Replacing Front Wheel Bearings on Gen III

[Inyo_man]

Soak the nut/threads in PB Plaster for several days.
A I/2" impact driver works great, but it doesn't sound like you have that...
When things great tough, I grab a big piece of old exhaust pipe (scrap from restoring an '86 Toy. p/u) and have at it.
As you have figured, you'll need something more than 20". Do you have a High-Lift? The handle makes a great cheater bar. Heat it as a last resort, IMHO.

Good idea replacing the bushings on the front end! You are just replacing the UCA and LCA bushings, right...not the entire assembly?

Cheers

 

[Monty03]

Soak the nut/threads in PB Plaster for several days.
A I/2" impact driver works great, but it doesn't sound like you have that...
When things great tough, I grab a big piece of old exhaust pipe (scrap from restoring an '86 Toy. p/u) and have at it.
As you have figured, you'll need something more than 20". Do you have a High-Lift? The handle makes a great cheater bar. Heat it as a last resort, IMHO.

Good idea replacing the bushings on the front end! You are just replacing the UCA and LCA bushings, right...not the entire assembly?

Cheers

Right now I just have my garage. However, on the base that I work on there is a skill center where I think I'm just going to take the truck. They have lifts to use and a myriad of tools and huge extension bars and wrenches. I'm replacing literally everything!

- Bilstein Front and Rear shocks
- Lovells springs
- New upper and Lower control arms whole assembly
- New Inner and Outer tie rods with new boot
- New sway bar end links
- All new hardware including alignment bolt on lower CA.
- And both front Hub bearings

This is a massive project but with over 200k on all componence I feel like doing it all at once will save time, money and will make things last a lot longer. I'm heading for 300k with the Mont so I'm sure it will feel super nice once finished.

 

[Inyo_man]

Nice!
It will transform how the rig drives for sure.
...I'm curious...why are you replacing the control arms? Are they cracked or bent? These units are pretty stout and rarely need to be replaced unless they're damaged (usually from off highway driving).
Are you installing the B6 shocks?
Cheers

 

[Monty03]

Nice!
I will transform how the rig drives for sure.
...I'm curious...why are you replacing the control arms? Are they cracked or bent? These units are pretty stout and rarely need to be replaced unless they're damaged (usually from off highway driving).
Are you installing the B6 shocks?
Cheers

They are pretty rusty in some spots as well as the hardware. For the price of all new bushings and the quote I got to press out the old ones and press new ones in I just spend a bit more $$ and got all new Arms that are genuine Mitsubishi Parts. Not sure if you have used Partsouq before but I feel I could build a whole new Montero from that site. They ship from Duibai but living in HI I got them fairly quick. Living on HI labor costs and rates are ridiculous and some specialty shops are sort of hard to come by. Just piece of mind too that they are new and fresh. Yes they are the B6 shows in the photo!

 

[Inyo_man]

Partsouq is a great site. I have sourced parts from them many times.
Another good source is Amayama, although delivery is reportedly slow from them due to the Covi.
What is the spring rate for the Lovells' you purchased?
Cheers

 

[Monty03]

Partsouq is a great site. I have sourced parts from them many times.
Another good source is Amayama, although delivery is reportedly slow from them due to the Covi.
What is the spring rate for the Lovells' you purchased?
Cheers

Yeah I just found out about Partsouq from Marco at LUSO overland. He hooked me up with the suspension and assembled them for me, a service he's no offering. I just went with the standard height and standard Spring rate. Nothing lifted or HD really needed. I measured my old spring and shock height and I'm at about a 1'' sag in the front and rear due to the worn shocks and springs and the spring pads being pretty word out. With stock height and spring rate I will gain back about 1.25'' and about another maybe .25 with the new polly tough spring pads. I think it will be perfect. I talked to a guy who did the exact set up and he was super happy with it. I only plan to run 265/75/16 tires just a touch under 32'' so this will fill the wheel wells nicely while not rubbing.

The only thing I really run is a roof tent but it's not on there 24/7 and some camping gear in the back such as table, some tough boxes, camera gear and maybe my dog. With stock shocks it's fine so I'm only guessing with the upgrade it will be perfect. I don't have or plan on steel bumpers or winch or anything like that.

 

[Inyo_man]

Sorry about the "thread highjack" y'all.

 

[Monty03]

Nice!
It will transform how the rig drives for sure.
...I'm curious...why are you replacing the control arms? Are they cracked or bent? These units are pretty stout and rarely need to be replaced unless they're damaged (usually from off highway driving).
Are you installing the B6 shocks?
Cheers

I ended up buying a whole new OE Upper and Lower Arms from Partsouq, along with inner and outer tierods, sway bar end links, and after getting some quotes around hawaii and the time it would take them to push out the old bushings and down time the price difference wasn't that much. My current CA's are pretty rusted up and look a bit worn so just figured it would be easiest.

 

[Monty03]

So I came back to report I was missing some pieces and wanted to get some other parts too and do everything at once. Still couldn’t get the large hub nut loose. I just want to make certain the driver side nut shown in the photo it still is lefty loosy correct!?! Not reverse threads? It’s a standard clockwise tighten counter to loosen? I’ve heard or seen on some vehicles that the driver side is reversed because that would in theroy kee it tight while driving forward. Just want to double check when I get access to a larger breaker bar I don’t end up tightening it more!!