I bought my ZJ at roughly the same age as you, and have had it now for almost 17 years. Fun rigs that don't get as much respect as they should.
Biggest drawback is the unibody. Couple other areas to keep an eye on with a 98 as well. Your front driveshaft is likely a rezeppa style cv joint at the pinion end. If you lift it and/or disconnect your front swaybar, you WILL destroy the joint. Basically all of the slip in the shaft is built into that joint, and there's not enough slip there to keep up with a front axle that articulates more than stock with a connected swaybar. It also has a Dana 44 that's a bit different than others, in that it's an aluminum housing. The differential housing is shared between the 96-98 V8 ZJ's, V8 WJ's, and if memory serves some Vipers as well. Everything else on those other axles is different though. It's a relatively strong axle, but tends to eat bearings faster than iron housing axles. Also has limited aftermarket support. The transfer case works relatively well for mild builds. The full time 4wd is a beast in the snow, and the low range in the 96-98 249 is substantially better than the earlier 93-95 249. I would hold off on a t-case swap until you need to, when the viscous coupler in the t-case goes out or some other issue with the case. On the motor, keep an eye on oil consumption, as a bad intake plenum gasket is pretty common on these motors, although it's a pretty easy fix.
To start, I'd do a cheap spacer lift or a front to rear swap. Both can be done pretty cheap, and allow you to progress your driving skills along with the rig's capabilities. You can easily run 31's with those setups, or if you don't mind some healthy trimming 32's can be done as well. You'll probably want new shocks, but with the shorter lifts you don't need to mess much with control arms and trackbars. My ZJ was on a 2" BB and 32's for several years and I was always impressed with where it would take me. Also invest in some good armor, skid plates, rock sliders, etc. The ZJ is pretty long and low, need to protect the under carriage.
As you gain more wheel time, and get more comfortable with the vehicle, THEN start looking at the pricier modifications. I wheeled my ZJ heavily for 6 or 7 years before making the jump to long arms. Keep an eye on where the control arms, particularly the uppers, mount to the unibody, major weak point that has led many to upgrade to long arms. Then you can also start looking at axle swaps, re-gearing, lockers, etc.
My particular build includes a high pinion D30 from an XJ, an 8.8 with an Aussie Locker from an Explorer, 4.56 gears, Clayton's long arms (best on the market IMO), 4.5" coils and 35's. It takes me just about anywhere I'd want to take a full bodied unibody rig.
There's a few vendors out there that really cater to the ZJ crowd as well, and I have done business with just about all of them. Kevin's Off Road, Clayton Off Road, and Iron Rock Off Road are the first 3 that come to mind.
One other note I'll leave based on some of your comments in your previous posts is to read up on Tread Lightly! and their principles. Responsible recreation is key to the continuation of our sport. I can't see your pics from work, and not making any accusations, but educating ourselves on how to enjoy wheeling is just as important, if not more important, than building our rigs.