Real World P38 Coil Suspension Advice?

[Excursion73]

I am getting ready to do restore and engine swap my 1995 RR SE. The airbags and compressor are toast. I have no interest in restoring the air ride.

What coils are you guys running with what size tires? Any scrubbing?

From what I could read it looks like the OME HD springs will work best for me but I can't find a kit that comes with something to override the BECM. What are you guys doing if you are running the OME springs?

Sorry for my newb questions. I normally try to do all my research myself but with the Christmas rush at work my freetime is now overtime. Thanks for the help. :smiley_drive:

 

[Fivespddisco]

You got a lot of open-ended questions here. As I always say let's start the start, what size tires do you want to run. I have been running the terrafirma kit on our truck and have been very happy with it. But you could achieve the same kind a lift with OME springs and use terrafirma shocks.
The Terrafirma kit does come with the override module

 

[Excursion73]

Does this kit come with an override module? http://WWW.Lucky8LLc.com/Products.aspx?ProductID=3150

I am putting a 6.2L HMMVW engine into the Rover and need stiff springs to help with the extra weight. I want to run the largest tire I can with a 3" lift to help keep RPM's lower. Vehicle will be driven on road 99% of the time. I know I will be using BFG All-terrain KO tires. I am pretty sure I can run 31" But I am not sure if I can get any taller.

BTW I really have enjoyed reading your thread on your P38 build.

 

[Fivespddisco]

Does this kit come with an override module? http://WWW.Lucky8LLc.com/Products.aspx?ProductID=3150

No it does not

This kit does
http://www.lucky8llc.com/Products.aspx?ProductID=7205

I am putting a 6.2L HMMVW engine into the Rover and need stiff springs to help with the extra weight. I want to run the largest tire I can with a 3" lift to help keep RPM's lower. Vehicle will be driven on road 99% of the time. I know I will be using BFG All-terrain KO tires. I am pretty sure I can run 31" But I am not sure if I can get any taller.
[/QUOTE]

With that size tire you should be able to fit it in a 3 inch lift with out any issues. We may have to play around with a few different springs to get your nose to sit level but I have a couple of ideas. Worst case we could always use a Rovertym spring.

BTW I really have enjoyed reading your thread on your P38 build.

Thank you for the kind words

 

[Excursion73]

Do you have the 5" lift Terrafirma for sale yet? I need some... How do they ride on the road?
I would think they would ride pretty harsh with all the extra stiffness.

I just found this on ebay... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Manual-Susp...icles_CarParts_SM&hash=item563155b0dd&vxp=mtr

I am going to order it and I will contact you when I am ready to order my spring conversion kit. I re-read your build thread and it answered most of my questions. Thank you for all the help.

 

[Fivespddisco]

Do you have the 5" lift Terrafirma for sale yet? .

We should have them soon. Just waiting on the shocks.

. How do they ride on the road?
I would think they would ride pretty harsh with all the extra stiffness.
.

It rides nice, it is firm but not harsh. The pro sport shocks do a good job absorbing the bumps

I just found this on ebay... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Manual-Susp...icles_CarParts_SM&hash=item563155b0dd&vxp=mtr

That looks like the override included in the kit.

 

[proper4wd]

For the record, the over ride module is absolutely unnecessary.

All that the module does is intercept one wire and power it with +12V, and intercept another wire and ground it. You can accomplish the same thing at the BECM wiring harness with about 15 minutes of work and $4 worth of connectors, wiring, and shrink wrap.

I have installed kits both ways... using the "over ride module" as supplied by Atlantic British and others, and via the wiring harness modification. The end result is exactly the same, down to the messages displayed in the cluster.

 

[spikemd]

For the record, the over ride module is absolutely unnecessary.

All that the module does is intercept one wire and power it with +12V, and intercept another wire and ground it. You can accomplish the same thing at the BECM wiring harness with about 15 minutes of work and $4 worth of connectors, wiring, and shrink wrap.

I have installed kits both ways... using the "over ride module" as supplied by Atlantic British and others, and via the wiring harness modification. The end result is exactly the same, down to the messages displayed in the cluster.

Second that. Don't waste your money on an 'override kit'.

From the rangerovers.net site:" I have worked out that after you have fitted and welded the base plates to secure the springs, you can make a fairly minor modification to the wiring to get it to come up “EAS MANUAL”. What you do is open up the area around the BeCM then on the plug for the EAS, you cut the blue with white trace wire (pin 18) and the blue and grey wire (pin 9) from the plug. The blue and white wire is extended and fitted to the POSITIVE terminal at the front of the BeCM, ideally with a 5 amp in line fuse. The blue and grey wire is extended and joined to the NEGATIVE terminal at the rear of the BeCM. Tape up the wires that have been cut in the loom, to insulate them separately. Job done. You will then be able to remove the compressor from the box, giving you a nice under bonnet cubby box. Then you should remove the switch for the ride height, and remove the plug from it and return the switch. You can then also remove the ECU. When you turn the ignition on, you will see the dash display showing “EAS MANUAL”. You can check the dash display before removing anything, after doing the wiring, if you want to check it out before removing anything."

My buddy has the Arnott wiring instructions and see if he can scan them.

 

[SteveMfr]

Actually you only need to jumper 2 pairs of wires as both 12v and Gnd are in the harness. If you want to make it permanent, solder the wires together. 0.00001cents in solder and electrical tape.
Pin 1 to 25 and 7 to 18 on the EAS ECU connector under the driver's seat (LHD).

 

[Excursion73]

Thanks for the advice everyone. Once I get all my parts together I will do a conversion/resurrection thread.

 

[SteveMfr]

I have no interest in restoring the air ride.

A couple of items to think about in this regard: if you do stick with the EAS, you can use Gen3 air springs (such as these http://www.suncoreindustries.com/la...r-spring-bags-with-shocks-replacement-kit.php this is w/shocks and springs - they also have a coil conversion), longer shocks, free EAS Unlock Software ( http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=53&Itemid=56 ), and slightly modified rear height sensors to do a moderate lift. A replacement compressor seal can be had for about $15-25. When all is said and done, your parts cost is roughly the same as a coil conversion but your labor will be less.

And you retain the benefits of EAS (which is generally not unreliable if serviced every 4-5 years - though the RRC/P38 are a bit more 'special' than later LRs). One benefit came to mind again as I was reading through the OJ LR4 thread (pics below): you can have your RR lifted for off road use while retaining the handling characteristics of a stock vehicle for the street. The handling of permanently lifted vehicles invariably suffers due to the lift.

A few good shots of the ground clearance in "off road" suspension setting

I am an avid follower of the KISS principle, but there are trade-offs - and they are often not adequately considered. If you are planning on going to 35"+ tires, disregard the above...

Here are 2 stories on people going this route

http://hem.bredband.net/ronronp38/index.htm

http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-...1-my-eas-off-road-transformation-project.html

Sorry to go OT, but the threads above are interesting reading for someone into P38s this way or that. I run the same setup on my P38 and it really is the best of both worlds IMO.