Quick and easy mounting option for roof rack on shell

fourfa

Observer
I wanted to share my roof rack install on my 2005 Tacoma with Leer cap (180 something, mid-high shell).

Started with Yakima tracks, kit # 8001135
http://www.orsracksdirect.com/yakima-truck-rack-tracks-60inch.html
Drill through roof, install with tons of silicone sealant (already stayed dry inside through two days of rain). Take care to mount outboard as far as possible to miss the honeycombed center section if you have one. Stock the kit contains hardware for six thru-screws (10-32) per side, this could be increased to 9 with extra parts from Yakima (I plan to do this down the road for good measure - PN 8810155 $10). Each of the 12 inside mounts is a 1.5" round plastic hemisphere with steel threaded insert. These are actually handy for mounting hardware to the inside roof - for instance I'm going to hang a webbing 'shelf' for skis up there.

Megawarrior basket rack with extension kit (pretty ordinary, though I replaced the hardware with stainless screws and used nylock nuts and loctite)

Yakima expects you to buy tower kits and crossbars. Then, your roof basket ends up 4" elevated off the roof and puts more torque on the tracks. I found the tracks are just the right size for 3/8-16 carriage bolts (some were tight and had to be wiggled into place with pliers). The Megawarrior brackets are made for a very sloppy fit with 1/4-20 hardware. So I overdrilled for a tight fit for 3/8. The plastic lower bracket is easy. The steel upper bracket requires a drill press. Then the rack mounts directly to the tracks. I used nylocks and lock washers and 80 ft-lbs just for peace of mind.

The rack sits only 1" above the shell for less shear load, less frontal area and air drag. There is about 3/8" deflection with my 185 lbs bouncing dead center as far from the supports as possible. That said, I plan to add a third bracket kit in the middle as soon as I can get the parts from Yakima (PN 8870040), just for overkill. Likewise, the intended mounting has "ears" on the brackets to capture the main spars of the Megawarrior and prevent the rack shifting side-to-side. Once I tightened down the brackets, I could not get the rack to move with any amount of shoving. But this afternoon I'm making some swaged cables to connect each bracket to the nearby spar to prevent shifting (unless someone has a simpler idea?)

Photos:
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Comments welcome.
 
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fourfa

Observer
Forgot to add: the extended Megawarrior is just the right width for three MFC/MWCs flat side-by-side. Six go in front of the bar. Full-size spare aft of the bar, room for one duffel or whatnot to the side of the wheel..
 

frobuster

Observer
Slick, strong, good! Of course there could be some bowing in the center that could rub the top of the shell; but that's still just incredible for function, and looks great!
 

colodak

Adventurer
nice idea, I might look into that and lower mine down instead of the towers.

However, one problem, your rack can be stolen by someone with a wrench. The regular Yakima mounts incorporate locks at the track and locks to hold the rack to the cross bars. Granted, someone would have to be very desperate to steal it, but food for thought.
 

fourfa

Observer
Good point. Thinking about tamper-resistant nuts (McMaster P/N 90080A260, http://www.mcmaster.com/#steel-tamper-resistant-nuts/=ddrvle )

Drove from SF CA to Prudhoe Bay and back in May/June/July, plus lots of other miles around Alaska. Loaded with 80L of gas, 20L of water, and full size mounted spare for a good number of those miles. One of the megawarrior screws holding its sections together chipped a bit of paint on the shell, from some small amount of deflection. Ordering a third bracket kit now and that problem will be gone.
 
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southpier

Expedition Leader
as strong as the rack to cap connection is, what is the method holding the cap to the bed?

could there be enough dynamic movement (i'm not an engineer!) to spread the cap base off the truck bed rails when loaded & wheeling?

thanks
 

fourfa

Observer
The cap is held to the bed's load rails at four spots with bolts. The cap can't spread. What the cap can do is shear a little left and right at the top, while the base remains in place. I have seen complaints from time to time that long-term heavy roof storage can lead to cracking in the fiberglass at the upper corners. I don't think I'll be loading mine to the point that it's a problem. But I did notice a little more flex than usual, such that the locking tabs that hold the window closed had a strange wear pattern.

The burly solution to that would be a tube bent just so to fit inside the rear edge of the cap, with welded plates to bolt to the bed sides and the bolts through the cap
 

bajascott

New member
5 months later... how's this thing holding up?

I have the same shell and am considering doing the yakima track option for mounting my cargo rack or surfboard racks. Anything you would do different 2nd time around?
 

enzo

Explorer
I'm thinking of getting a shell and mounting my RTT up there. I'm sure it's been done but wanted to see if anyone has ran into any problems.
 

fourfa

Observer
I added a third pair of mounting brackets, that was a necessary addition with the extended MegaWarrior and 6' bed. Without the extension over a 5' bed, probably not needed. I haven't needed any additional parts to hold the rack from moving side to side - pure clamping friction keeps it in place. I guess you're not using the MegaWarrior so just FYI for anyone else...

Zero problems with leakage, breakage or anything like that.

One thing I'd do during installation, as I'm getting ready to do it now. Install something useful on the inside of the roof, between the roof and the hemispherical interior nuts. Like a hook, or a mounting plate for webbing. Use that as an attachment point for some kind of roof storage. Maybe a stretch net (to stuff jackets and other bulky, lightweight items) or what I'm doing - mounting a couple of MOLLE panels up there, and attaching a dozen ditty pouches for random small items, a machete, water bottle, etc. It'll help manage the clutter in my living quarters.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/140674755621?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
 

Tbird

Observer
This is pretty slick. Wish I'd seen this thread earlier. I got a hold of a nice mid-rise ARE shell w/ the Yakama channels already installed.
I also have the same basket you do...w/o the extension. I also was not about to spend almost $300 for the landing pads/tower/bar combo.
So a friend and myself just fabbed feet and bars for mine. We tried to make it a lower profile...but it's still higher than I'd like.

After all that work...now I'm considering going your route.
 

jamyers77

New member
fourfa, thanks for this post. I've been trying to figure out how to mount my Loadwarrior (9" skinnier than the Mega) to the cap. I too wanted a cheaper/shorter alternative to the Yakima towers.
Here's what I'm thinking

Unistrut channels on the outside mounted permanently to the cap. Then install unistrut crossbars to the LW. This would accomplish a few things. It would provide movement of the rack front to back and still have the ability to throw onto the wife's XTerra. Most importantly it will essentially widen the stance of the LW. This will allow me to mount the permanent strut farther outside avoiding the honeycomb and provide more strength.

It makes sense to me, but looking for any feedback.
 

partsflyin

Adventurer
fourfa, thanks for the great idea !! Just mounted my warrior yesterday using your method. Couldn't be happier !! I also went ahead and mounted a small D-ring to each mounting bolt on the inside of the shell. Plans are to weave in some bungee cord for light overhead storage.
Thanks again for the tip !!
 

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