Louisd75
Adventurer
Yup, I mistook that part. I was remembering the manual saying not to change the length when in reality it states that you can make them longer, up to 2m, and that the flue pipe should not be shorter than the combustion air pipe.
Propex HS2000
- Thread starter Obsessed2findARuggedHybid
- Start date
Yup, I mistook that part. I was remembering the manual saying not to change the length when in reality it states that you can make them longer, up to 2m, and that the flue pipe should not be shorter than the combustion air pipe.
Obsessed2findARuggedHybid
Well-known member
Nopec again thanks for your help. I am 99% sure the thermostat was hooked up as I was at my trailer s manufacturering plant and they could not get it to fire up at all due to fuse being out. Stopped in at propex dealer in Fort Collins and replaced fuse and she fired up and ignited and my current issues started happening. I can re set the error code by turning on and off. I have the non digital thermostat. If there was an issue with thermostat would I be able to clear the code like that?
So I attached the new 48" ss Inlet and exhaust lines with high altitude cap on intake. Still getting code. Next step bump up pressure. I un screwed cap on regulator pulled out my flat head screw driver thinking maybe one full turn would get it to 14" water collum. But I ran into this. Must need a special tool
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Louisd75
Adventurer
That's different. If you have large enough screw driver you could probably get it to fit between the splines. Or maybe a pair of needle nose vice grips and a washer.
NOPEC
Well-known member
Wow, am I ever getting an education during this exchange! I just took as gospel all of the stuff about the combustion pipe dimension in the Propex manuals, I didn't know there was a Propex muffler (would have thought that it would have messed with the backpressure) didn't know about the high altitude endcap (of course I don't live in Colorado..) and I thought that LPG regulators were fixed at a specific WC rating (would that be a regulated regulator?
) except those that are designed to be variable.
NOPEC
Well-known member
I can't remember if you mentioned this but did you actually initially test your outflow pressure with a WC" gauge? Interesting about adjusting what I always thought was an non-adjustable regulator. In the spirit of spitballing your problem and not to throw rocks at your equipment but I did read somewhere lately that CAMCO regulators don't have the best reputation for longevity but hey, that was on the internet so who knows?
I have the same thermostat as you and the only code I ever got with it was a low fuel supply code when I tried to fire it up without turning on the tank. It cleared with the usual on/off sequence and never came back as long as it had gas. The mystery continues...
Louisd75
Adventurer
Wow, am I ever getting an education during this exchange! I just took as gospel all of the stuff about the combustion pipe dimension in the Propex manuals, I didn't know there was a Propex muffler (would have thought that it would have messed with the backpressure) didn't know about the high altitude endcap (of course I don't live in Colorado..) and I thought that LPG regulators were fixed at a specific WC rating (would that be a regulated regulator?
The regulator that came with my Propex is adjustable and the adjustment process was in the book that came with it. I ordered my furnace kit through a Vanagon shop in Oregon, I believe they were out of La Pine but it's been a while.
The muffler isn't an official Propex part, it's a scooter muffler. Van Cafe has put together a kit but it's also pretty easy to DIY: https://vancafe.com/propex-stealth-kit-for-hs2000/
I've never felt that the exhaust sound was all that loud with my trailer. I certainly can't hear it over the sound of the air coming out of the vents when the furnace is running. I camped with friends who slept in a tent about 20' from my trailer and in a direct line from the exhaust and they told me that they didn't notice it running. They may have been polite or they may have been exhausted from camping with two energetic kids. I also don't usually run it for long when we're not in the trailer. I'll fire it up for a few minutes when we stop for the night, just to make sure that we're not going to have any issues, then I'll bump up the thermostat about 20 minutes before we start winding down for the night to warm the space up.
For the vent noise I mentioned above, I found that the acoustical ducting does make a difference, though my duct run is pretty short and I think there would be more improvement over a longer run and having more outlet vents. I only have one inlet and one outlet right now but I think that two outlet vents would slow the airflow down and reduce the noise.
Obsessed2findARuggedHybid
Well-known member
Okay here is were my ignorance as been exposed. My Rv mechanic has been playing around with different wc pressures to deal with the propex , truma auqua go comfort water heater and my dometic d21 cooktop. Which T off the propex gas line. I assumed he was measuring and adjusting the wc from this regulator but like you said it's not adjustable. This regulator was a replacement from a defective one so maybe that's what he was talking about. I thought I could bump up the pressure I bit but I guess I can't. You see any reasons not to run water heater and cooktop on same propane gas line and regulator?
Louisd75
Adventurer
You may have just nailed the issue.
You'll need to double check these numbers, but here are some WC numbers that I've been able to find online:
The Truma Aqua Go: 10.5" WC
Propex HS2000: 30mBar (12" WC) to 37mBar (14.8" WC). They do have a 50mBar version (20" WC) but I don't see anything describing how to tell them apart. Note, that info comes from the Canadian manual. VanCafe says they've found 11.5" to be the best setting for Propex and that's what they set theirs at.
Dometic D21, I couldn't easily find any information other than to test the gas connection above 13.9" WC which would imply a working pressure below 13.9"
Again, I'd double check whatever literature you have to make sure but I think it's possible that you're in a situation where your gas pressure is fine for your water heater and cooktop but not enough for for the Propex. You may need a regulator off of the bottle set for the Propex and then another regulator at a lower pressure going to the Truma and Dometic.
Obsessed2findARuggedHybid
Well-known member
NOPEC
Well-known member
I don't know, sounds like a lot of faffing around to have two regulators on the go.
To me, and we are maybe starting to go around in a circle here but I would work on the Propex heater by itself at this point, as it seems to be the picky one. I would suggest, however you do it, to get a steady (checked by gauge) 14 inches of WC to the unit via it's own line. If it works well and continually with this setup, then you can suspect it was most likely the lower pressure of the CAMCO regulator that was the problem or less likely, the multiple appliances on one line. If it doesn't work with this "perfect" setup, then there is an issue somewhere else. (either with the software or hardware of the unit itself or back to the combustion intake/exhaust). I don't know how picky the Truma is about WC pressure (recommended verse real) but I am certain the stove top will be the least concerned about it, I imagine simply reflecting WC pressure by flame output.
As I mentioned before and as far as I know, the recommended method of running lines is one line/one appliance from a manifold located immediately after the regulator. I don't know if this is just some arbitrary rule for safety (presumed or otherwise) or maybe there is perhaps a potential performance issue created by running multiples on a single line (I don't know enough to understand why that would be...) but for my money, I think you should absolutely cut one snakes head off before moving to the next. Sorry this might be starting to sound a little preachy, it is not meant to be.......
NOPEC
Well-known member
Very interesting, thanks for sharing these Propex goodies. As I mentioned, didn't know about any of them.
We are the same as you regarding the ducting and exhaust noise. I think they are both kinda nice, gives one that good feeling that all is well and the world is warming up (inside the camper that is...). The outside noise is pretty minimal and as we are usually out in the sticks, generally isn't a bother to anyone.
Again like you, we get the place nice and toasty and then shut everything down. Being light sleepers, we also shut down the fridge due to a very slight harmonic buzz when the compressor kicks on. We usually have lots of windows open and good bedding and if it is really cold, one of us (me) will get up and run the furnace to bring it back up. Really, a thermostat is wasted on us as we control the heater directly...
Obsessed2findARuggedHybid
Well-known member
Louis thx for this as this is exactly what I decided to do. To keep it simple I will just connect the existing gas line that goes to the furnace and by pass it off of my existing regulator and one of my viking tanks. Then off my second tank I will run a Regulator1Fairview Fittings GR-9959 Dual Stage Propane regulator calibrate to 14 " wc to propex. Also I will run my Inlet and exhaust lines parallel (this will help in windy situations) and make sure to separate then by 12 inches or so at ends. ?
DonBeasley
Adventurer
Just thought I would add my 2 cents on propex. My setup is a 2211 that I side on top of my trailer top and pipes into my rooftop tent. I had the issue of the unit cycling on then going off and getting a code. Also it would cyle on and then in a minute go off. I would run diagnostics reset code and it would do it again. Never could get consistent heat. I am plugging into a 12v outlet on trailer tongue box.
After several calls I talked to US tech and when he heard that unit plugged into a 12v socket on trailer tongue box with a deep cycle battery inside he gave me the part number for a very small DC-DC inline converter that went between battery connection and 12v outlet. Have not had any problems since.
After several calls I talked to US tech and when he heard that unit plugged into a 12v socket on trailer tongue box with a deep cycle battery inside he gave me the part number for a very small DC-DC inline converter that went between battery connection and 12v outlet. Have not had any problems since.
I fought for quite a while trying to remedy error codes for my HS2000 "in a toolbox" ... and then I purchased a Manometer, and set the bar levels to exactly what Propex requires in their manual, after which all the error codes simply vanished.
IMO, and based on experience ... (and accepting that you could just get lucky) generally speaking it's difficult (impossible?) to install a Propex HS2000 in a DYI scenario without the benefit of a Manometer.
IMO, and based on experience ... (and accepting that you could just get lucky) generally speaking it's difficult (impossible?) to install a Propex HS2000 in a DYI scenario without the benefit of a Manometer.
Obsessed2findARuggedHybid
Well-known member
I ended up buying a new regulator the was calibrated to 15" wc. Plus we checked with manometer. Propex themselves says it should run fine at 11-12 wc regardless of what is stamped on thier heater. Which is wierd. Anyway still getting code. It has to be internal. Thank you.