (with an assist from my wife) to twist, slightly, the 7/8" hex wrench. I think if you are going for sockets you already have, I would drop a straight chunk of hex stock in the king pin and use a 7/8" socket on that. I think you'd only need about 2" of hex stock to seat it fully in the king pin and have plenty of height to put a socket on. Everything else is straight forward and comparatively easy.

 

[Metcalf]

The nut might work, but the king pins are in there tight. Factory spec is 500-600 ft-lbs. With a 5' long piece of tube as a "cheater bar", I managed (with an assist from my wife) to twist, slightly, the 7/8" hex wrench. I think if you are going for sockets you already have, I would drop a straight chunk of hex stock in the king pin and use a 7/8" socket on that. I think you'd only need about 2" of hex stock to seat it fully in the king pin and have plenty of height to put a socket on. Everything else is straight forward and comparatively easy.

Yeah. I will start spraying them with penetrating oil now

The long coupling nut should be pretty strong when loaded like that. I can always weld the middle up making it solid also. It is about 1.75" long.

I have some hex stock around that I can mill down if needed, but it probably isn't as strong as the grade 8 or 5 coupling nut material.

 

[SChandler]

A coupling nut should work ok. When I read your first reply I missed that you said coupling nut. I was trying to figure out how you were going to use a standard hex nut and get it to sit high enough to put a socket it on it and seat somewhat in the kingpin. A coupling nut makes much more sense. :elkgrin:

 

[E.Roy]

Metcalf,

Could you comment on how you like the lift springs on the front of your truck now? I think you said they were 2 1/2" skyjackers? How is the ride and travel. Right now my stock front springs are sagged badly and only 1/2" from the point on the stock bump stop on my 91. Maybe if you get a chance, you could measure the distance from the spring to the bump stop.
I want to add sufficient travel for rough terrain

Eric

 

[Metcalf]

My springs are a homemade job by the PO that are a POS. They ride pretty stiff and probably have less travel than stock.
However, they are still in the truck, work, and haven't sagged. I guess they are not THAT bad.

The distance from the top of the main leaf to the bumpstop is 2.75-3"
The distance from the fender lip to the hub is 22.75-23"

 

[flexiheep]

I have the 2.5 softride springs on my 93, they are a lot softer riding than my old stock springs were. My stock springs sat less than an inch from my bump stops in the front, the 2.5" spring sit closer to 4 I think (haven't measured). They are soft though. I find the front feels a little floaty on rough roads with the longer spring travel and the heavy diesel weight. Good shocks that can deal with controlling the weight and spring travel is important. I pulled my sway bar off to make room for a cross over steering setup and need to find a way to put one back on one of these days.

For the kingpin removal. Brennan, you might not need to change them out, I did mine at 280K and the studs were in good shape, I replaced then since I had new ones though. I bought the allen socket from the place I bought my kits from and went to harbor freight and bought the biggest longest 3/4 drive breaker they had. I put a piece of 2*3 tube (8' long or so) I had on it and mine came out without any drama. The socket was 30 bucks, but worth it as easy as it was to use.


For the 366 spring, this is the best set of instructions and picture I have found, made it very easy to do mine the first time.
Mad Max 366 install

 

[E.Roy]

Thank you gents for the replies. Sounds like the 2.5" Skyjacker springs fit my needs, I want a soft and compliant ride, and Im willing to accept some float with lean in the turns. Flexiheep, how is it with the sway bar removed? I was just planning to remove mine for more flex offroad, since I had done that in the past with a 1986 1/2 ton Chevy with no apparent negatives. Any chance you have record of the part number for the front springs? I have been looking and Skyjacker has numerous part numbers to sort through, I guess they lift less with the Cummins weight. Edit: maybe its just SummitRacing has it confusing. Under application for SJA-200s, it says 1", 2" and 2.5" ???