proper length Hi-Lift jack
- Thread starter psuclam
- Start date
IdaSHO
IDACAMPER
I've had a 48" high lift for 25+ years now.
Never have I been in a place where I thought a longer one would do me any good...
Your question brings up a decent question for me though.
When DO you need a 60" ? I imagine the one of the only places it could be justified is winching, allowing a longer pull before resetting.
Never have I been in a place where I thought a longer one would do me any good...
Your question brings up a decent question for me though.
When DO you need a 60" ? I imagine the one of the only places it could be justified is winching, allowing a longer pull before resetting.
LandCruiserPhil
Expedition Leader
Unless you have upgraded your bumpers its pretty much worthless carry a Hi-Lift. With aftermarket bumpers I see no reason for anything more than a 48".
DaveInDenver
Middle Income Semi-Redneck
I disagree Phil, those wheel straps make a Hi-Lift useful (or better said 'useable') on just about anything. I'd say that is probably the best way to use them anyway.
I have a 48" Hi-Lift and have had it close to the top stacking rocks, so a 60" would in theory be better. Not better enough for me to replace mine. And truth even at 48" they are pretty tippy to the point that I doubt I'd want to go any higher anyway. Used for winching or pulling that extra foot might make it 3% less painful, though.
I have a 48" Hi-Lift and have had it close to the top stacking rocks, so a 60" would in theory be better. Not better enough for me to replace mine. And truth even at 48" they are pretty tippy to the point that I doubt I'd want to go any higher anyway. Used for winching or pulling that extra foot might make it 3% less painful, though.
robert
Expedition Leader
I've had a 48" since 1986 and the only time the 60" might have been handy was when using it as a winch- and a Hi-Lift is so ungainly as a winch in my opinion that it probably would have just been a bigger PITA. I'll take the easier handling of the 48". And yeah, you really need aftermarket bumpers and preferably some sliders to use one on modern vehicles.
Only thing on the size debate that concerns me is weight. Considering both lengths, I would go with the 60 (which I did) as I can't believe it weights much more.
Regarding length....since theses stay pretty much stowed (as pointed out by others) for 99% time, it doesn't really affect me too much.
Much more benefit w/o that much penalty. (I have these debates all the time....check out tent thread....). Safe over (too) sorry any day.
Regarding length....since theses stay pretty much stowed (as pointed out by others) for 99% time, it doesn't really affect me too much.
Much more benefit w/o that much penalty. (I have these debates all the time....check out tent thread....). Safe over (too) sorry any day.
FJOE
Regular Dude
I disagree Phil, those wheel straps make a Hi-Lift useful (or better said 'useable') on just about anything. I'd say that is probably the best way to use them anyway.
I have a 48" Hi-Lift and have had it close to the top stacking rocks, so a 60" would in theory be better. Not better enough for me to replace mine. And truth even at 48" they are pretty tippy to the point that I doubt I'd want to go any higher anyway. Used for winching or pulling that extra foot might make it 3% less painful, though.
I would agree. It works great with the wheel straps. With proper accessories, it becomes a great spreader, clamp, and a decent winch as well. Back when this was just a piece of gear in the back of a farmer's pickup (the original "farm jack") people used it for all kinds of things.
Crom
Expo this, expo that, exp
The correct answer to the OP's question is: it depends. lol
I personally think that the 48" is fine. It's easy to strap an axle to stop the suspension from drooping out.
The longer hi-lift can help if your winching as was pointed out earlier. It can also help if high centered on tall lifted vehicles. Good to point out that abouve 48" the load rating is reduced on that section of the beam. The 60" is heavier, and more cumbersome to move around and store.
How does this work on a tire that won't hold air or has been destroyed? :sombrero:
I helped a TUndra owner a few weeks ago change this bad boy out.
It was at that time I realized that the Lift-Mate probably only works on tires that still have air in them.
I personally think that the 48" is fine. It's easy to strap an axle to stop the suspension from drooping out.
The longer hi-lift can help if your winching as was pointed out earlier. It can also help if high centered on tall lifted vehicles. Good to point out that abouve 48" the load rating is reduced on that section of the beam. The 60" is heavier, and more cumbersome to move around and store.
I disagree Phil, those wheel straps make a Hi-Lift useful (or better said 'useable') on just about anything. I'd say that is probably the best way to use them anyway.
I have a 48" Hi-Lift and have had it close to the top stacking rocks, so a 60" would in theory be better. Not better enough for me to replace mine. And truth even at 48" they are pretty tippy to the point that I doubt I'd want to go any higher anyway. Used for winching or pulling that extra foot might make it 3% less painful, though.
How does this work on a tire that won't hold air or has been destroyed? :sombrero:
I helped a TUndra owner a few weeks ago change this bad boy out.
It was at that time I realized that the Lift-Mate probably only works on tires that still have air in them.
BigSwede
The Credible Hulk
^^^ this
I think the answer to the OPs question is this:
Figure out where your jack points are
determine how much lift you need to get a tire off the ground using those points
buy that length of jack.
It might require using a buddy's jack to do the test.
I've had several rigs that had enough suspension travel to top out a 48" jack without ever lifting a wheel. Yes, you can strap the axle, but what if you are jacking in mud? I'm not wallering in that mess to strap an axle. The only times I have used a high lift offroad was to extract a vehicle, and that usually meant getting something solid under a tire. I used one once to winch, and man, they make a lousy winch! I've never used one to change a tire, and wouldn't. Some form of axle jack is infinitely better for that.
Figure out where your jack points are
determine how much lift you need to get a tire off the ground using those points
buy that length of jack.
It might require using a buddy's jack to do the test.
I've had several rigs that had enough suspension travel to top out a 48" jack without ever lifting a wheel. Yes, you can strap the axle, but what if you are jacking in mud? I'm not wallering in that mess to strap an axle. The only times I have used a high lift offroad was to extract a vehicle, and that usually meant getting something solid under a tire. I used one once to winch, and man, they make a lousy winch! I've never used one to change a tire, and wouldn't. Some form of axle jack is infinitely better for that.
Since the 60 inch doesn't cost significantly more, get that, and cut off the part you don't need. Seriously, nothing wrong with a 56 inch hi-lift. Carry the maximum length you have room for.
I have needed the 60 inch length once.
The most important thing about a hi-lift is to not keep it on the outside of your truck permanently. Only mount it when wheeling, or for sure, the pins will be rusted and it won't work on that rare day when you need it. Bolting it down inside the truck is nice to make sure you never actually have to use yours, since it's such a pain to get to, and has to be assembled to actually use. Someone else will have one that's easier to get to. Plus, when you actually use it, and spray lube the mechanism with slippery stuff, and cover it in mud, do you really want to put it back inside your nice clean truck?
I have needed the 60 inch length once.
The most important thing about a hi-lift is to not keep it on the outside of your truck permanently. Only mount it when wheeling, or for sure, the pins will be rusted and it won't work on that rare day when you need it. Bolting it down inside the truck is nice to make sure you never actually have to use yours, since it's such a pain to get to, and has to be assembled to actually use. Someone else will have one that's easier to get to. Plus, when you actually use it, and spray lube the mechanism with slippery stuff, and cover it in mud, do you really want to put it back inside your nice clean truck?
BigSwede
The Credible Hulk
Shhhh, you're giving away the secret!
FJOE
Regular Dude
The neoprene sock for the mechanism did me a lot of good when mine was bolted to the roof rack.