Redarc BCDC Charger and Yeti 1500x

[jprovence01]

I'm looking at several different options right now, but I had some thoughts with Goal Zero and smart alternators. Last summer on a trip through Northern California, my GZ Yeti 400 died from powering my CFX55 even while it was plugged it. What I found was that the car charger from Goal Zero with the selectable amp switch set it 5 amp was shutting down.

What was occurring was the GZ 12v charger was shutting off due the alternator dropping voltage (smart alternator). Basically, the lower voltage on the alternator (around 11.5v) was below the charging threshold on GZ adapter.

My question is could I just us the BCDC charger on the Anderson input the keep the Goal Zero topped up when in-motion and still get the full rated input? Right now, I can only get the 5amp input on the GZ due to the alternator not wanting to putout sufficient voltage from time to time. Usually on long drives with little to no load on the engine or climate control otherwise.

 

[emulous74]

I would check the upfitter's guide to your particular vehicle. I know with my Chevrolet ZR2 Bison, there are several ways to keep the "smart" alternator to output at full power. Thing like turning on the headlights or turning on the "electric" defroster, etc.

If you want to go through the BCDC route, Redarc customer service is pretty good and would ask them that question, my concern is the Yeti input is regulated and the BCDC is regulated as well, so not sure if it would work as you intend.

 

[john61ct]

The whole point of a DC-DC charger is to overcome that issue with modern vehicle alternators.

Its output should be just fine as "12V nominal" input to the powerpak

If the powerpak circuitry limits the power it draws that should not cause any issue with the DC-DC

 

[jprovence01]

I would check the upfitter's guide to your particular vehicle. I know with my Chevrolet ZR2 Bison, there are several ways to keep the "smart" alternator to output at full power. Thing like turning on the headlights or turning on the "electric" defroster, etc.

If you want to go through the BCDC route, Redarc customer service is pretty good and would ask them that question, my concern is the Yeti input is regulated and the BCDC is regulated as well, so not sure if it would work as you intend.

Bison owner here too. And I'm aware of the upfitter guide and have read through it. Turning on the specific items doesn't always throw the alternator into high gear. The particular instance was a 105F and a very long 8+ hour drive. Truck was cruising with a 70F in the cab and doing just fine. So the alternator had settled into the economy mode since I wasn't asking for much at that point. The Dometic was plugged in the GZ, which was being charged by the truck, well until it drops below 12v and settled around 11.8 or so. I just eventually bypassed the GZ and just plugged the fridge into the truck (Optima H6 Yellow Top) and I didn't have any more issues after that. Just irritates me that I can't get the full 120watts out of the truck because the alternator won't output a consistence 14.7.

Ill probably the the 25amp Redarc BCDC and a Yeti for the Alucab. Looks like what I thought would work out just fine and keep the Yeti topped up and avoid all the issues that the alternator could pose for the GZ 12v car charger.

 

[jprovence01]

The whole point of a DC-DC charger is to overcome that issue with modern vehicle alternators.

Its output should be just fine as "12V nominal" input to the powerpak

If the powerpak circuitry limits the power it draws that should not cause any issue with the DC-DC

Makes sense and this is what I figured. The Redarc will present a constant 12v 25amp feed the Yeti can draw from giving full input power.

 

[67cj5]

The early Yeti's were not voltage regulated meaning you could drain them down in to the danger zone, I have a few Lithium Packs and when I am Travelling I plug the fridge into either the Vehicles Cigar socket or Plug my Dometic PLB in to the Cigar socket and plug the fridge in to the PLB so when I get to where I'm going the PLB is always Full, Doing this even with a smart Alternator has zero effect and the PLB always Charges and the fridge always runs,

If your smart Alternator messes about try hooking the DC to DC to the Vehicles Battery and then the Vehicle will see the voltage being used and the alternator will compensate for that, and when the 2nd battery is full the DC to DC will shut off and the Vehicles battery will tell the Alternator to Calm down and act normally,

Because their way it is hooked up to the Alternator seems to be ignoring the DC to DC.