Ram 5500 Fire Crew Carrier Overlanding Camper Build
- Thread starter OverlandFT
- Start date
OverlandFT
Well-known member
I was able to get the on board air setup done last weekend. Overall, it's pretty straight forward and the hardest part was just finding locations for the oil lubricator and catch. The compressor clutch cycles on the pressure switch (90-120PSI) and the oil lubricator added oil as needed. The real test will be to see how long it takes to fill the big tires...
OverlandFT
Well-known member
After the OBA install, I started working on the bed for my 5 year old daughter. The camper inside is pretty tight and that makes adding two beds a challenge. My wife and I will sleep on a trifold sofa that we plan to order soon. A bunk bed for my daughter is really the only option, but mounting and placing it is challenging. I decided to build a platform that can be raised to the ceiling when not in use for maximum space utilization. I plan to use a cable & pulley system to raise/lower the platform using a 12V ATV winch. So far, I mounted unistrut with tolleys for the slide mechanism and built the basic frame of the platform.
OverlandFT
Well-known member
I picked up the tires (Pirelli Pista PS22 335/80R20)! They took 27 days to arrive since shipped. 
Just waiting on the wheels from Stazworks before I can test fit. Looks like the wheel chock compartment will need to be removed in the rear.
Just waiting on the wheels from Stazworks before I can test fit. Looks like the wheel chock compartment will need to be removed in the rear.
OverlandFT
Well-known member
Wheels came in from Stazworks and I'm very happy with the quality. They also had these built and shipped in a week! I was able to install and seat two of the tires on the wheels myself. The other three tires must have been stacked for a while and they were too narrow to seat the bead myself. No problem, the local big rig tire shop had them mounted in matter of minutes. I used 12 oz counteract balancing beads in each tire and that will hopefully make them ride smooth.
I choose wheels with an offset to match the track width front & rear. This means the front tires stick out more, but without offset, the rear wheels would have been too wide for the box. The wheel width is 92"
I had to cut the rear wheel opening bigger and remove the wheel chock enclosure. I'm still working on finishing the cut and may reshape or use a fender flare. The front is all hacked up currently as I wait for the AEV Highmark fender flares, which arrive next week. I tried my best to mock the AEV templates for cutting without taking too much off. Right now, it looks like it will need a lift but that may change with the new AEV flares.
Also, I added a TPMS system. The wheels have schrader valves on both sides, so I was able to mount the TPMS sensor to the inside valve on all four wheels.
I'm having trouble finding a spot for the spare tire. Unfortunately, it will probably block the rear door no matter how I design a carrier. Definitely a drawback to having a centered rear door vs offset or side door.
I choose wheels with an offset to match the track width front & rear. This means the front tires stick out more, but without offset, the rear wheels would have been too wide for the box. The wheel width is 92"
I had to cut the rear wheel opening bigger and remove the wheel chock enclosure. I'm still working on finishing the cut and may reshape or use a fender flare. The front is all hacked up currently as I wait for the AEV Highmark fender flares, which arrive next week. I tried my best to mock the AEV templates for cutting without taking too much off. Right now, it looks like it will need a lift but that may change with the new AEV flares.
Also, I added a TPMS system. The wheels have schrader valves on both sides, so I was able to mount the TPMS sensor to the inside valve on all four wheels.
I'm having trouble finding a spot for the spare tire. Unfortunately, it will probably block the rear door no matter how I design a carrier. Definitely a drawback to having a centered rear door vs offset or side door.
OverlandFT
Well-known member
There's 5.5" uptravel tire-to-box in the rear, the bump stops hit at 4.5." The fender I cut is just above the tire and I'm still determining how to "finish" the cut & fenders. I'm open to suggestions. Either way, it's right there in terms of clearances and a small lift would certainly help. On the flip side of that, because the inside is small and mainly used for sleep or inclement weather, I want to keep the truck as low as possible to keep good access to the storage boxes on the outside. The upper box that's long is the outdoor kitchen and the door will be used as the counter. My wife won't care for a 5 ft counter height!
Java, the test drive was fairly smooth and quiet. I've only had it up to around 55 MPH and no highway yet. We're hoping to get it out this weekend for a local trip and I'll have a better initial impression to provide afterward.
Java, the test drive was fairly smooth and quiet. I've only had it up to around 55 MPH and no highway yet. We're hoping to get it out this weekend for a local trip and I'll have a better initial impression to provide afterward.
rruff
Explorer
Articulation when crossed up subtracts a few inches. You'll be rubbing early in that case.
Is there a subframe that allows relative movement between the box and frame?
OverlandFT
Well-known member
I've convinced myself it won't articulate much at all in the rear (probably wrong
). I'll do some testing today on some forest service roads...The box is built with horizontal beams on the frame and is connected to the frame using the spring fasteners. No subframe.
rruff
Explorer
The beams and springs would be the subframe. Guess it's fixed in the back?
Pretty sure the frame is an open C and designed to torsionally flex a lot, but the suspension is probably pretty solid if you have it loaded less than it used to be. If you can cross a ditch at an angle so that a front wheel and opposite side rear are both in it at the same time... and you are teetering on two wheels, then that should be "worst case". Take pictures please! I'm interested in how the mounting system behaves.
Pretty sure the frame is an open C and designed to torsionally flex a lot, but the suspension is probably pretty solid if you have it loaded less than it used to be. If you can cross a ditch at an angle so that a front wheel and opposite side rear are both in it at the same time... and you are teetering on two wheels, then that should be "worst case". Take pictures please! I'm interested in how the mounting system behaves.
OverlandFT
Well-known member
Ok, lots of updates! I apologize for lack of posts recently and not responding to some of the posts. I spent the last few weeks working on the truck relentlessly for a trip to UT that we planned for Oct 5th. Talk about stressful!
Here we go...
AEV fender install: Installing these fenders was the worst project I've dealt with on the truck yet. It's just a very tedious process of removing panel, test fit, mark, measure, cut, drill, rivet, test fit again, drill, seam sealer, etc. The final installed product is amazing fit & finish, so it's worth it overall. I didn't get the LED light kit, but call AEV and they mailed it (still not installed). Also, had a duplicate fender bracket, which I had to cut/weld to fit the correct side. The tires fit great with the new fenders & no lift.
Here we go...
AEV fender install: Installing these fenders was the worst project I've dealt with on the truck yet. It's just a very tedious process of removing panel, test fit, mark, measure, cut, drill, rivet, test fit again, drill, seam sealer, etc. The final installed product is amazing fit & finish, so it's worth it overall. I didn't get the LED light kit, but call AEV and they mailed it (still not installed). Also, had a duplicate fender bracket, which I had to cut/weld to fit the correct side. The tires fit great with the new fenders & no lift.
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