Renogy kit or mix and match?

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
Someone here on ExPo is selling both a Morningstar and a Midnite Solar MPPT controllers.
 

ajmaudio

Adventurer
OK, I've been working constantly, so haven't been able to address this really, but it looks like I'm going to go with a Suniva 320w, 36v panel. Power bank as of yet to be determined, but probably 2 6v batteries. What's a good MPPT controller to couple with this panel? I was looking at that eco-worthy 20a controller, but it says max 24v. Will it work with the panel at a reduced amp/h? Any suggestions for something more appropriate?
Thanks again, folks.

If you are going to be buying nice new batteries, and relying on this solar system I would recommend you pic something a little better than the ecoworthy line. Morningstar, Bogart, or Victron. Seen too many weird issues with the midnight stuff try it myself. The extra battery life a proper, and properly programmed controller will give you is worth trh price of admission. Get pwm in one of these brands if you need to be nicer to the budget.
 

Ducky's Dad

Explorer
Thanks for the tip on Solar Blvd in Norco. I just called them and the guy was very helpful. I''m beginning to think about a simple solar panel that I can toggle between my starting battery and my house batteries, depending on where I am.
 
What are the benefits of 2 x 6V batteries over 1 x 12V battery? Also, my boss here has a Ctek D250S which acts as a smart switch and has an MPPT controller built in. While I have the midnite solar on the way, the ctek has some desirable traits. It charges the starting battery preferentially off solar, and keeping that floating, will then charge the deep cycle bank. It'll also act as an isolator when the engine isn't running. Is there something I can get that does that? If not, recommendations for a good isolator or smart option between starting battery and bank?
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
I could be misremembering (and after the load of good brandy I took on last night to help kill a stomach flu, that's a real possibility), but don't you need the smartpass add on to the ctek 250 to charge the engine battery?

For an isolator, have a look at the Samlex ACR-160. But it's either/or. Can't use the 250 and an isolator both.

Also, now that I think about it, the 250 is mppt, BUT has a fairly narrow voltage/amperage input range..and didn't you say you've got a lot of PV?

Midnite charge controller (one of the best, disregard negative rumors), plus ACR-160...I'd be very happy to have that setup.
 
I'm kinda overwhelmed by the sheer amount of batteries out there. Can anyone recommend either a good pair of 6v or a single 12? Looking for a decent mix of performance, longetivity and value. Maybe around the 200-250ah size? They'll be inside the van, so AGM (I wish I could go lithium and build my own 18650 cells, as I have access to tons of used laptop batteries, but I don't know what I'm doing). I'll have the 310w panel to the Midnite solar controller, samlex acr 160, and power coming off the 150a alternator. Draw will be a whynter 85 quart 12v freezer, and occasional laptop, microwave (engine running) phone charging use.
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
Can't go wrong with Trojan, Lifeline, East Penn, Deka.

For that many amp*hours in a single battery, you're talking 8D size. That's a heavy chunk to move around. Might be better breaking into smaller pieces.

How about a pair of Trojan T-105s in 6v, which I'm pretty sure they make in AGM now.
 
That's the exact battery I was looking at, but I kept seeing conflicting descriptions of it being flooded or AGM. Good to know there are both,and it's not just bad info.
 

ajmaudio

Adventurer
Crown or US Battery will get you trojan performance without the price tag... using us battery myself for 2 years....very happy with it
 
OK folks, I've assembled most of the stuff.
Midnite Solar kid controller w/ whizbang jr
Samlex AC160
310w Canadian Solar panel
2 x 225AH 6V Crown Deep Cycle batteries
But I don't have cabling or circuit breaker / fuses yet. The run from my starter battery to my bank looks to be about 12 feet with bends and routing. The samlex and a circuit breaker will be in the positive lead. My alternator is 150 amps. What guage cable and what circuit breaker should I get for that run?
The inputs on the controller and the instruction manual says 10 guage cable for the panel to the controller and then to the batteries, what do you think? Do I need breakers between the panel and the controller and controller and batteries as well? I know I need one between the batteries and the inverters.
Thanks again, folks!
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
#10 will be fine for the solar. You'll need a 30a breaker to protect that wire.

For the battery to battery call around some local welding supply shops till you find one that has welding cable on spools and can cut what you need and crimp on the terminals. For 150a get 1/0 (one ought), and a 150a breaker.
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
Considering your alternator (assuming OEM) will never output 150A for more than a few minutes anyway, As dwh stated, 1/0 is beyond adequate. as welding cable has some higher ampacity over typical building wire, & were you needing to squeeze numbers, You could easily go as small as nr.2.
With the distance between batteries, you should use 2 circuitbreakers, one at each battery connection.


Often its fairly safe to omit this one. Small systems anyway.
Your situation, "310watt panel" is most likely a nominal 24-36 volts, so at its absolute maximum output, That module cant produce enough energy to damage a 10awg conductor. ("module" btw, is more correct term... Is my pocket protector showing ?? )

Further, A fuse correctly placed in this circuit, it would be adjacent to the module where its not readily accessible.


YES ! Place a fuse or your favourite OCPD in this circuit. As close to the battery as practical.
Your solar controller probably suggests a size for this one. If not, & assuming 10awg conductors, 30amp max.

I agree with all this.

Was in a hurry before, so just popped off a quick answer.
 

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