Question for Suburban owners?!

[Land Runner]

I am considering making a big swap this weekend from my 95 Range Rover Classic to a late 80s model 2500 Suburban! Much easier to find parts and no crazy British electronics. With that said, I have a little concern about the length on the trail due to trees, tight turns etc. amd am just wanting to get some realistic feedback from real folks! Thanks ahead of time and it is greatly appreciated.

 

[1leglance]

Well I live in the desert southwest so not much experience in tight forest trails that you might have....but never any trouble for me.
I am usually more concerned about my departure angle than anything else. A mild lift is often enough for most folks.
On my rear bumper build I plan to use some RV rollers or something to help with rocks and washouts so I can slide right down

 

[Erik N]

I own a '88 V20. Completely stock. She is is like a big, ugly, billy-goat friend. Goes about anywhere. Turns tight enough, Enough clearance. Enough room. Comfortable enough. Her size fits common trails, other that the little bitty ATV ones. Built like a brick ******thouse with her big axles, big springs, big frame. Not too heavy really, in comparison (5900# wet). She's been beaten by misjudgement many times (rocky, narrowing, animal trail mistakes, all while hoping for a nonexistant intersection or turnaround point), yet she comes back for more each time. Part are cheap and available everywhere. She starts year after every year, despite sitting alone under a tree by herself 50 weeks at a time. She is a forgiving, capable partner. I love that ugly **********.

My '96 2500 454 is ponderous and piggish in comparison.

Never been in a LR/RR though. But I always thought that if those Afrikaneers had access to Suburbans, then they would drive those instead.

 

[Land Runner]

http://memphis.craigslist.org/cto/4006043939.html

She is a beast! If I pull the trigger I will name her "Black Betty" as I always loved that song!

 

[Erik N]

http://memphis.craigslist.org/cto/4006043939.html

She is a beast! If I pull the trigger I will name her "Black Betty" as I always loved that song!

9" lift? My advice is to get a stock, unlifted one. Better steering radius and road manners. By the late 80's, GM had the truck figured out and relatively perfected IMO.

That is, unless you want to hog out mud pits. Then go get what you think is best.

 

[sean257]

I have a CJ7 and a box Suburban, and I drive through the trees. Obviously a world of difference. On the Suburban, I have already knocked off one of the mirrors, dented the drivers side back door, and the drivers side rear on trees. I have to make four point turns where I could just U-turn the jeep. On the + side there is a lot more capacity.

 

[98dango]

The 9" lift is a bit much but I would bet its by a 6" spring lift and a 3" body. If this is the case I would drop the body lift and rock it . I have taken a fullsize truck every where I took my jeeps.

I think you will be very happy.

 

[plumber mike]

The gas tank is the most vulnerable IMO. The hitch protects it pretty well but it can/will get dented. I'd like to know of a good skidplate available for the sub gas tank. If I have to make one I think I am going to cut the floor and raise the whole tank to the frame rail level. Mine has always let me know well in advance if it needs repair and parts prices and selection are tremendous, plus a whole bunch of good "free" mods off the net. Living in BFE, SD a domestic vehicle is almost mandatory for parts availability as compared to the Japanese or British offerings.
Myself personally, I would avoid the tailgate models and the auto trannys.

Best of luck and post pics if you get it.
Mostly relegated to chores and expeditions to town

 

[Land Runner]

If part of thw lift is a body lift, the plan will be to remove that portion. 9" is a bit extreme in the lift dept.

 

[Larry]

On my rear bumper build I plan to use some RV rollers or something to help with rocks and washouts so I can slide right down

I like that roller idea in theory but in reality rollers can cause harm than good. I’ve seen some large class C RV’s built on our chassis where the rollers have been completely ripped off frame or mounting plate leaving tears and gashes in frame rails, etc. Not only that, but the damage to whatever the roller contacted (curbs, rocks, etc.) can be pretty significant too. I would just let the fuel tank skid plate do what it was designed to do and rub once and a while.

If part of thw lift is a body lift, the plan will be to remove that portion. 9" is a bit extreme in the lift dept.

Indeed, 4” is about perfect for a Suburban. 9” has got to go. If you really think about it a Suburban is not that much different from regular cab pickup with an 8 ft. box. The ’73-‘91 Suburban body style actually has a 2” shorter wheelbase (129.5”) than a RCLB (131.5) but the overall bumper to bumper length is a little longer leaving a pretty long departure angle from the rear axle to the rear bumper. That bit of departure angle is where a modest lift really helps on a Suburban. All and all, Suburban’s are really not all that difficult to maneuver through tight obstacles but probably take some getting used to for people more accustom to wheeling little rigs like Jeeps and Rovers.

 

[bowstryder]

^^^^ x2 with what Larry said. I love driving mine whenever and where ever I can. Though I have to remember it's A LOT bigger than my zj.

 

[Land Runner]

I have found a different one that a friend of the family has and he is the original owner ! He owns one of the last real independent reputable repair shops in town. 4" lift, dana 60s and 454! Not the most efficient but as reliable if not more tnan the day it came off the production line. I just need to add ac! Anyone with experience in that dept?