Rock Rings

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
fantastic point. I know better than to make outlandish statements but I went and done it anyway, huh :elkgrin:

I never weighed my rangie but it was probably much lighter than the standard armored-up rover config. with 235/85 and 255/85 the sweet spot for me seemed to be around 13 psi.
No worries, we all step in it sooner or later! I've done it more than my share of times....
I am very much not a fan of all the aftermarket steel wheels, ...
I'm curious as to why?
Personally I do not like the typical black "Rock Crawler" wheel, but that is purely a cosmetic thing combined with a dislike for their massive weight more than anything else.
 

SeaRubi

Explorer
No worries, we all step in it sooner or later! I've done it more than my share of times....

you guys will have to forgive me; i've been hitting expo to distract my mind off solitary confineme.. errr, work and going on about 2hrs of sleep each night this week. been a long one.

I'm curious as to why?
Personally I do not like the typical black "Rock Crawler" wheel, but that is purely a cosmetic thing combined with a dislike for their massive weight more than anything else.

There are a lot of things one can find lacking with Land Rovers, but the factory wheels are one of the great strengths of these trucks. In just about every case, the factory made steel and alloy wheels are better made, have thicker centers, and are arguably much more durable than any of the popular aftermarket wheels.

the short of it:

* heavier built. nearly all of the stock LR steel wheels are heavier than the common aftermarket steel wheels available to us. that's basically two: the procomp wheels and the american racing wheels.

* secondary bead retainer - the LR wheels incorporate a secondary bead retainer on the rim, so that if you blow-out the bead will catch on the secondary lip and not roll off of the wheel. I can testify to the safety of this having had a blowout at 75 and barely noticing!

* nicely chamfered lug-nut and mating surfaces to stay trued up. all the genuine lug nuts are high quality items and the tapered surfaces ensure that the wheels are centered properly on the hub.

In the case of the older pattern wheels, NATO/Wolf rims are actually about twice as thick (if not 3x as thick? it's impressive) in the centers compared to anything else aftermarket. they are beefy suckers used on UK MOD trucks and NATO LR vehicles, hence the popular name. If you want a steel wheel that could likely survive a mortar hit this is it.

Aside from the nato's, just about all of the LR steel wheels as supplied on the coilers are great. They're well built and in most cases (if not all) heavier than the procomp or AR wheels that get sold. There's a 5 spoke "disco spare" steelie available that looks fantastic, I think:

stl72148u.jpg


The early Rangie wheels also have a distinctive look and are quite strong. Sadly these are hard to find in the states, but are in abundance pretty much everywhere else that has RR's

1972_Range_Rover_Classic_Land_Suffix_A_2_door_SUV_Front_1.jpg


After these, there are two other good steel wheels - the almost solid Defender steel rims, and then the completely solid steel rims.

defender%20pickup.jpg



Likewise, the new shape rangie (P38) and Disco II genuine steel wheels are very solid, but there is only one model of them and they are spendy. The examples I have seen (unmounted) did look much stouter than a set of procomp "xTreme" steel wheels I'd ordered, and various other sets of the usual steel wheels I've seen on friend's rigs. I ended up selling my procomps after mail ordering them brand new. For reference these are LR part number ANR5829. I had a pic but can't find it now. maybe later i can update.

cheers
-ike
 
Last edited:

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
Which rock crawler wheels are you referring to that are heavy? I haven't found any yet.
Non LR application. No idea what they were as they came on the truck when I bought it. I suspect that they were ARE's, but don't know for sure.

Ah! I can see not liking aftermarket wheels in comparison to the LR OE parts.
 

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
Ike, I agree with most of what you just wrote. The problem is, I have a D2 with a different bolt pattern than the earlier coilers, so the Wolf wheels don't fit. I have thought about getting spacers and using them, since I wouldn't mind pushing the wheels out 1" anyway but...

Anyway, for stock fitment, AB has these, which appears to be a "genuine" wheel.

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/RRC114560MUW.cfm

I actually have 1 Ranger Rover spare steel wheel already, and I wonder if these are the same. I've thought about trying to find 4 more P38 spares, but I'm not sure if they are strong due to them being spares.

They also have these, and I'm not sure the details on these:

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/3030A.cfm

NTSQD, do you happen to know, are lug nuts heat treated, or anything? Just wondering, as I'll want to change nuts with the wheels, but there are few sources for LR nuts. It wouldn't be hard to make my own on the lathe. Some hex stock, part off, drill, tap and cut the taper. Done.
 

SeaRubi

Explorer
Rob, the P38 spare wheel should be the same as part # I listed above. there's nothing particularly different for the LR lug-pattern wheels from either american racing or from procomp. head down to your local 4x4 shop sometime and check a set of them out, then make your own notes compared to the P38 spare wheel. found a couple of pics - you should see the PN stamped on the wheel as shown. I'm interested to see if yours is different?

edit: PN RRC114560MUW is the same as ANR5829, just painted silver instead of black. (from your first link). I am not certain whose wheels AB is sourcing in the other pic. I think those are the american racing wheels but it's a WAG.
 

Attachments

  • p38wheel1.jpg
    p38wheel1.jpg
    661.9 KB · Views: 13
  • p38wheel2.jpg
    p38wheel2.jpg
    644.6 KB · Views: 11
Last edited:

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
Rob,
I don't believe that they are HT'd. Those that I've had issues with certainly were not. They're not carp steel, but they're not hard either.

I recall that the LR studs are surprisingly large, is it an expensive deal to just buy the nuts? Rust would make me hesitant to make them w/o sending them out for plating.

Maybe you can find something in Dorman's catalogs?
https://www.dormanproducts.com/catalog/hardware2006/173-178_Sec10_Part8.pdf

https://www.dormanproducts.com/catalog/hardware2006/179-184_Sec10_Part9.pdf

https://www.dormanproducts.com/catalog/hardware2006/185-190_Sec10_Part10.pdf
 

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
Ike, thanks, I'll check that out. Probably is the way to go. Just find 4 more. So you think those are significantly stronger than the Pro-Comp/ARE/etc?

NTSQD, you just know the LR nuts had to be pretty unique. M14-2.0, with a conical seat, not sure of the angle. I see Dorman has one offering.

There's also these:

http://www.expeditionexchange.com/cart/product.php?productid=19082&cat=0&page=2

I'd be into it for about $100 by the time I got 25 of them. Plus the hubcaps. And I don't think I want hubcaps, just one more thing to fall off.

And then these, but again, don't know the seat angle.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-7540024/

Should almost move this conversation into the LR forum... but it's going so much smoother here! :coffeedrink:
 

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
I'd agree that is the industry standard. But it IS a Land Rover. ;)

I'd like to measure it, but don't have the tool.
 
Last edited:

SeaRubi

Explorer
Ike, thanks, I'll check that out. Probably is the way to go. Just find 4 more. So you think those are significantly stronger than the Pro-Comp/ARE/etc?

I most certainly do, but it's a conviction based on my own visual comparison of each in the flesh, and what I perceive to be advantages in the design. As to the design - look at how the LR wheel is crowned in the center. Now look at how flat the aftermarkets are and how dinky the centers look overall.

I do not have any empirical evidence based on experience for the P38 wheels, but I can tell you that a friend with a DII blew a bead and rolled the tire off the rim relatively easily on aftermarkets while aired down trying to winch me out of a bad stuck. You should still go check some out yourself before committing.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
188,694
Messages
2,909,176
Members
230,892
Latest member
jesus m anderson
Top