Realistic price point for a 3" lift on a DD?

[Kiriesh]

That's a good point. I'd ideally like to pick up a winch in the near future for my front, but that's not laid in stone so I can't plan for it well. Another option I was considering was a Bilstein setup all around:

http://toyteclifts.3dcartstores.com/BK0510--Bilstein-Adjustable-lift-kit-with-5100-shocks_p_132.html

I'd most likely end up running them at 1.5" with the 2" AAL rear (AAL shouldn't be an issue as I like a bit of a rake and I'm currently riding flat stock).

If I want to go to 285's later I should be able to crank them up to 3" in the front and if necessary replace the rear pack with a new pack altogether like Dakars.

 

[DaveInDenver]

Since you're starting with a TRD Offroad you have progressive rate coils with the yellow Bilstein shocks. If you don't have a ton of miles on them (which you probably don't I'm guessing) you could reuse your coils with 5100 shocks and that would make an improvement in the ride. You can adjust the ride height to lift as much or little as you wish.

FWIW, your coils are around 520 lb/in (although being progressive sort of muddles that) and 14" long

OME 884 are 590 lb/in and 390mm (about 15.3") long
OME 885 are 590 lb/in and 395mm (about 15.6") long

You will get lift with OME coils. On a stock Access Cab the 884 gives about 2.25" and the 885 about 2.75". I don't know if that's similar for Double Cabs or not. You're best running OME coils with their shocks. I personally think the OME ride is good, but it will be more truck-like than now. Bilsteins ride a little softer, more car-like to me.

In the rear it's easier finding lift springs but there are ways to get stiffer springs without as much lift. You can ask Toyota to install the Canadian rear leaf pack (they are sometimes referred to as the 'TSB springs'). They are a higher rate spring that is an improved ride without much increase in height. You can also use OME Dakar springs and remove a leaf to ride lower. Also using better shocks will help a little with the spongy feeling, but ultimately you do need stronger springs.

FWIW, I don't run a diff drop. Never did on my old truck either, though. I also don't have a sway bar in front.

 

[AaronK]

FWIW the 885 coil raised the front of my Tundra about 2.5" with ARB bar and winch. So I'm quite a bit heavier than you are in front.
I did a diff drop. Whether or not I "needed" to, it flattened out my CV angles and it's cheap. No reason not to imo

Sent from my OnePlus One using Tapatalk.

 

[DaveInDenver]

I did a diff drop. Whether or not I "needed" to, it flattened out my CV angles and it's cheap. No reason not to imo

On the 2nd Tacoma it's kind of a Coke or Pepsi thing. I fall into the they don't help enough to justify them opinion. Realize I'm only talking about the 2nd gen Tacoma, not them in general. This is for a few reasons, mainly that the way the diff is mounted means a drop isn't actually lowering it equally but rotating it. So the CV angles aren't being returned to stock but reduced in one direction while being increased in another. On the 1st gen Tacoma a diff drop actually lowers the center so you were directly compensating for lift, so they were useful. But if you have a front end vibe after lifting on a 2nd gen putting a diff drop may make it better or worse. Also you can starve the pinion bearing after the diff drop because you rotate the housing such that the pinion ends up an additional inch higher than stock, so you have to make sure to top it.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diff-drop-or-not.116458/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diff-drop-poll.128298/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/remove-the-differential-drop-on-your-05-tacoma.118545/

 

[sasquatch15]

I have the same truck but 2014 and was looking for a similar set up as you. Went with 5100's all around and toytec eibach springs up front to level. Soon realized that any weight in the rear made it sag and handle poorly so I added Wheelers 3leaf add a leaf and it now handles a decent load and tows a lot better. I shopped around for a deal on the shocks and all in the parts were fairly inexpensive compared to other set ups. Alignment is good, tire wear is normal and handling is vastly improved on road, no more nose dive under braking or hitting front bump stops on speed bumps. I've run this set up with 235/85/16 grabber at2 for 45k and just put a set of toyo 265/75/16 open country load c on 2 weeks ago. Huge difference compared to the grabbers which were lacking in the high speed highway department. The other suspension options are the trusted OME setups, I've run 4 different ones on 2 Rovers a Grand Cherokee and a 01 Taco dcsb and the Bilstien 6112/ 5160 with a 3 leaf in the rear. I like to keep my rigs simple and uncomplicated plus living in the northeast makes me shy away from threaded shocks. Hope this has helped

 

[Kiriesh]

I have the same truck but 2014 and was looking for a similar set up as you. Went with 5100's all around and toytec eibach springs up front to level. Soon realized that any weight in the rear made it sag and handle poorly so I added Wheelers 3leaf add a leaf and it now handles a decent load and tows a lot better. I shopped around for a deal on the shocks and all in the parts were fairly inexpensive compared to other set ups. Alignment is good, tire wear is normal and handling is vastly improved on road, no more nose dive under braking or hitting front bump stops on speed bumps. I've run this set up with 235/85/16 grabber at2 for 45k and just put a set of toyo 265/75/16 open country load c on 2 weeks ago. Huge difference compared to the grabbers which were lacking in the high speed highway department. The other suspension options are the trusted OME setups, I've run 4 different ones on 2 Rovers a Grand Cherokee and a 01 Taco dcsb and the Bilstien 6112/ 5160 with a 3 leaf in the rear. I like to keep my rigs simple and uncomplicated plus living in the northeast makes me shy away from threaded shocks. Hope this has helped

I really appreciate your input. What level did you run the 5100's at? At this point I'm pretty set on 5100's set to 2.5" with eibach springs up front with 5100's in the rear and a 2" AAL (toytec branded).

 

[sasquatch15]

I kept them set on zero and it seems good. I don't like the idea of preloading the stock springs even tho that's what the shocks were made for. The factory springs gave a good highway ride but I felt they were too soft when on trails especially when the front tire comes off of an obstacle causing the front to compress onto whatever is underneath. Much more control now. I think I ordered the shocks from shock warehouse with a promo code and free shipping but if you search the part number you should be able to find a deal. Try summit racing or jegs, any of the bigger places seem to have deals. Headstrong Offroad is also a good place to look. Wheelers has been great to for the add a leafs.