Rooftop Tents and Toppers - Experiences and Suggestions

[Bravo1782]

Hey Guys,

So here's the situation: I have a CVT Mt. Rainier, which I love. I ran it on some Vortex Rhino Rack roof Bars over my cab for a while on my 2011 F-150, and it seemed to work well enough, but for reasons I won't go into here, I really wanted to move it over my topper. Also, it turns out that Rhino Rack specifically says they do NOT suggest those bars for a RTT (oops). I have a really crappy unicover safari II topper...I'm very unimpressed by it. I'm currently running a Vantech P3000 topper rack, which I like well enough...but I would MUCH rather get a topper with windoor toolboxes and an integrated rack. The issue I have is that I either get mixed answers or the run-around from different companies on whether or not their topper will support the weight of a RTT and two people.

Talked DIRECTLY with ARE. They said they do not have any plans for making a CX-HD topper (the one with the aluminum skeleton) for my truck ever. Seems weird, considering how many 09-14 F-150s are on the market, but whatever. They also said they would not recommend putting that kind of weight on any of their toppers.

Talked to LEER reps, and keep getting mixed answers. Mostly get a "we wouldn't suggest that" answers.

Have a message out to ATC toppers; still waiting for reply.

I think snugtop has a topper that supports 500lbs, but I don't know that it'll have the other features that I want.

Anyone have any experience with this? Any comments?

I recognize that if I could get over the convenience of a topper, I would have a lot of hardcore options. It wouldn't take me any time at all to build a rack that would go over my truck bed and provide all the heavy-duty-ness I would need for an RTT. I just prefer having a clean, dry, cavernous storage area under my RTT to store hear. Also, I daily drive my truck so I need to keep it flexible. I just prefer some kind of closed topper.

Thanks guys!

 

[lqdchkn]

Access MFG?

http://tradesmantrucktops.com/

 

[yonah]

Hey Guys,

So here's the situation: I have a CVT Mt. Rainier, which I love. I ran it on some Vortex Rhino Rack roof Bars over my cab for a while on my 2011 F-150, and it seemed to work well enough, but for reasons I won't go into here, I really wanted to move it over my topper. Also, it turns out that Rhino Rack specifically says they do NOT suggest those bars for a RTT (oops). I have a really crappy unicover safari II topper...I'm very unimpressed by it. I'm currently running a Vantech P3000 topper rack, which I like well enough...but I would MUCH rather get a topper with windoor toolboxes and an integrated rack. The issue I have is that I either get mixed answers or the run-around from different companies on whether or not their topper will support the weight of a RTT and two people.

Talked DIRECTLY with ARE. They said they do not have any plans for making a CX-HD topper (the one with the aluminum skeleton) for my truck ever. Seems weird, considering how many 09-14 F-150s are on the market, but whatever. They also said they would not recommend putting that kind of weight on any of their toppers.

Talked to LEER reps, and keep getting mixed answers. Mostly get a "we wouldn't suggest that" answers.

Have a message out to ATC toppers; still waiting for reply.

I think snugtop has a topper that supports 500lbs, but I don't know that it'll have the other features that I want.

Anyone have any experience with this? Any comments?

I recognize that if I could get over the convenience of a topper, I would have a lot of hardcore options. It wouldn't take me any time at all to build a rack that would go over my truck bed and provide all the heavy-duty-ness I would need for an RTT. I just prefer having a clean, dry, cavernous storage area under my RTT to store hear. Also, I daily drive my truck so I need to keep it flexible. I just prefer some kind of closed topper.

Thanks guys!

I was in a similar situation about two months ago. After getting fed up with the secondhand search and compromising on the options I wanted - I ordered a brand new Snugtop Rebel for my Tacoma and had it installed a week ago. I went with the factory installed Yakima tracks, Sportsman Package (500lb roof capacity - which is an upgraded package that can be added to most of their models if I'm not mistaken), keyless entry Prolock, double vented windoors, and the other normal options like a fold down front window and headliner. A topper/camper shell is a must for me as I have a drawer system, fridge, and water tank in the rear of the truck. My 70lb Pit/American Bull mix also rides in the back when he tags along on camping trips - so he needs to be out of the weather with access to fresh air (window vents).
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I have an Ironman RTT (similar to several other RTTs on the market - most models on the market are made at the same factory overseas). I decided to mount it via two Front Runner 1255mm - around 50" wide - load bars on top of the shell. I went with their 40mm feet (the shortest, lowest profile foot set offered by FR). I got the FR set new for $238 shipped; cheaper than a similar set of Yakima or Thule load bars, towers, and landing pads. The FR bars are also wider and sit considerably lower than a set of Thule/Yakima bars. They're a better solution for RTT mounting IMO. I'm going to mount the RTT this weekend as I had to fab up some wider 1/4" brackets out of plate steel - they paint has been drying for a few days. I know we own different vehicles, but I can get some detailed photos if you desire them.
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I'm digging the set up so far. Low, streamlined, and the reinforced roof is stout. I upgraded from a Leer 180 (raised roof) that was installed by the PO of my truck. I never liked the 180's "bubble appearance" and it mounted my RTT too high, around 9-10" above the top of my truck's cab - my MPGs and COG were effected considerably.
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For reference here are the products I used in my application:
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Snugtop Rebel: http://www.snugtop.com/product/rebel
*Sportsman Package option: http://www.snugtop.com/accessories/sportsmanspackage
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(2x) 1255mm (W) Load Bar: https://www.frontrunneroutfitters.com/en/us/1255mm-standard-slat-for-slimline-ii-tray.html
*call FR, they can sell you two bars with four end caps as a package deal, this saves you a few bucks over buying the end caps separately.
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(2x) 40mm Foot Set: https://www.frontrunneroutfitters.com/en/us/front-runner-foot-set-40mm.html
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Additionally, you'll need 8x Yakima square nuts for the tracks (available at eTrailer.com) and 8x M6x12mm bolts to attach the FR feet to the nuts (in the tracks). I believe FR uses M8 hardware, so it is not compatible with the Yakima system. The hardware cost me around $15 total.

 

[Bravo1782]

@Yonah, that is supremely helpful, actually! I'm going to look into the snugtop! You're right, different truck, but that's the same idea I'm going for. Need the topper, low profile, minimize height, and trust able structure. I'm going to get in touch with them and see what they can do!

@Iqdchkn, I'm going to look into these guys! As soon as I opened the page, I saw an M1101A topper and that instantly sucked me in (I have an M1101 trailer that I mostly use as a utility trailer.

Thanks guys! This is great!

Any other suggestions?

 

[yonah]

Also, keep in mind that your RTT's weight, and the weight of its occupants, are partially supported by the ladder when the tent is deployed. I've read that the load distribution is around 50/50 vehicle/ladder when the tent is open. I don't know how accurate this is, but it seems to be right in theory.

 

[TheFutur]

Also, keep in mind that your RTT's weight, and the weight of its occupants, are partially supported by the ladder when the tent is deployed. I've read that the load distribution is around 50/50 vehicle/ladder when the tent is open. I don't know how accurate this is, but it seems to be right in theory.

I'd argue much less than 50/50.

The ladder side of the tent is supported at two points, the ladder, and the hinge. If you sat in thr very center of the ladder side the hinge and the ladder would equally take 100% of your weight, so 50/50. The closer you move to the hinge the more weight the hinge takes which is transfered to your vehicle.

So if you sleep with you feet on the ladder side all the ladder is taking is roughly half the weight of the ladder side of the tent (so 1/4 of the tents weight) and the weight of your feet. The second you cross over that halfway mark the weight starts to mainly be placed on the hinge which transfers that you your roof racks. And on the non-ladder side most people sleep with their head on that end so it gets the weight of your torso, arms, and head which greatly make up the majority of your bodies weight compared to just your legs and feet.

BUT keep in mind all load rating are calculated for dynamic load which is when the vehicle is in motion, those forces are much greater than the static load once you're set up at camp so I wouldnt worry haha

 

[kurtwp]

@TheFutur. You mention dynamic load of the topper. Are you saying if the manufacture publishes that their topper can hand 500lbs on the roof that they are referring to dynamic load weight. So static weight for the load on the roof of a topper could be more?

Kurt

 

[lqdchkn]

@Yonah, that is supremely helpful, actually! I'm going to look into the snugtop! You're right, different truck, but that's the same idea I'm going for. Need the topper, low profile, minimize height, and trust able structure. I'm going to get in touch with them and see what they can do!

@Iqdchkn, I'm going to look into these guys! As soon as I opened the page, I saw an M1101A topper and that instantly sucked me in (I have an M1101 trailer that I mostly use as a utility trailer.

Thanks guys! This is great!

Any other suggestions?

If you like that style there is also www.caravancamper.com.

The Caravan style is a little more refined IMO but after talking to them about custom options (which there were firm on absolutely not doing what I wanted in my particular case) and then seeing their prices they aren't something that will work for what I'm thinking. But they may work out for you

 

[TheFutur]

@TheFutur. You mention dynamic load of the topper. Are you saying if the manufacture publishes that their topper can hand 500lbs on the roof that they are referring to dynamic load weight. So static weight for the load on the roof of a topper could be more?

Kurt

Yes most likely tons more! Think about having 500lbs on the roof and hitting a speed bump going 30km/hr. The amount of force probably easily doubles i bet, i dont know the science but I do know the basic concepts of dynamic vs. Static loads.

The manufacturer most likely wont give you a static limit for liabulity reasons but be assured that it is higher!

 

[dman93]

There's so much confusion about this topic, but at least in my area, I see RTT's on factory racks on Mini's, Imprezas, Golfs etc. I suppose those roofs could be pretty strong (federal rollover and crash regulations) but the racks are usually rated at 100-150 lbs max. Anyway, I have a Tepui RTT on two Yakima crossbars on tracks mounted to my ARE Z Series fiberglass shell. The towers for the crossbars attach to the tracks with two M5 screws and the tracks attach to the glass with 5 M5 or maybe 10-32 screws. Pretty light duty. The roof of the ARE shell is "reinforced" as part of the track package. I have almost 30K miles on my truck of which about 22K are with the tent on top, and about 20 -30 nights in the tent, usually with 2 of us. No problems. I actually think a bigger potential risk is pulling the rack UP out of the tracks, or the tracks UP out of the roof, when the tent is folded open and you're climbing in, if the ladder weren't supporting the overhanging weight. In summary, I think most racks and shells are strong enough to support 150-175 pounds weight when driving (i.e. dynamic); the weight with occupants is presumably static, and well within the safety factor of the design ... unless there's a lot of acrobatics in the tent.

 

[quadforce4]

I've worried about this myself, but everything I've read seems to make it a non-issue. I'll be putting a RTT on my ARE Z-series soon, and hopefully it'll be up there for a long while with no issues.

 

[TheFutur]

For whats its worth I spend a weekend with my tent on my base model cap and I hardly slept... I kept hearing creaking while trying to sleep and was just waiting to fall through the canopy haha

After that trip i went out and sourced this rack out for $250 and haven't had any issues since.

Edit: I should add my canopy had no good places to install the gutter mounts so they were positioned right above the windows so that could be the issue along with my canopy is 15 or so years old...

So a new canopy with a rail mount could be beyond fine! Just make sure its rated higher than your dynamic load, thats the biggy.

 

[pittsburgh]

Guys I've been trying to research a Snugtop Rebel vs A.R.E CX for my Tacoma with the following options;
Roof Rack
Drivers side windoor
Front slider
12v LED Light
Pop lock for my tailgate

Looks like the A.R.E saves me around $200-$250. Is the snugtop that much nicer and better quality than an A.R.E?

 

[Theoretician]

I had the same issue, finding decent weight ratings for camper shells, and gave up. Instead I got a Leitner rack that specified a 250lb offroad rating, 500lb highway rating, and 1000lb static rating. Then, I bolted some roofing panels to the sides and made myself a hatchback out of pipe and roofing panels. It's not water tight, but a thief is going to have to make a racket in order to get at what's inside.

I think the panels also managed to offset of the gas mileage lost with just the rack and the tent. From the dealer the truck was getting around 20.5mpg average, then around 17mpg with rack and tent, now around 19.5 with the panels.