Putting POWER to the trailer.

Backroad Explorer

Adventurer
Craig is the white wire on the upper right the ground & the wire with the blue connector lower right the hot wire? If so there lies your problem!
 

Dirtytires

Explorer
Brian ,
The yellow wire is the one that I used for grounding the fuse panel. I think I need to remove that wire completly!
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
Okay...


That fuse block does not have a bus bar.

To explain what I mean, here's a fuse block with a bus bar:

fuseblock-3.jpg

In the pic above, the hot comes in to the screw on the top in the middle. That is the end of the bus bar. The bus bar runs down the middle. Each fuse, has one end connected to the bus bar.

So the power comes in, runs through the bus bar, through the fuses, and out the 6 terminals.


The fuse block pictured on the trailer doesn't work that way. It has no bus bar. Each fuse slot, is separate.

You have to run 7 hot wires in, to feed the 7 fuses, and then 7 wires out, to feed the circuits. Or, on the bottom, where the hot comes in, you need to jump from the hot on the first screw, to the next screw, to the next, to the next, to feed the 7 fuses, and then you use 7 wires out the top to feed circuits.


By connecting the hot to the bottom of Slot 1, and the negative to the top of Slot 1 - you have just created a dead short waiting to happen. As soon as you stick the fuse in, iit's going to burn. You have literally wired the + and the - to each other.


No negatives should be connected to that fuse block. 7 hots in to feed the 7 fuses, and 7 hots out of the fuses.

The negatives have to all be tied together somewhere else.


Some fuse blocks have the hot bus bar, AND a separate place to tie all the negatives together:

BlueSeaFuseBox.jpg

The fuse block in this pic has a bus bar for the hot - the incoming hot wire from the battery goes to the big central screw on the left. That feeds the fuses, which feed the loads.

Then it also has a negative bus bar. The negative from the battery connects to the big central screw on the right, and all the negatives from the loads go into those screws on the right end of the fuse block.
 
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Backroad Explorer

Adventurer
I'm with dwh. Buy a new Fuse Panel at your local Parts Store like the ones in dwh's pics and your problem will be solved.

N.A.P.A. Auto Parts Pt #782-3205 as an example
fusepanel.jpg


They also come in 4 or 6 gang also.
 

Dirtytires

Explorer
I went and purchased this one for now..
fuseblock-3.jpg


At least I will be able to have the lights and water pump funtionable
until I can get the big money setup installed..:)

Thanks for all the help fellows..


Craig
 

youwillforget

Adventurer
what became of the old one? I am pretty sure every one missed what it is. it is used to protect vehicle through the 7 way trailer plug. if you fuse all the circuts on the trailer with low fuses they would blow first and your TV lighst continue to work.
 

Dirtytires

Explorer
^^What are you talking about? The box was never wired to work. The trailer is a four prong.. The driving lights and markers are controlled through the truck
pigtail.. Everything else will be controlled be the Marine Battery on the front of the trailer.
 

youwillforget

Adventurer
Post #15 "The fuse panel" looks like a product I have seen in the past used to protect the 7 pin RV style connection to the TV. Hidden Hitch 38656 is a non fused version of the junction box.
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
^^What are you talking about? The box was never wired to work. The trailer is a four prong.. The driving lights and markers are controlled through the truck pigtail.. Everything else will be controlled be the Marine Battery on the front of the trailer.

Easy there hot rod. He is right.

That 7 slot fuse block is normally used exactly as he said. The wires from a 7 pin trailer plug go into one side, and the wires out to the trailer's lights on the other side. By using a fuse rated lower than the fuse in the truck, if a trailer light shorts and blows a fuse, it'll blow the fuse in the trailer's fuse block and not the fuse to the truck's lights.

I didn't say anything about it, because I could see from your photos that you weren't using it for that purpose.

But now that I think about it...

You could go ahead and use it the same way - but of course, you'd only use 4 of the fuse slots instead of 7. (Actually, 3 I suppose...)


(That would be separate from the electrical accessories wiring that you are installing with the bus bar fuse block...)
 
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Dirtytires

Explorer
Easy there hot rod. He is right.

That 7 slot fuse block is normally used exactly as he said. The wires from a 7 pin trailer plug go into one side, and the wires out to the trailer's lights on the other side. By using a fuse rated lower than the fuse in the truck, if a trailer light shorts and blows a fuse, it'll blow the fuse in the trailer's fuse block and not the fuse to the truck's lights.

I didn't say anything about it, because I could see from your photos that you weren't using it for that purpose.

But now that I think about it...

You could go ahead and use it the same way - but of course, you'd only use 4 of the fuse slots instead of 7. (Actually, 3 I suppose...)


(That would be separate from the electrical accessories wiring that you are installing with the bus bar fuse block...)

Apoligies.. and now you share this wealth of information with me!! Thank you kindly.. I shall use this for my further adventures and knowledge. :)
 

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