Rango.....1942 Willys MB
- Thread starter Metcalf
- Start date
Sean VHA #60013
Adventurer
OK, as an extreme fan of this build, I have a few burning questions:
1. When will we see guages in the dash, and what will they consist of?
2. Are you going to add any communications gear, CB, HAM, etc?
3. Are you contemplating any sort of a custom hard top to fit over the cage for future cold weather trips?
4. How's the radiator holding up for keeping it cool while crawling etc?
5. What sort of lockers are you going to use when you re-gear?
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
1- gauge preview! I am putting together a how I installed them thing with more pictures, but since you asked....
I went with Autometer Z-series since they a a good quality affordable gauge with LOTS of options. I ended up going with an in dash tach to replace the speedometer. That is just personal preference really. I think the tach is more useful in engine diagnostics and setup. I can just memorize a few gear/speed tables to know how fast I am going. It's not like this thing goes THAT fast
The auxiliary gauges are an electric water temperature and oil pressure gauge, a mechanical vacuum gauge, and a volt meter. If you know how to use it, the vacuum meter is VERY handy for diagnosing a LOT of engine issues and/or tuning the carburetor. 2- Communications gear. I have my tech license and always have my Yeasu vx-7rb ridding shotgun. I don't really plan on complicating things up with another radio at this point. I wouldn't mind having a REALLY small CB at some point for organized trail runs.
3- Hard top. I will not be installing an enclosed hard top. I will be making an aluminum bikini top for the cage to keep the sun off my head, but that is about it. A hard top would lead to the need for a heater, defroster, doors, etc. That is WAY too much complication for me. I just think of it as a motorcycle with 4 tires......you dress for the weather.
4-Radiator. So far it seems to be doing pretty well. Now that I have the temp gauge in I will be able to watch the temp a little bit more. Crawling around has never really been an issue, it has been trying to maintain temps on long hills. I will have to see how it does now that I have a hole in the hood for the carb plenum. I think that will help get some of the hot air out from under the hood. The fenders are also lifted now with a gap at the bottom, that should also help get a little more air out of the engine compartment. The electric fan is now installed on the radiator with a much better mount. I elected to run the fan full time without any temp control. If the engine is running the fan is running. The thermostat regulates engine temp. I have never had a 'too cool' problem running things this way.
In the long term I will be replacing the existing radiator with something better. These flat fender jeeps have such short grills that finding short radiators is always a challenge.
5-Lockers. I keep going back and forth. I am probably going to try an auto-locker in front with the existing Powr-lok in the rear. Depending on how that works I will most likely add a selectable locker in the rear. I would really like to find a used Jeep JK Rubicon FRONT locker to install in the rear D44 eventually ( JK rubicon FRONT locker is 30 spline ). This thing has always done really well with just the Powr-lok in the rear. I think the front locker will add a large amount of off road performance without breaking the bank. Cost is a big factor on this project. I have a hard time spending $2000+ dollars on a set of ARB's when I only paid $1300 for the entire vehicle originally.
I hope that answered you questions. Thanks for asking.
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
Well how big isn't it?
It's not as big as a 2wd gm 1/2 ton truck.....
I brought the willys into work today. I got the exhaust leak fixed,
that made a big difference in the exhaust sound. It also doesn't pop
as much now when getting off the throttle. Overall it seems to be
running pretty dang decent. I need to pull a plug or two and see how
they look. I kinda wonder how the jetting is in the carb?
It's driving pretty decent too. With the big clown tires, and being
stupid low to the ground, it actually corners pretty decent. Steering
is a one hand affair and it doesn't seem to wander much.I would have
thought with the front shackles still in front of the spring it would
have been more of a handfull. I do have metal bushings in the spring
and only a single poly bushing in the frame side of the shackle....and
the shackles are only like 3" center to center.
I do get a kinda weird' on power, off power, wiggle out of the rear
end? I don't know what that can be? I think the tires are still low. I
need to get them all up to 20psi and if that helps things.
Concrete expansion joints are not my friend with an 85-86" wheelbase.
It's pretty bouncy. I don't like that, but I don't think there is much
I can do without getting into custom springs and shocks.
The engine temp seems to be doing pretty well. It's better than I
remember at least. It was in the 40s this morning. The temp just
seemed to sit at the 160F mark or so. That is what the thermostat is I
think. Going home uphill when its 80F, or so, should give it a bit of
a workout. It will be interesting to see what it does. I still need to
make an overflow bottle of some kind. I had a glass Corona bottle for
years, it won't fit anymore.
2000rpm/4th gear is about 48mph according to my gps on the phone. It
just loafs right along at those speeds. It is going to be interesting
to see how 5.38 gearing works? I did a little playing around last
night on some dirt hills trying to dial in the idle and stuff. The
idle is about 600rpm now and it seems to be doing pretty well in low
range. I can see the need for it to be lower for sure, but on the
other hand its pretty hard to stall. I am half thinking about trying
to make a remote idle screw and/or manual throttle thing. Once the
engine is warmed up it will idle at like 300-400rpm....though it
sounds like two harley engines trying to die.
My transfer case adapter is still leaking....stupid thing.
I need to get a better handle on my HEI, how the vacuum advance works,
and if I should hook it up? I should probably get a reman distributor
to replace my $20 pick and pull unit. I think it has a few miles on
it!
It's not as big as a 2wd gm 1/2 ton truck.....
I brought the willys into work today. I got the exhaust leak fixed,
that made a big difference in the exhaust sound. It also doesn't pop
as much now when getting off the throttle. Overall it seems to be
running pretty dang decent. I need to pull a plug or two and see how
they look. I kinda wonder how the jetting is in the carb?
It's driving pretty decent too. With the big clown tires, and being
stupid low to the ground, it actually corners pretty decent. Steering
is a one hand affair and it doesn't seem to wander much.I would have
thought with the front shackles still in front of the spring it would
have been more of a handfull. I do have metal bushings in the spring
and only a single poly bushing in the frame side of the shackle....and
the shackles are only like 3" center to center.
I do get a kinda weird' on power, off power, wiggle out of the rear
end? I don't know what that can be? I think the tires are still low. I
need to get them all up to 20psi and if that helps things.
Concrete expansion joints are not my friend with an 85-86" wheelbase.
It's pretty bouncy. I don't like that, but I don't think there is much
I can do without getting into custom springs and shocks.
The engine temp seems to be doing pretty well. It's better than I
remember at least. It was in the 40s this morning. The temp just
seemed to sit at the 160F mark or so. That is what the thermostat is I
think. Going home uphill when its 80F, or so, should give it a bit of
a workout. It will be interesting to see what it does. I still need to
make an overflow bottle of some kind. I had a glass Corona bottle for
years, it won't fit anymore.
2000rpm/4th gear is about 48mph according to my gps on the phone. It
just loafs right along at those speeds. It is going to be interesting
to see how 5.38 gearing works? I did a little playing around last
night on some dirt hills trying to dial in the idle and stuff. The
idle is about 600rpm now and it seems to be doing pretty well in low
range. I can see the need for it to be lower for sure, but on the
other hand its pretty hard to stall. I am half thinking about trying
to make a remote idle screw and/or manual throttle thing. Once the
engine is warmed up it will idle at like 300-400rpm....though it
sounds like two harley engines trying to die.
My transfer case adapter is still leaking....stupid thing.
I need to get a better handle on my HEI, how the vacuum advance works,
and if I should hook it up? I should probably get a reman distributor
to replace my $20 pick and pull unit. I think it has a few miles on
it!
bishopdunn
Observer
Clutch Slave Cylinder Question
You mentioned when you returned from Moab that the clutch internal slave cylinder wasn't working properly and you were trying to come up with a way to mount an external unit. What did you end up doing?
You mentioned when you returned from Moab that the clutch internal slave cylinder wasn't working properly and you were trying to come up with a way to mount an external unit. What did you end up doing?
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
The internal unit is working, but still isn't making me happy. I have the stroke from the pedal minimized as much as possible, but I think I need to make another stop or something. Basically if your not careful, or the starts align right, you get slight over-travel of the internal hydro cylinder and it hits the pressure plate.
I think most of the issue is just the pressure plate shape, but it is still annoying.
I am going to have to run with it till I do something drastically different.
I DO NOT recommend this system. It is just a total pain in the rear to adjust, inspect, tighten the fittings, etc. If at all possible go with an external system. I think the only way I would go with an internal system is if all the parts where OEM stock from some modern application.
I think most of the issue is just the pressure plate shape, but it is still annoying.
I am going to have to run with it till I do something drastically different.
I DO NOT recommend this system. It is just a total pain in the rear to adjust, inspect, tighten the fittings, etc. If at all possible go with an external system. I think the only way I would go with an internal system is if all the parts where OEM stock from some modern application.
bishopdunn
Observer
Thanks, this is a great help.
berg
Observer
Last edited:
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
Thank you for the input. I am REALLY digging my MC 2100. I love the fact that it is just so simple. I think all carbs require a little bit of a black art to tune right, but having the proper tools really seems to help. I need to get an wide band O2 setup, that would be very neat.....
I have #47 jets in mine ( perhaps also with an 'F' stamped on them? ). Seat of the pants I think they are a bit rich. My elevation is just about 6800ft at the house and 6500ish here in Durango. I have a feeling that I will be building a little pill box of jets to deal with the elevation changes I see around here. I do like that I can change jets by just pulling the top off and removing the clip on the float.
I will start tuning with the plugs and see where that gets me.....
I have #47 jets in mine ( perhaps also with an 'F' stamped on them? ). Seat of the pants I think they are a bit rich. My elevation is just about 6800ft at the house and 6500ish here in Durango. I have a feeling that I will be building a little pill box of jets to deal with the elevation changes I see around here. I do like that I can change jets by just pulling the top off and removing the clip on the float.
I will start tuning with the plugs and see where that gets me.....
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
I finally got the Willys on a scale....or rather scales. I have access to a pair of truck scales at work. They get calibrated every so often and are for much heavier loads, but still.....
Total= 2920 lbs
Front= 1600 lbs
Rear= 1320 lbs
DF- 780 lbs
PF- 820 lbs
DR- 660 lbs
PF- 660 lbs
I'm pretty happy with that. I know I could build another one a lot lighter, but for a big pile of old junkyard parts it's not bad. There is a lot of places weight could be saved by using other parts and or materials.
Included was approx 10 gallons of fuel and a tool bag shoved under the front seat ( 20lbs maybe ). My body is also undercoated, but then there are a TON of extra holes so it probably washes out.
Some day I would LOVE to build one with the pick of the litter parts and see if it could be 2750lbs.....2500lbs....or even 2000lbs. I think that would require a LOT of dimple died speed holes and aluminum!
Fun Fun
Edit: I just looked and the rear storage tool boxes are pretty packed with extra fluids....
Total= 2920 lbs
Front= 1600 lbs
Rear= 1320 lbs
DF- 780 lbs
PF- 820 lbs
DR- 660 lbs
PF- 660 lbs
I'm pretty happy with that. I know I could build another one a lot lighter, but for a big pile of old junkyard parts it's not bad. There is a lot of places weight could be saved by using other parts and or materials.
Included was approx 10 gallons of fuel and a tool bag shoved under the front seat ( 20lbs maybe ). My body is also undercoated, but then there are a TON of extra holes so it probably washes out.
Some day I would LOVE to build one with the pick of the litter parts and see if it could be 2750lbs.....2500lbs....or even 2000lbs. I think that would require a LOT of dimple died speed holes and aluminum!
Fun Fun
Edit: I just looked and the rear storage tool boxes are pretty packed with extra fluids....
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
Trying to get better at documentation....
Here is the lip seal I used on my D18 rear output yoke....
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...2sg?itemIdentifier=487175_46154_0_10492,10642
Its part number 472635, Timken.
It seemed to work well. My D18 yoke had a slight wear area also so
that could be causing my slow drip in that location.
Here is the lip seal I used on my D18 rear output yoke....
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...2sg?itemIdentifier=487175_46154_0_10492,10642
Its part number 472635, Timken.
It seemed to work well. My D18 yoke had a slight wear area also so
that could be causing my slow drip in that location.
lstzephyr
wanderer
Yeah it took me a while to figure out the black magic voodoo for tuning my dirtbike carb. The funny thing about the voodoo magic is that now I know by feel what jet I need. I walked out to my bike one day and thought hmm...today feels a bit cold, I need a 180. The bike ran perfect with it too. lol
When we did a lot of altitude changes I would carry an extra set of jets around. I really can't think of a different way to go about it unless you don't care about throttle response.
bishopdunn
Observer
When you were building your exhaust system it appears you were cutting your mandrel bends from a U-bent piece and using regular straight pipe for the rest. Did you pick up those parts locally or order online? If online, where did you source them?