reman booster input shaft too short

[ejames82]

Hello,


I will be asking my question at other forums as well. I will share any relevant info I obtain.

because of strange test results and intermittent brake pedal, I purchased a new brake booster and master cylinder. I bought the master cylinder from napa. I am assuming the master cylinder is exactly what I need. my vehicle is a 96 land cruiser, 80's series.





here is the problem:

I received the booster, centric 88374. I purchased it from rockauto. the rockauto part number is 16088374.


the part looks great. it actually looks like it will go right in, but...


THE INPUT SHAFT THAT GOES TO THE PEDAL IS A CENTIMETER SHORTER THAN THE ORIGINAL BOOSTER. the original sticks out 13cm and the centric sticks out 12cm.
here are links to pictures, in case this site doesn't allow pictures.
http://postimg.org/image/pg8nus1xh/
http://postimg.org/image/f3d2uzoi1/



I haven't installed it. right now I am debating what I will do next. if I was to install it, it seems that the pedal would be further away, I would think, by a centimeter. perhaps this would cause the vehicle to have no brakes at all, though I don't think that would be the case.
I called rockauto and told them about it. their phone support is excellent, but they are just a distributor, they don't actually rebuild the parts. they couldn't give any info regarding the difference in the input shafts. I think they tried to contact the centric company, but were unable to do so. they did give me a website: centricparts.com

if I knew that I could easily exchange the input shaft from the original to the centric, and not void the warranty, I would make a go at it. I even told this to the rockauto person.

I am just wondering if there is something about these boosters that I am unaware of. like, for instance, perhaps the original booster would still have air in it that would make the shaft stick out a centimeter more, where the centric has no air in it. or something else about the device. just a thought. I know I am reaching.

maybe someone else on here has had the same type of thing happen and can tell what they did. my wife seems to think that I should put the part in and try it, and quite often she is right. she's not doing the work. and the work is nothing compared to getting into an accident.

this part is considerably cheaper than the comparable cardone part. I was really hoping that things would go smoothly, it would have been nice to get on here and say 'the part was perfect in every way, you get to save a few bucks'. who is to say that the cardone part wouldn't also be 12cm, the same as the centric.


any info or advice would be most appreciated.

 

[ejames82]

I took apart the part of the original booster where the input shaft enters the booster. I took pictures. if the site does not allow pictures, here are links to the pics.
I was hoping to find some way to exchange or adjust the shaft and/or assembly. It doesn't appear that it can easily be done. I even pulled on the shaft, but not too hard.
obviously, the manufacturer doesn't want the average joe to make changes.

I did not attempt to disassemble the remanufactured booster. there didn't seem to be a reason if I couldn't disassemble the original as well.


http://postimg.org/image/aasyw7r1h/
http://s26.postimg.org/jvclj3gdl/IMG_1555.jpg
look down in the input shaft spring

http://postimg.org/image/3lmfg75ph/
http://s26.postimg.org/uw7qo48mh/IMG_1557.jpg
side view input shaft

http://postimg.org/image/3znrfspt1/
http://s26.postimg.org/ssxbgg8tl/IMG_1558.jpg
el-cheapo clip

 

[ejames82]

I decided to install the booster when I was told by a member at another site that he used a centric booster. it appears to be working ok. I put some 'chocks' in the yard to stop the car from moving in case the brakes didn't work and moved the car back and forth many, many times. and really put them to the test. I took it for a ride and the brakes stop the vehicle like they are supposed to.

there were some things that I didn't like about the experience (info for anybody else about to do this job):
1. the fact that the pushrod was 1cm short (of course).
2. the hidden screw that is under the reservoir. if it's not removed, you can't remove the reservoir. thank goodness the wife came out and saw me struggling with it and grabbed the new master cylinder and checked it out. the screw requires a very short stubby phillips screwdriver and I used vicegrips to clamp on to it for more turning leverage.
3. there is a bracket that secures the throttle cable that comes off the master cylinder that requires removing one 12mm bolt. it doesn't fit tight on the new master cylinder. seems that the new one is now not as big around.
4. due to the difference in the pushrod length. the brake light switch had to be re-adjusted. fortunately, this type of switch does not screw in like some I have seen. no need to disconnect the switch. just break loose and tighten the 14mm nuts.