Quickie: Timing chain change, 2.7L Tacoma

[dustboy]

When does the timing chain need to be changed on the 2.7L Tacoma? I've searched everywhere (including the manual!!) and found no indication. Does that mean it doesn't need to be replaced like a timing belt does??

I'm at 130k miles now, original clutch, original timing chain...I keep expecting something to blow up, but she just keeps on ticking..

 

[Bergger]

The 3RZ-FE engine is awesome. I had one in my 1995 Tacoma and often miss it. The 5VZ-FE in my current Tacoma has a belt that needs replacing at 90k. Yours has a timing chain and someone correct me if I'm wrong but as far as I know it does not need replacing. As long as you change the oil on a regular basis, which lubricates the chain, you should be fine at this point. Now if you still have the truck in another 100k miles and plan on keeping it you may want to replace it to be safe. For now I would not worry about it.

 

[4Rescue]

The 3RZ-FE engine is awesome. I had one in my 1995 Tacoma and often miss it. The 5VZ-FE in my current Tacoma has a belt that needs replacing at 90k. Yours has a timing chain and someone correct me if I'm wrong but as far as I know it does not need replacing. As long as you change the oil on a regular basis, which lubricates the chain, you should be fine at this point. Now if you still have the truck in another 100k miles and plan on keeping it you may want to replace it to be safe. For now I would not worry about it.

No... they all need to be changed, the're simmilar to 22R/E motors and usualy around 150k they need to be looked at and probably changed. You may want to look into some new chain guides too at the time of changing. Cause alot of T-Chain failoures are guide failures and the pieces of the worn guide (causing excessive chain slap/flail wich wears a hole in the T-chain cover) end up taking out the chain as well. The chain also stretches over time. Older 22R's have the best of all because they have the double row chains that are virtualy bombproof..

Luckily for us, I don't belive that Toyota's motors are "interference motors" meaning should the T-chain go the valves don't get smashed into the pistons. I was told this by Ted of Engnbldr fame and his brother who put my 22RE in my toyota. Sure enough, I had a freak break after only 300 miles and the motor was fine, just needed a new chain (free of course)

PM DaveinDenver here on the boards, he knows so much about Toyotas it's really crazy. You could also try talking to Rodger Brown of 4Crawler fame, he's a Toyota guru of sorts as well.

Cheers

Dave

 

[taco chaser]

The old 22re 4 banger was every 70,000 to 90,000 miles and the 2.7 is every 90,000 miles. I would not mess with the possibility of the slightest off timing in an interference engine like the 2.7 I have yet to tear into a 2.7, but I'm pretty sure it is timing belt driven, dual overhead cam so that might be why you can't find any info on timing chain replacement.

The dual timing chain is an after market set up for the 22re, at least it was for mine.

 

[DaveInDenver]

The old 22re 4 banger was every 70,000 miles and the 2.7 is every 90,000 miles. I would not mess with the possibility of the slightest off timing in an interference engine like the 2.7 I have yet to tear into a 2.7, but I think it is timing belt driven so that might be why you can't find any info on chain replacement.

The dual timing chain is an after market set up for the 22re, at least it was for mine.

The 2RZ and 3RZ have timing chains and 90K sounds low. If you follow the factory recommendations on the 22R, it will work out to somewhere around 100K to 150K. Their procedure is to take out the chain and measure it, rather than a periodic interval. Based solely on my experience a complete OEM kit on the 22R is safe to 100K. With after market parts (metal backed included), that interval could be anywhere from 25K to 125K. The main part that seems to vary in quality is the chain tensioner and you want to buy the Toyota boxed parts or it's direct equivalent (Japanese-made is what you're looking for and OSK brand is best). I also personally believe that the OEM plastic guides are much better than after market guides, which is why it seems the original parts go much longer than replacement.

My original parts were all 100% intact and I had acceptable chain stretch at 125K when I went to the "better" guides. My metal backed timing guides broke (which then snapped the chain as it wrapped around the bottom gear) at 45K. The dual row is the way to go, but it's not painless. The thicker timing cover would not work with my A/C bracket.

BTW, the 22R does seem to be an interference engine. I definitely had a valve kiss one of my pistons. I put one of Engnbldr's heads on, so I don't know for sure if I had bent valves. One day I will rebuild the old head and find out for sure. But there was evidence of the valve on the piston face. Mine broke near idle, so it would have been much worse at operating RPM...

 

[Cackalak Han]

Slightly OT: Why did Toyota go with a chain on the 2.7L and a belt on the 3.4L? Same with the 4.0L V6 (chain) and 4.7/5.7 V8 (belt). Shouldn't the more powerful motor get the chain?

 

[DaveInDenver]

Slightly OT: Why did Toyota go with a chain on the 2.7L and a belt on the 3.4L? Same with the 4.0L V6 (chain) and 4.7/5.7 V8 (belt). Shouldn't the more powerful motor get the chain?

This is a matter of some speculation, but the best description is it has to do with interference vs. non-interference engines. The general rule used to be it seems is that Toyota engines that have a belt are non-interference and chain motors are interference. The 3VZ and 5VZ are non-interference and have belts, the 22R is interference and has a chain.

Although AFAIK the 2UZ (4.7L) is an interference engine and has a belt, so I dunno how much you can generalize. I think that rule might only apply (if at all) to older engines (say designed before about 1995), because now with fuel economy and power requirements I think it's tough to have anything but interference type engines and still make everyone happy.

I suppose there are a couple of reasons why engines get chains or belts. Primarily it's probably configuration. Running a V block with overhead cams is much easier with a belt than chain. It's easier to replace a belt, which if the engine is interference would be very important. But OTOH if the valve/piston clearance is critical a chain is probably a better bet. Not to mention that a belt is quieter than a chain, which if the engine is designed for a passenger car would be certainly considered. The noise of a chain is probably why the 22R uses plastic guides instead of rubber coated metal like in the 20R (and very early 22R). Anyway, mostly I think it's more a matter of engine style, inline verses V and overhead cam or pushrods, etc. If the engine can easily utilize a chain, I'd bet Toyota would use a chain. But often it's just more practical to use a belt.

 

[dustboy]

Good info, seems there are many out there as confused as me. Denver, you seem to know more than you should, so I'll take your word for it.

But, if I'm going to go to all the trouble to take the dang thing out and measure it, why not just replace it and ALL associated wear parts? A few more bucks isn't much spread out over the next 100k.

BTW who is a good source for a replacement kit?

The problem with a Toyota is that you don't need a mechanic often enough. Once you find a good one, he's retired before you need him again.

Thanks!

 

[4Rescue]

The old 22re 4 banger was every 70,000 to 90,000 miles and the 2.7 is every 90,000 miles. I would not mess with the possibility of the slightest off timing in an interference engine like the 2.7 I have yet to tear into a 2.7, but I'm pretty sure it is timing belt driven, dual overhead cam so that might be why you can't find any info on timing chain replacement.

The dual timing chain is an after market set up for the 22re, at least it was for mine.

Toyota motors are historicaly NOT interference motors: Dave my 22Re is NOT an interference motor. (I've broken a T-chain while it was running, so that's confirmed) ... The Dual row T-Chain was stock on 20R's (but was adaptable to 22R/E's) and 70K out of a T-chain... ouch, most will run untill 100K + in my exp.
Cheers

Dave

I agree with the use of all Toyota parts because they just seem to be better and last longer... Don't know if it's Fairy dust or what, but they just do...

 

[taco chaser]

Toyota motors are historicaly NOT interference motors: Dave my 22Re is NOT an interference motor. (I've broken a T-chain while it was running, so that's confirmed) ... The Dual row T-Chain was stock on 20R's (but was adaptable to 22R/E's) and 70K out of a T-chain... ouch, most will run untill 100K + in my exp.
Cheers

Dave

I agree with the use of all Toyota parts because they just seem to be better and last longer... Don't know if it's Fairy dust or what, but they just do...

The question is about a 2.7 4cyl, which might be an interference motor, though I may stand corrected.

 

[4Rescue]

The question is about a 2.7 4cyl, which might be an interference motor, though I may stand corrected.

agreed, I belive it's not, but hell I seem to be wrong all the time eh

Cheers

Dave

 

[dustboy]

FWIW, I had the truck in today for some maintenance. My mechanic said the timing chain isn't a maintenance part, and the only one he ever saw fail was an old chrysler. If it ever starts running poorly then it should be looked at, but it shouldn't leave you stranded. He also said the 3RZ is not an interference engine. Huh..Guess the jury's out on that one?

 

[dorton]

The 3RZ is an awesome motor to say the least, I have been with toyota for a while, and have yet to see an issue with the t-chain. I have seen a handfull with 400K+, and a one with 500K+ on stock chain. As a matter of fact, I have seen more with over 500k with original t-chain, than without.

 

[YesItBreaksAndItHappensTo]

IF CHAINs DON'T BREAK why Did this HaPPen

I have a 2002 tacoma it is a prerunner 2wd 2.7l 3rzfe it was in a collision in the front in 06 ibaught it from that guy was scraping it i paid him 4k in07 and rehahabed the truck after a hole hood fenders grill lights rad fanclutch frame check on the machine Yes it,was done legit paint and other parts it ran from
55k on it to start to 107k mi and then the harnonic balencer went i went cheap harmonicbalencer from certin autoparts places he who shall not be nameD we'll after that the
T chain had broken cause i should have had the right balencer insted it was the wrong balencer i should have gone to the dealer and never gone to Autoparts places that clame it oem are full of bully yes they bully you to perchase it and you do so you pay for it later i still have the broken chaine and lay i looked like a 6mmdrillhole into the keyway i took it all apart so i know the extensive amount of parts it took out don't know if its interference engine so i still have the cylinder head on and the stock balencer it came with i will use it belt less until i can get get it tdc #1 ill place the pully in place mark it pull hole assembly off go to home depo ge that wet seal can not spray place parts alined i a nonstick Dollerstore pan going to get a factory gear it on a pan but connected new chain and lower gear i got a aftermarket chaine for $11.76 it turned out to be the SA gear i called and described it to them a "rollo" trade mark is theres advanced wanthed 80bucks just for the same chain special order only and now all i need is a cheap oil pump ill be good if all goes we'll before it I am try ing to find out if it bent the valves or not i need to do is play it safe get it running so i feel better about myself i thougt i was getting headache from this and now i found a little scope cam iam going to check down in the cylinders take photos with my phone and keep up on this post a put it on you tube i was going 96mph the night before The chaine brake The day aftet i started it it ran fine drove down th street it wen pop pop pop pooop died iwas no iiam not shure but will be before i remove it or keep it so yes.i chainged oil every 3 k mi and keeped it clean at the time other than i hwy and gas it alot of tq from this motor for a 4cylinder i think a 3rz could be a mr2 engine It holds up to a beat a stays there so yes change your chan and gears as.if it were a motorcycle chain as the teeth show wear it's time for a change and as for the chaine caude it vbroke at The pins they stretch out at these points and a tensioner help ade in the breake this is my under standing and when it does it takes out a piece of thr timing Cover were the oil jet sprays the chaine inside the cover behind the oil pump and inside the cover crank position semsor side it broke at 30 mph continued to be continued

 

[YesItBreaksAndItHappensTo]

The 3RZ is an awesome motor to say the least, I have been with toyota for a while, and have yet to see an issue with the t-chain. I have seen a handfull with 400K+, and a one with 500K+ on stock chain. As a matter of fact, I have seen more with over 500k with original t-chain, than without.

This is because the owner / driver isn't a race car driver an keeps the rpms low he doesn't wear out the chain high rpms tq thrusts in the crank it will break read on next post