Question on mounting a solar panel...

[DaktariEd]

I have a Sunsei SE-1200 solar panel (part of my "winnings" from last year's ExPo Trophy...thanks Wil!).

I am thinking about mounting it to the roof of my Airland rooftop tent. The solar panel is rigid, approx 14" x 36", with a small mounting hole at each corner, which appears to be plastic. I may need to use something beefier, like a bracket...

If I mount it on the roof of the tent, I'd have to drill through the fiberglass. I was thinking about adding a fairly thick rubber washer at each corner to provide a bit of a "shock absorber" and lift the panel just off the surface, which may flex a little when the top is latched closed.

To make each hole water tight, I'd use silicone sealer between the washer and the fiberglass.

So...what do you think?

What are the pros or cons as you see them?

Thanks....

Ed :sombrero:

 

[Tucson T4R]

Sounds like a logical plan. I would add a fender washer over the rubber washer to spread the stress across the entire rubber washer and fiberglass.

 

[tdesanto]

I have a Sunsei SE-1200 solar panel (part of my "winnings" from last year's ExPo Trophy...thanks Wil!).

I am thinking about mounting it to the roof of my Airland rooftop tent. The solar panel is rigid, approx 14" x 36", with a small mounting hole at each corner, which appears to be plastic. I may need to use something beefier, like a bracket...

If I mount it on the roof of the tent, I'd have to drill through the fiberglass. I was thinking about adding a fairly thick rubber washer at each corner to provide a bit of a "shock absorber" and lift the panel just off the surface, which may flex a little when the top is latched closed.

To make each hole water tight, I'd use silicone sealer between the washer and the fiberglass.

So...what do you think?

What are the pros or cons as you see them?

Thanks....

Ed :sombrero:

I would recommend a rubber grommet if you really need the vibration dampening. Just get a grommet that fits around the bolt; the fender washer idea isn't bad either as an addtion.

Then marine grade silicon for sealing the holes from the elements.

 

[Grim Reaper]

drill the hold then seal the fibers with fiberglass epoxy, Use a "well nut" to mount it to the fiber glass. http://oemfasteningsystems.thomasnet.com/viewitems/pop/pop-well-nut-threaded-inserts?&forward=1

You will have to put a flat washer and sleeve on the bolt you use to make sure the well nut can tighten up without crushing the grommet you use for vibration.
The well nut will not need a sealer if you seal the fiberglass.

Silicone, bathtub calk is the DEVIL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Especially on aluminum and fiberglass. Never use it on anything but glass. Much better alternatives like Vulkem, parabond, Acryl-R.

 

[HenryJ]

How about using vibration isolation mounting hardware-

They can be sealed to the top. I don't remember exactly what size the studs were , that I used, probably #8 or #10. I bought them at my local TrueValue hardware store. They work really well. Use a little silicone or Permatex #2 to seal the holes.
I mounted an MSD ignition control upside down using them.

 

[elcoyote]

Ed,

The following gets my vote with fender washers sandwiching the fiberglass on your tent.

How about using vibration isolation mounting hardware-

They can be sealed to the top. I don't remember exactly what size the studs were , that I used, probably #8 or #10. I bought them at my local TrueValue hardware store. They work really well. Use a little silicone or Permatex #2 to seal the holes.
I mounted an MSD ignition control upside down using them.

 

[DaktariEd]

How about using vibration isolation mounting hardware-

They can be sealed to the top. I don't remember exactly what size the studs were , that I used, probably #8 or #10. I bought them at my local TrueValue hardware store. They work really well. Use a little silicone or Permatex #2 to seal the holes.
I mounted an MSD ignition control upside down using them.

I like that...I'll have to swing by TV or Ace Hardware as see if I can find them, plus some fender washers.
Thanks guys!
Just the kind of great help I need!

:sombrero:

 

[DaktariEd]

Silicone, bathtub calk is the DEVIL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Especially on aluminum and fiberglass. Never use it on anything but glass. Much better alternatives like Vulkem, parabond, Acryl-R.

Grim...
How so?
I am not familiar with those products.
I would think that a little clear silicone would work fine for sealing around the small holes...
How would silicone interact with fiberglass?

 

[Grim Reaper]

Grim...
How so?
I am not familiar with those products.
I would think that a little clear silicone would work fine for sealing around the small holes...
How would silicone interact with fiberglass?

Its DOW "betamaxing" the industry.
Clear silicone has a nasty habit of lifting off certain material like aluminum, fiberglass gelcoat and paints The products I listed are used in the RV industry because they are far superior to "silicone" They will stay stuck where silicone will not. Another that should be reasonably easy to find is Alcoa Gutter seal.


http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/category_s/24.htm

You can find those products at not box stores and Sometimes ACE. Sometimes some of the Vulkem/Trempro(part of Rustoleum conglomerates) at Home Depot and Lowe's.

 

[DaktariEd]

Great idea...I'll take a look when I try to find those vibration isolation doo-hickey's...

 

[Mike S]

Ed

Good advice here. Please post a photo and evaluation of the set-up when you have it done and a little use on it. I have thought of doing this to trickle charge the trailer batteries, but am not real confident of the drability of the panels currently offered.

How are you going to wire it up? Are you using a marine controller and wiring standards?

Mike S

 

[DaktariEd]

I currently plan to plug it in just when out camping....so the wiring will just hang off the unit and clip to the battery via...well...clips!
Yes, I do have a charge controller.

I'll try to remember some photos....
:sombrero: