Refurbishing a Wildernest

[Rando]

I just found (after months of searching) a Wildernest for my '99 Tacoma. In the general the Wildernest is in great condition. The tent is water tight, and only smells slightly funky and there aren't any major cracks in the fiberglass. In general I absolutely love this thing. However there are a couple of things that could be fixed up. Seeing the worlds foremost experts on Wildernests seem to haunt this forum (DaveinDenver I am looking at you), I thought I would ask a couple of questions.

Firstly any suggestions for replacing rusted screws on the lid hinges? Of the five hinges the two at the ends are down to about 2 screws each into the lid part. The missing screws have rusted through and sheered off in the captive nuts. Any ideas on how to get these out to replace them? Or are the nuts likely to be rusted out as well? Is it possible to replace them without removing these without removing the tent?

Any suggestions for replacement poles? The originals (conduit with with pipe clamps) are cheesy in the extreme and I would like to replace them with something easier to adjust for uneven ground.

Finally, what do you all do for lighting in the tent? I have been thinking about adding some warm white LED strips to the main ridge pole:
http://www.oznium.com/thin-waterproof-ribbon

 

[DaveInDenver]

Yes, the nuts are probably rusted inside. Not much you can do with the lid still attached, it's gonna be a PITA repair. Sorry to say, the best thing is bite the bullet and do it right with a boatload of brand new stainless bolts and nuts... I'd use new stainless hinges and bolts, preferably using National Hardware's stainless hinges (since I know they are really 18-8 stainless and not some unknown cheap knock-off) with 18-8 (ideally 316 or 304) stainless fasteners.

Poles, the original ones work pretty well and I haven't personally found anything aftermarket that fits the brackets as well as the necked down ones they supplied. Cheesy? I dunno, other than the plastic thumb screw breaking off the hose clamps, they work pretty well. But remember that they are not necessary from a structural standpoint and so there's no need to overthink them. I personally find using a Hi-Lift under the passenger's side slide to be much more stable than any poles anyway.

 

[KEENO]

Hey Rando...

My Wildernest has a thicker tubing than conduit (does look like conduit tho) and the Tube is joined to the angle elbow with sheet metal screws, not clamps. Kind of like a set screw would be used. Would this practice work in your application? If so, you might want to Loc-Tite them in place.... Mine fall out sometimes.

Also... If you ever need the replacement Fiberglass Poles for the roof pitch, I used old golf pins/flags for mine and had the ends turned down to fit the ridge pole and side wall poles.

I also got carried away and replaced the side latches a couple of years ago with a set of Lever Assist Latches from Southco.
http://www.southco.com/class/37-lever-assisted-latches-7422.html

Sorry.... I don't have experience changing out the hinges. Mine look like standard Stanley Door Hinges on my Wildernest.

Here's a Wildernest on a First Gen Dodge:
View attachment 26179

KEENO

 

[KEENO]

Oh.... Those Poles

Hey.... I have a set of poles I'll "Pay Forward" to go home for the cost of shipping. I never use them and they look like new!

Just a Thought.... What if you used an adjustable 'turnbuckle' type arrangement on the Aircraft Cable to adjust for a level sleeping platform? Just a thought.... I use leveling blocks under the passenger side tires to level when required.

KEENO

 

[DaveInDenver]

Hey Rando...

My Wildernest has a thicker tubing than conduit (does look like conduit tho) and the Tube is joined to the angle elbow with sheet metal screws, not clamps. Kind of like a set screw would be used. Would this practice work in your application? If so, you might want to Loc-Tite them in place.... Mine fall out sometimes.

It's my experience that the tent frame really is just schedule 40 galvanized tubing and silver-painted copper plumbing elbows.

But I think Rando is talking about the outrigger poles, not the frame.

BTW, those rubber hold-downs are a significant reduction in clamping force from the originals. The latches WilderNest used had about 350 lbs of clamping force and those Southco one have about 22 lbs. I've had a latch pop open and I've heard of people having their lids open, so I think having latches that hold down is important. I think the originals were over strong, but under secure on the catch part, so there's definitely improvement to be found there IMHO.

 

[KEENO]

It's my experience that the tent frame really is just schedule 40 galvanized tubing and silver-painted copper plumbing elbows.

Copy.... I think I'm caught up & on the the correct page now. <see above>


RE: Latches: Mine were shot when I got the Wildernest and had already been rigged. I've had great luck with these Southco Latches and purchased the Series 270 (Stainless Steel) ones. The have a very agressive detent that holds them in the locked position and are rated for 400 lbs each. No unexpected "opening issues" since 2003 when I put them on.
Here's the specs: (scroll to the bottom for the 270 Series)
http://www.southco.com/resources/documents/37.en.pdf

Unsolicited advice I know....

KEENO

 

[DaveInDenver]

Copy.... I think I'm caught up & on the the correct page now. <see above>


RE: Latches: Mine were shot when I got the Wildernest and had already been rigged. I've had great luck with these Southco Latches and purchased the Series 270 (Stainless Steel) ones. The have a very agressive detent that holds them in the locked position and are rated for 400 lbs each. No unexpected "opening issues" since 2003 when I put them on. The 270 Series actually have a Stainless Steel Strap that runs throught the center of the latch and then are rubber coated over the strap to give the appearance of being rubber.

Here's the specs: (scroll to the bottom for the 270 Series)
http://www.southco.com/resources/documents/37.en.pdf

Unsolicited advice I know....

KEENO

Didn't read far enough down, I just saw the rubber draw latches on the first page and assumed that's what you used. That's what I get for not reading enough.

 

[Rando]

Thanks for the offer Keeno, but I was referring to the stabilizer poles that go under the lid when it is open. Mine definitely works fin in my driveway without said poles, however they may be useful if the parking area is less than flat. I am not sure if the hardware on my poles is original, but it is geld together with ordinary pipe clamps with no thumb screws, necessitating a screwdriver to adjust them.

Hey Rando...

My Wildernest has a thicker tubing than conduit (does look like conduit tho) and the Tube is joined to the angle elbow with sheet metal screws, not clamps. Kind of like a set screw would be used. Would this practice work in your application? If so, you might want to Loc-Tite them in place.... Mine fall out sometimes.

Also... If you ever need the replacement Fiberglass Poles for the roof pitch, I used old golf pins/flags for mine and had the ends turned down to fit the ridge pole and side wall poles.

I also got carried away and replaced the side latches a couple of years ago with a set of Lever Assist Latches from Southco.
http://www.southco.com/class/37-lever-assisted-latches-7422.html

Sorry.... I don't have experience changing out the hinges. Mine look like standard Stanley Door Hinges on my Wildernest.

Here's a Wildernest on a First Gen Dodge:
View attachment 26179

KEENO

 

[Rando]

I was afraid of that! If it is going to be that serious a job I will probably wait until I have spent a number on nights in it and see if there are any other jobs to be done at the same time. I was considering repainting it to match the truck as well, so that might be a good excuse to strip off all of the hardware some time in the future.

Thanks for all the excellent info in this and other threads about the wildernest!

Yes, the nuts are probably rusted inside. Not much you can do with the lid still attached, it's gonna be a PITA repair. Sorry to say, the best thing is bite the bullet and do it right with a boatload of brand new stainless bolts and nuts... I'd use new stainless hinges and bolts, preferably using National Hardware's stainless hinges (since I know they are really 18-8 stainless and not some unknown cheap knock-off) with 18-8 (ideally 316 or 304) stainless fasteners.

Poles, the original ones work pretty well and I haven't personally found anything aftermarket that fits the brackets as well as the necked down ones they supplied. Cheesy? I dunno, other than the plastic thumb screw breaking off the hose clamps, they work pretty well. But remember that they are not necessary from a structural standpoint and so there's no need to overthink them. I personally find using a Hi-Lift under the passenger's side slide to be much more stable than any poles anyway.

 

[DaveInDenver]

Thanks for the offer Keeno, but I was referring to the stabilizer poles that go under the lid when it is open. Mine definitely works fin in my driveway without said poles, however they may be useful if the parking area is less than flat. I am not sure if the hardware on my poles is original, but it is geld together with ordinary pipe clamps with no thumb screws, necessitating a screwdriver to adjust them.

You mention uneven parking spots. The poles will not support much weight over time and so you need to level the truck no matter if you use the poles or not. I personally don't use the poles all that much normally. I carry a variety of boards, a couple of lengths of 4x4, 2x4 and 1x4 that I stack under a wheel or two to get the truck level enough. Also using local geology (i.e. big rocks!) can help level the truck. The pole are to keep the truck from rocking when two people are tossing and turning in the penthouse. To minimize that I prefer to put the Hi-Lift under the slider and put a little pressure on it. Just one crank past the point the saddle touches the slider, although you can level the truck with this technique to pretty good effect. This makes the camper rock solid, wwwaaayyy more stable than using the poles. If you try to level the truck with the poles you will untension the A-frame and cables, which is the primary way the WilderNest supports itself (through the wires that cross up and over to the other side). You want those cables taut and the driver's side of the pickup box taking the cantilevered load from the outside of the bed. This is also why I strongly recommend people bolt their WilderNests to the bed rails!

 

[redpoint welder]

How about the seal that goes around the lid? Does anyone know where I can get a new one of those? I also have some poles I could donate. I never use them.

 

[Bike Zen]

Fiberglass Pole Length&gt;&gt;

Can someone measure their interior poles an let me know what the size is?

(Mine came without them and I was going to order replacement fiberglass tent poles)

Thanks in advance!

David

 

[gwittman]

How about the seal that goes around the lid? Does anyone know where I can get a new one of those?

Contact Astro in Garnett, KS. That is were I got mine when I refurbished my WilderNest. I am not sure they would sell it to you but it is worth a try. I have a brother that works for them and he was able to get it for me. I don't know what they use that seal for but it worked for me.