Recommendation please: 15-30 amp, portable, universal, auto ranging charger

[john61ct]

Thanks for the leads on the MW chargers FFR.

Found this, save the programmer's $70 cost, uses a $5 USB to TTL converter

Zweikeks/meanwell-enc-series-chargelog

Command line utility (Python) to program or monitor the Mean Well ENC-series of chargers. No programmer needed. Direct connection to the serial port of the charger. - Zweikeks/meanwell-enc-series-c...

github.com

 

[john61ct]

Yes, the 3000i should get you there without the remote, just use a clamp ammeter to calibrate AHT.

Curious why you didn't just get a pair of SC-2030 if you already have the Bogart BM?

Should be able to share the same shunt if you do go that route.

 

[john61ct]

There are better ways to go LFP than a so-called drop-in, but topic for another day / its own thread

 

[john.travel]

Yes, the 3000i should get you there without the remote, just use a clamp ammeter to calibrate AHT.

Curious why you didn't just get a pair of SC-2030 if you already have the Bogart BM?

Should be able to share the same shunt if you do go that route.

Scope creep resulting in the second system; poorly planned. But I do prefer higher voltage and MPPT controllers. To start, I put an LG Mono X Plus 300 watt panel, 31.6 Vmpp panel into the 3000i, with a Trimetric 2030 and Xantrex inverter/charger. Then, I got nervous when someone told me their controller was stolen. South America is the wild west. So then I added a little Renogy Rover MPPT, but sized it big enough to support the 300 watt panel, in case I lost the 3000i. If everything keeps working, I have I think 574 watts of panels. I matched the voltages up pretty well on the backup controller, but lost some power due to that mismatch. Its plenty of power if it continues to work. But it's amazing how 10,000 miles of corrugated roads can take a toll on this stuff.

 

[dwh]

Set the solar absorb to infinity. Absorb will end when the sun goes down anyway, and a few extra hours won't hurt anything.

 

[john61ct]

Long as you set it back if stored in full sun not cycling

 

[luthj]

For a live aboard going absorb for 12 hours (essentially infinity) works well, and is highly suggested. When you store the vehicle or park it in the sun with no consumers/loads, turn your absorb down to a couple hours.

If you are not likely to spend much time plugged in, a charger with 3 stage profile is best. That being said, if you have a decent solar array, a simple PSU/float style charger/converter can work fine.

Here is another option. While I was in NZ they had the cloudiest may on record, something like 15 hours of sun in ChristChurch. I simply could not get enough solar, and there wasn't much driving for charging either. I did not have a 220V charger, and all the local places wanted something like 400$USD for anything more than 5A.

So I went to the computer repair shop, and got 2 90W laptop power bricks. They are all universal voltage, and output around 19V. I wired them in series (you could do parallel), and connected them to the solar input on my MPPT controller. Plugged it into the wall, and instant 13A 3 stage charger.

On some MPPT controllers you will need to adjust the array voltage sweep, becuase the laptop bricks will fault out if the current gets to high. So test it beforehand.

 

[john.travel]

I'm surprised there isn't a decent selection of portable, universal chargers , so I guess demand is minimal. It's looking like the Sterling will win out.

For a live aboard going absorb for 12 hours (essentially infinity) works well, and is highly suggested. When you store the vehicle or park it in the sun with no consumers/loads, turn your absorb down to a couple hours.

If you are not likely to spend much time plugged in, a charger with 3 stage profile is best. That being said, if you have a decent solar array, a simple PSU/float style charger/converter can work fine.

Here is another option. While I was in NZ they had the cloudiest may on record, something like 15 hours of sun in ChristChurch. I simply could not get enough solar, and there is far to drive there. I did not have a 220V charger, and all the local places wanted something like 400$USD for anything more than 5A.

So I went to the computer repair shop, and got 2 90W laptop power bricks. They are all universal voltage, and output around 19V. I wired them in series (you could do parallel), and connected them to the solar input on my MPPT controller. Plugged it into the wall, and instant 13A 3 stage charger.

On some MPPT controllers you will need to adjust the array voltage sweep, becuase the laptop bricks will fault out if the current gets to high. So test it beforehand.

Greetings and thanks! MacGyver at work! On this upcoming 14 months in South America, I suspect I'd be plugged into shore power less than 10% of the time, so I'm excluding my generator. I like this solution better than the "el cheapo" Mean Well above. Yours is more reliable AND creates a fully programable charging input. The only downside is that it assumes the solar controller works - no redundancy. I'm still evaluating options.

 

[john61ct]

Some MPPT will not work with non-panel inputs.

When not cycling just set Absorb to Float spec, especially with AGM do not want to overcharge. just remember to adjust back

__
Universal world power inputs, high build quality, robust components, gives reliability and longevity. Add in quality worldwide customer support, of course this all makes things expensive.

Jury rigging cheap stuff and interesting science experiments is certainly a valid approach too.

All depends on the use case and owner's preferences.

 

[john.travel]

Some MPPT will not work with non-panel inputs.

When not cycling just set Absorb to Float spec, especially with AGM do not want to overcharge. just remember to adjust back ?

__
Universal world power inputs, high build quality, robust components, gives reliability and longevity. Add in quality worldwide customer support, of course this all makes things expensive.

Jury rigging cheap stuff and interesting science experiments is certainly a valid approach too.

All depends on the use case and owner's preferences.

I'm doing the Sterling 12 Volt, 60 Amp BB1260 for DCDC, battery to battery charging, with the remote.
For the AC/DC charger that's the subject of this thread, I'm doing the Sterling ProCharge Ultra, 12 Volt, 40 Amp charger, with remote.

I'm ordering the devices now, then I'll get a materials takeoff and order the install parts.

Thanks for your help.

 

[john.travel]

Just as a follow up, I got this pricing at Bay Marine Supply today: https://baymarinesupply.com/

 

[67cj5]

Hi.

I'm ok with spending money for good stuff. I'm looking for a more practical alternative to installing a Sterling Power Pro Charge Ultra on my rig, mostly because I'm running out of space.

Is there a good portable charger that's universal/global, in that it accepts 100 to 270v, 40-80Hz. I'm looking for anything in the 15 to 30 amp range that I can use with a typical 50' power cord to reach out to shore power. I don't want to plug my rig's mains into shore power, so this portable charger would be in between the power source and the rig. I'm in the US and would use this charger for South America, Europe and Australia.

Thanks.

Mate, when you say Europe if that includes the UK, Look me up and I will loan you one, just bring the Bugga back when ya done LOL

PS, the UK is 240V 50Hz, SO if you end up buying one apart from the voltages Make sure it can handle both 50 Hz and 60 Hz Ok, If not buy one that does all voltages @ 50Hz and another one that does all voltages @ 60 Hz,

good luck,

 

[67cj5]

Just as a follow up, I got this pricing at Bay Marine Supply today: https://baymarinesupply.com/

Errrmmm I don't know if you realized but, ?? That's DC to DC not Shore Power to DC.

 

[john61ct]

Actually, both types covered in that quote

 

[67cj5]

Actually, both types covered in that quote

Is the Sterling Pro Charger the one that plugs in to the AC Mains ??