Project Victory_Overland 08 LR3 Build Thread!
- Thread starter Victory_Overland
- Start date
Victory_Overland
Explorer
@Hawkbeard Thanks for the comments on the build thread! Victory is coming along as fast and as much as I can afford her to with all of my distractions. I try to keep the installs and maintenance as detailed as possible so it will help someone else out in the end. I know I have learned so much from this community and I am just trying to pay it forward.
Thus far, my best mod is no secret; 17" wheels with KM2's (and all the other true 17" off-road capable rubber); I believe the 17" with true air-down capability really let the traction control open up to full capability. The second is the interior sleeping set up which is by no means a fast process, but has been really fun so far. I hope to get the rest of the fab on the sleeping platform frame done this weekend and then I can start cutting the top!
Victory_Overland
Explorer
My fab buddy is hard down and sick for the last few days so I am letting him recover and then we will finish the sleeping platform frame. Today, I dug out the Traxide kit from the parts box and started pulling the rest of the interior to start this wiring mess. My plan is maybe an S-Pod and I am considering running a third battery in the interior, or maybe just one really big ****** battery inside and keep the compressor in the second spot under the hood.......I'm open for ideas!
On that note, I took the headliner down today to ensure I complete my full wiring inspection of the vehicle. Thus far, everything looks really good, zero corrosion and my sunroof drains are clear and secure.
On that note, Victory's headliner is sagging so I plan to recover all of the cloth areas in either black or go gray again....undecided. FYI, if you want to take the headliner down, it's quite easy and the whole process of getting the rest of the interior out was less than 30 minutes.
Process for removing the headliner:
1) Remove the A-pillar, B-pillar, C-pillar, and rear upper hatch covers.
2) Remove both sun visors.
3) Remove all oh-******** handles
4) Main harness connector in the front A-pillar by the dash (Right Side)
5) Main harness connector on the back left upper by the third brake light.
6) Slowly pull down on your side of choice as it is only held up by plastic pin clips like the rest of the panels in the LRs.
7) Once its down, angle it to pull it out from the rear of the vehicle.
I'm considering no installing the rear lower side panels with the cubbies and making my own as my goal is to eventually remove the third row windows and make expedition panel doors in those!
On that note, I took the headliner down today to ensure I complete my full wiring inspection of the vehicle. Thus far, everything looks really good, zero corrosion and my sunroof drains are clear and secure.
On that note, Victory's headliner is sagging so I plan to recover all of the cloth areas in either black or go gray again....undecided. FYI, if you want to take the headliner down, it's quite easy and the whole process of getting the rest of the interior out was less than 30 minutes.
Process for removing the headliner:
1) Remove the A-pillar, B-pillar, C-pillar, and rear upper hatch covers.
2) Remove both sun visors.
3) Remove all oh-******** handles
4) Main harness connector in the front A-pillar by the dash (Right Side)
5) Main harness connector on the back left upper by the third brake light.
6) Slowly pull down on your side of choice as it is only held up by plastic pin clips like the rest of the panels in the LRs.
7) Once its down, angle it to pull it out from the rear of the vehicle.
I'm considering no installing the rear lower side panels with the cubbies and making my own as my goal is to eventually remove the third row windows and make expedition panel doors in those!
Victory_Overland
Explorer
Thank Rob! I feel like its spent more time in the garage the last few months than anything with all of this project stuff. Ever since the wiring problem, I've decided that starting the full project is as good of time as any since the interior is all the way out......no going back now! lol
Victory_Overland
Explorer
I had an alternator failure last night on the way home from my buddy's fab shop! Not much to say about that other than it's always good to have an alternator on the shelf and I'm so good at it, I can have an alternator swapped out from start to finish in under an hour now! I'm not sure if that's a good thing or reinforcement to always have my spare alternator accessible.....lol
Indications: flashing battery light at idle, goes away with touch of the accelerator. Then I got the tip angle sensor, trans fault, suspension fault, dash went out completely, and I was able to limp it to the petrol station parking lot! Took a lovely "Roadside Service" tow home!
Slapping the dollies on!
On that note, we made some serious progress yesterday and the sleeping platform is ready for me to put the top on. I am not sure when I will get to it, but more than likely it will be after the Traxide install so I have the panels back in the cab and the front seats installed.
For now, here are the removable front sections! They will attached to the main cargo platform by barrel hinges or drop hinges as some call them! That way they lock in place but can be removed fast and easy with no unbolting! I've also had the design in mind that the front legs will extend so I can tilt the front panels up for some reclining action! Woot Woot! More to follow on that!
Clamp up fit-check! Again, these pieces will be quick-release removable! The back section in the cargo area is bolted down so it will take a bit to get it out but still fairly easy due to design.
Front pieces are just propped up in this photo. The adjustable legs are not done yet!
Indications: flashing battery light at idle, goes away with touch of the accelerator. Then I got the tip angle sensor, trans fault, suspension fault, dash went out completely, and I was able to limp it to the petrol station parking lot! Took a lovely "Roadside Service" tow home!
Slapping the dollies on!
On that note, we made some serious progress yesterday and the sleeping platform is ready for me to put the top on. I am not sure when I will get to it, but more than likely it will be after the Traxide install so I have the panels back in the cab and the front seats installed.
For now, here are the removable front sections! They will attached to the main cargo platform by barrel hinges or drop hinges as some call them! That way they lock in place but can be removed fast and easy with no unbolting! I've also had the design in mind that the front legs will extend so I can tilt the front panels up for some reclining action! Woot Woot! More to follow on that!
Clamp up fit-check! Again, these pieces will be quick-release removable! The back section in the cargo area is bolted down so it will take a bit to get it out but still fairly easy due to design.
Front pieces are just propped up in this photo. The adjustable legs are not done yet!
Victory_Overland
Explorer
After I installed the new alternator today, I decided it was a great time to rebuild the front valve block since my front end was sagging overnight. I posted a "DIY Instruction" on the forums here for all the details of the project!
Parts found here: $35 per block (2 x valve blocks = $70)
BP Utah EAS Valve Block Rebuild Kit
Very EASY Project!
RR LR3/4 Valve Block Rebuild
All done and working perfectly again. I'll get around to the rear in the next week or so but right now their are no issues back there! hahaha
Parts found here: $35 per block (2 x valve blocks = $70)
BP Utah EAS Valve Block Rebuild Kit
Very EASY Project!
RR LR3/4 Valve Block Rebuild
All done and working perfectly again. I'll get around to the rear in the next week or so but right now their are no issues back there! hahaha
Victory_Overland
Explorer
Yesterday I tackled the two-piece transmission filter change! I will not go into detail on this other than follow the AB Link YouTube video and this job will go off without a hitch!
AB 2-Piece Transmission Filter Change
My only change to how this process went down was to shave the heat shield bolts down to a shorter length for ease of install. The four 8mm bolts that hold the heat shield MOUNT to the transmission is the hardest part. Doug recommends removing the front prop-shaft to ease the install of the mount, however, I found shaving down three of the short bolts was an easier job since they do not support anything other than the heat shield mount.
On a final note, I plan to modify my skid plate to hold the heat shield so when I drop the skid plate, I do not have to ever worry about the ****** pain of putting this heat shield on again!
AB 2-Piece Transmission Filter Change
My only change to how this process went down was to shave the heat shield bolts down to a shorter length for ease of install. The four 8mm bolts that hold the heat shield MOUNT to the transmission is the hardest part. Doug recommends removing the front prop-shaft to ease the install of the mount, however, I found shaving down three of the short bolts was an easier job since they do not support anything other than the heat shield mount.
On a final note, I plan to modify my skid plate to hold the heat shield so when I drop the skid plate, I do not have to ever worry about the ****** pain of putting this heat shield on again!
Definitely on my list. Are you saying you'd be bolting it "down" to the skid plate, instead of "up" to... whatever it currently attaches to? Almost like sandwiching it, I'm imagining.
Victory_Overland
Explorer
@Hawkbeard that is correct, I plan to sandwich it or mount it on the skid plate so when the plate comes down, the trans pan is immediately accessible. I will do the same for aftermarket skid plates when the time comes. If you watch the video, you will see the bracket the heat shield attaches too; the bracket bolts in four places to the transmission and of course, all are in horrible spots.....lol!
On that note, I'll double check the alignment when I put my skid plate back on and go from there. Right now, I plan to run the vehicle a few days with no underbody protection to ensure I do not have leaks.
On that note, I'll double check the alignment when I put my skid plate back on and go from there. Right now, I plan to run the vehicle a few days with no underbody protection to ensure I do not have leaks.
Jwestpro
Explorer
Wow nice idea to mount the heat shield to belly armor. I swapped out the little bolts with standard hex head and shorter.
Reason for hex head is a ratcheting box wrench is way easier to slide in for the tight ones than the L shaped end of an Allen wrench. Plus the ratcheting box is so quick vs trying to start over n over w Allen key or fit a hex bit on a ratchet that’s too big for the areas. And I even have some tiny low profile hex stuff. The basic head bolts were way easier. I think they’re 10mm flange head M5 or 6 to be exact.
I just remembered I owe you some detailed photos of battery area...
Reason for hex head is a ratcheting box wrench is way easier to slide in for the tight ones than the L shaped end of an Allen wrench. Plus the ratcheting box is so quick vs trying to start over n over w Allen key or fit a hex bit on a ratchet that’s too big for the areas. And I even have some tiny low profile hex stuff. The basic head bolts were way easier. I think they’re 10mm flange head M5 or 6 to be exact.
I just remembered I owe you some detailed photos of battery area...
Victory_Overland
Explorer
I have M8 6pt hex head I believe. I planned to swap them out after I shaved them down and they were still a ********** to get in. One is obstruction free, the other three are in horrible locations and it’s just a poor design all around IMO.
So, I took it back off knowing I wanted to observe for leaks for a bit and that’s when I decided I was just gonna modify the skid plate to hold the heat shield. Since my skid plate is off now, my heat shield is off as well since it serves no purpose.
And yes, still awaiting pictures although I have to head out of town for a bit so Victory is gonna sit. Ugh
So, I took it back off knowing I wanted to observe for leaks for a bit and that’s when I decided I was just gonna modify the skid plate to hold the heat shield. Since my skid plate is off now, my heat shield is off as well since it serves no purpose.
And yes, still awaiting pictures although I have to head out of town for a bit so Victory is gonna sit. Ugh
@Jwestpro helped me with pictures he sent me for getting a 100ah Group 31 stuffed into my LR3. This link may help from my project: https://www.expeditionportal.com/fo...tery-location-in-the-lr3.154841/#post-2033656
Victory_Overland
Explorer
@perkj thanks for the link. I am not sold yet on the Odyssey 2150 now that everyone has me scared on the charging profile!!!!! lol I have an Odyssey 1350 in the primary now with no issues and I like it as it whips right up, especially when at full charge amps.
I've been reading up on the Northstar batteries and they seem legit and very popular in the marine world with tons of accolades. I'm all about anyone offering up the battery options, I do know I want a minimum of a 100ah battery and willing to move and cut whatever I need to in order to get it stuffed in the auxiliary spot. If I can go bigger, I will as I want to maximize power and plan to be in the 270w range with solar between the roof mount and suitcase portable options.
I've been reading up on the Northstar batteries and they seem legit and very popular in the marine world with tons of accolades. I'm all about anyone offering up the battery options, I do know I want a minimum of a 100ah battery and willing to move and cut whatever I need to in order to get it stuffed in the auxiliary spot. If I can go bigger, I will as I want to maximize power and plan to be in the 270w range with solar between the roof mount and suitcase portable options.
From what I understand, the Northstar batteries have the same charging profile as an Odyssey, i.e. 14.7V absorption. This is why I opted for the Deka Intimidator AGMs as they have a more normal charging profile (i.e. 14.4 absorption if I recall correctly). The Deka also is a bit easier on the wallet.