Pulled the trigger
- Thread starter nathane
- Start date
That's very shinyDid you sample some of the cake shops in Bentham? There seem to be more than the size of town should be able to support! Pennine Outdoor on the High Street made us some nice spare tyre covers too.
Then more stuff then:
No intercooler? Claas? You know you really need a centrally mounted Rotzler obviously?!
Thanks Grizzly.
No cake yet, must try some next visit in June to work through some of the spec questions!
I spotted penning last time and must drop in. I used to mail order goretex from them in the 80s to make my own mountaineering gear cos north face etc was too pricey!
Thanks for comments, all helpful although I have to say I have absolutely no idea what the last bit means? Engine is intercooled it beyond that class and rozlers are unknown territory - happy to learn though.
Thanks for the insight, it's helpful. On reflection I think I am going to try without initially. This may prove to be a mistake but I hope we can match seasons/travel to avoid the need.
Thank you, I have to say that admittedly as a newbie to mogs the folks at AV look like they do a fantastic job of renovating these vehicles.
When you see the work in progress in the workshop and the attention to detail they have it's great. They have been a pleasure to work with and whilst you could obviously pay less buying direct from military sales etc I'm not in a position to do the work myself to make this possible.
Jostt
Adventurer
For sure ...I understand not all the people has time to do like they make, by the job and the space, in my case the Atention even by mail , because Im in Spain , was fantástic, good luck whit your project , keep It working..
I've been working on my box design and having got frustrated trying to make a cad package work I resorted to building a 1/10 scale model in balsa wood!
This has been a really useful exercise as I've really clearly been able to work out things like placement of critical components, windows etc. It's also quite fun model making.
So here's a quick question for you all about departure angle that resulted from the work. Ideally I don't want a cut off back to increase storage capacity. However, a rectangular box will give me a reduced departure angle of 37 degrees (1.2m ground clearance and 1.8m overhang from axle line when horizontal). With a 3.7m wheelbase I think this means the front wheels would have to be 2m higher than the rear to ground out so I can't imagine it being a problem, but am I missing something? How many of you have ever been in unavoidable situations where you have needed >37 deg?
All the best
Nathan
This has been a really useful exercise as I've really clearly been able to work out things like placement of critical components, windows etc. It's also quite fun model making.
So here's a quick question for you all about departure angle that resulted from the work. Ideally I don't want a cut off back to increase storage capacity. However, a rectangular box will give me a reduced departure angle of 37 degrees (1.2m ground clearance and 1.8m overhang from axle line when horizontal). With a 3.7m wheelbase I think this means the front wheels would have to be 2m higher than the rear to ground out so I can't imagine it being a problem, but am I missing something? How many of you have ever been in unavoidable situations where you have needed >37 deg?
All the best
Nathan
Sitec
Adventurer
Hi Nathan. Mog approach and departure angles are ridiculously good. Only you can really answer that question, as only you know where you are planning to go... If you are going to do some serious rock hopping and creek crossings, then it might touch, but if it's a tourer with the ability to go bush, then it would prob be fine... I think it'll still have more clearance than most being a Mog.. Mine won't have that much as the body is 6m long, but I'm planning to make a tapered rear bumper setup which acts as a skid should I ever find myself in that situation. On the rare occasion that I do, I wouldn't enter anything that I couldnt drive out of. There's always the option of a bit of impromptu track building too... Remember, pictures tell a thousand words.... Attached is my original sketch 'plan'.. That's now changed as I found a 6m body that came with Air Con etc!
Remember, pictures tell a thousand words.... Attached is my original sketch 'plan'.. That's now changed as I found a 6m body that came with Air Con etc!Attachments
Sitec
Adventurer
IMO the taper looks better, and where it is you wouldn't loose too much space under the seating area... (but if you are dropping into a hole that deep you'd want to know you can get back out...
)You could always add a roof storage box above the cab which matches in with the body.. Loving the model of the body. And usage wise you're right, this is not going to be a rock crawling technical offroader (I have my defender for that), but a bush tourer for an aging softy who after 50 years of staying in a tent fancies a few comforts with the capability to manage the odd wash or creek crossing
Sitec
Adventurer
Two triangular lockers behind the back wheels following the line of the rear box taper wouldn't look out of place either.. The bottom corner of 'said new box' would then form the base line point for side skirts protecting the tanks if you're planning them... Print off those drawings and draw over them in pencil.. Might help... I have a habit of drawing something that looks right then scaling it into reality!
The people who built our new box quoted for an angled back end and a sloping front above the cab too (better mpg suggested for that part) but I thought the cost wasn't worth it.
Also, how are you going to mount your two (?) spare tyres? AV built a chassis extension so we could put one tyre plus wheel on that at the back, but then just a second tyre only on the back wall of the camper itself. This did reduce the departure angle but also protected the camper bottom corner edge.
Once you start working out the volume required for the stuff you're taking, plus fresh and used fluids, you may install lockers as Sitec suggests and then some
Also, how are you going to mount your two (?) spare tyres? AV built a chassis extension so we could put one tyre plus wheel on that at the back, but then just a second tyre only on the back wall of the camper itself. This did reduce the departure angle but also protected the camper bottom corner edge.
Once you start working out the volume required for the stuff you're taking, plus fresh and used fluids, you may install lockers as Sitec suggests and then some
Grenadiers
Adventurer
For air conditioning, we rolled the dice on a $479 US RolliCool unit from RolliBot, the makers of those little automatic vacuum cleaners. A ductless a/c unit, with the refrigerant lines and electrical connected between the outdoor unit, and the indoor unit. Like any cheap setup, the long-term reliability is questionable, but for the price, worth it to us. We haven't put it through a long-term test as our winter vacations have been mild. In the driveway, while working on the vehicle last summer, it cooled off our cabin very well. This summer, however, will be a better test while we travel.
Attachments
On the spare tyres I'm thinking between on the cab roof or at the back of the chassis.
I think I will probably trade in the existing subframe/flatbed for a frame designed to meet the specific needs of the hab unit. This will enable us to mount the hab a little lower but also build wheel mounts or as you suggest rear storage boxes in.
That bit will be decided June 15th.
I think I will probably trade in the existing subframe/flatbed for a frame designed to meet the specific needs of the hab unit. This will enable us to mount the hab a little lower but also build wheel mounts or as you suggest rear storage boxes in.
That bit will be decided June 15th.