Propane Question: Stove won’t work when Furnace is on?

ChasingOurTrunks

Well-known member
HI folks,

The short version of a long story is I’m blissfully calling an 18 foot RV “home” for the foreseeable future due to some positive changes in my employment - I got a great new job in a wonderful community, and so we’re doing the “RV Life” thing until we can afford a bit of property. We are in an Open Range 185BH, which is a great little “tiny home” for our needs, but I’ve spent the last 20 years in various versions of tents so this is all new to me.

It’s got a propane furnace and a two-burner propane stove, and thus begins my question: When the furnace is on (even with just the blower which happens pre-ignition and once the trailer is up to temperature), the burners on the stove don’t really work. More specifically, it looks like the flames of the burners are being sucked down into the stove. It’s no big deal - we can just kill the furnace when we are cooking - but having never had this experience before, I’m not sure what is considered “normal”. I can also fix it by opening the cabinet drawer as both the stove top and the furnace are in the same cabinet unit; once that “vaccuum” is broken with an open door, the flame goes back to normal.

This is a new trailer, so its got a warranty and all that good stuff, so I was wondering - is this normal to have to do this cabinet-door game to make the stove and furnace work at the same time?

Here’s a picture of what I’m seeing, first with our normal, healthy flame:

6883E701-8DC6-43CA-9301-DCC61D25B6FD.jpeg

And here’s what it looks like when the furnace fan kicks in:

EBF7946F-B5FE-4BFC-B8C1-C239568E8651.jpeg

When I open a cabinet door the flame goes back to picture 1. I can probably fix this by drilling some holes in the cabinets but that seems a shame on a brand new rig, and I’d hate to come up with an interim solution if the furnace is supposed to be sucking air from elsewhere or something is wrong with how it’s set up. As comfy as I find this trailer and this way of living, it confirms all my prior opinions of these mass-produced RVs; they are cheaply made and poorly finished - so while I wouldn’t be surprised if this is just ‘normal’, I’d also not be surprised if something was installed incorrectly or haphazardly and needs some attention. So I turn to this group who has forgotten more than I’ll ever know about these kinds of things for advice!

And yes, that is a JetBoil Genesis in the back of the stove; we’ve been using that from time to time instead of the burners because of this issue. Candidly, it works WAY better than the built-in burner and I’m tempted to just replace the whole thing with a compatible hose and use that instead! Honestly, its the best stove I’ve ever used - house or camping - and almost worth the crazy price I paid for it. But I’d like to get my RV working as it should before permanent mods.
 

Buddha.

Finally in expo white.
I’ve seen this where the furnace is mounted directly below the stovetop. For some reason the manufacturer didn’t properly vent the cabinet that the furnace is in and the furnace is drawing its makeup air through the stove top.
I would take a hole saw and cut a hole in the side of the cabinet to let more air in. If the hole can be hidden in a storage compartment that’s preferable although you may have to leave the door to that area cracked open a little when cooking.
If the hole is in a visible location I’d size it for some kind of vent cover to give it a more finished look.
Don’t drill into the side of the furnace’s steel sheet metal case. Just the wood cabinet it’s in.
 

ChasingOurTrunks

Well-known member
Thanks very much, @Verkstad -- i will call the Dealership and ask them exactly as you describe, and omit the "I fixed it" part. I'll also tear into the user manuals to see about the sealed vs unsealed stovetop. You hit on exactly why I was asking the question - my spidey sense was tingling on the potential safety issues, like turning a cabinet into a bomb inside our trailer. We can cook outside until I have a solution for it.

@Buddha. good tip on drilling a hole in the cabinet; that was my thought as well and use a vent cover to make it look finished. That's what I will do once the dealer weighs in and I've had a chance to review the user manuals.

Thanks gents, I appreciate the help!
 

Todd780

OverCamper
Huh. I'm curious to try this in our trailer to see if it does the same.

No clue as we've never used the stove or oven in it since we do all our cooking outside.

I do know that starting the oven does require igniting a pilot light where turning on our furnace or hot water heater does not.

Not sure if that would be a factor.
 

ChasingOurTrunks

Well-known member
I think our hot water heater is over under the bunks; it's a dual fuel version that can either do propane or electric, but I've never tried it on propane and I kinda want to replace it with an on demand system as it seems super small and is not enough for even a modest length of shower. I've even after I replaced the showerhead with one with a toggle valve on it to kill the water flow, and I get get a "good enough" shower out of it, but an on-demand infinite system would be preferable. I've even thought of swapping to a recirculating shower just so I can go have "spa day" in the RV but that might be more than I want to do!

We don't have the oven so no pilot lights for us - just a "push and hold while turning" peizo ignitor for the two burner stovetop elements.

If you do end up giving it a shot, let me know how it goes and if you have a similar experience as us!
 

Alloy

Well-known member
The furnace mfg. will have a spec sheet/install manual detailing the amount of venting the furnace needs. It will be bigger than a couple 1 1/2 holes.

On the flip side of I've seen air ducts that blow warm air into the return air. The furnaces are only 60% efficient. They don't need to be made worse. Something to be aware of (or talk to the dealer about) when deciding on where to cut the opening(s)

Might be something to let RVIA know about.
 

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