Question on how batteries work in this ACR+Solar situation

[roverpat]

Got it. Thanks. The other thing I'm toying with is the ACR vs the DTEC 20a charger + smartpass. According to my research, the DTEC+smartpass is the right choice when 2 conditions are met: 1) you are using a larger deep cycle battery (like the Odyssey Group 31) and 2) the vehicle alternator does not pump out the needed 14.8+V

I don't know for sure what my alternator pumps out - as I'm currently in the middle of an engine rebuild - but I believe its ~13.8V at idle and 14.4V under high rpm. Its a 130A (stock Land Rover Discovery 2). So, it doesn't look like my vehicle is properly equipped to power a larger AGM deep cycle batt without the help of a DTEC DC-DC charger anyway. I realize that solar can help make up some of this.

And I want to run the ACR, not the DTEC. So... I think thats another vote for the LifePO4.

Is there any consensus on this forum as to quality Lithium batteries and suppliers? From searching, I can't seem to find much.

Maybe you know or do not know but you can put a P38 alternator in your D2 which is good for 150A. It is direct fit. Run with the 2 group 34 batteries and you will be fine. I had them in my D2 with a NL dual kit and had no problems.

 

[jeegro]

Maybe you know or do not know but you can put a P38 alternator in your D2 which is good for 150A. It is direct fit. Run with the 2 group 34 batteries and you will be fine. I had them in my D2 with a NL dual kit and had no problems.

Yes, I've heard about this. Perhaps an upgrade for later. Thanks!

The screws on the SunSaver MPPT 15 are 8-32, the lands are roughly 0.3125" wide.

I used 10AWG wire on mine, but you can get terminals that fit for 8AWG at Del City. The problem is their minimum is qty 50, so it would be about $15. But you'd have plenty to do and redo and redo and redo again.

https://www.delcity.net/catalogdetails?item=254085

If you can wait until this afternoon, I'll check to see if I have any that would work. I have a few bags of terminals at home and might have what you need. I know I have about 42 #8 terminals for 10AWG left.

Thanks Dave! After laying some things out, the SunSaver will likely be fitted in the rear of the vehicle. To minimize voltage drop across the ~14 foot run to the battery, I'm planning to fit a fuse panel in the rear with a heavy run (I have a lot of 2/0 welding cable laying around, but that might be too large to fit under the carpet side sills.. so maybe 2 or 4 awg). With the Sunsaver right next to the fuse panel, I can probably use standard 10 AWG #8 terminals into the fuse panel no problem.

I would like to keep the AUX battery negative circuits off of the frame and run wire instead for reliability and the battery monitor. Maybe I'll have 2 sets of power distribution blocks... one next to the batt and another under the glove box area so any cable runs inside the cab don't need to venture under the hood. This is because I have a 2nd fuse panel (4awg), inverter, and battery charger that need direct runs to the battery

 

[roverpat]

Theres not a lot of room under glove box but if you pull the foam block out next fuse block there is room there.

This is my blue sea fuse block and mohoo solar charge controller mounted in the left rear storage compartment in my LR3. If you have the rear storage vs 3rd row seats you could mount modules there. I did a 4 gauge run from second battery to the rear fuse block.

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