Rotor/ Hub Wobble

[GORM]

A grinding noise developed quickly on the right front of my 2008 LR3 w/ 80k miles whenever I turn left. This happened very quickly ... like I heard a noise on a few left turns of my last few drives and then I all the sudden it will make a noise whenever I turn even slightly left. There is no noticeable noise when going right or straight and no hum that changes with speed. In retrospect, I think I felt some slight pulling to the left, but knew I was coming on on pad replacement on the fronts.

I put the truck on stands and did an inspection and with the removal or the wheel, I found a few things. (1) scoring on the inside brake pad and rotor, pads low but not dead yet (2) shaking the left arm of the front right lower control arm it had slight play, it moved, not significantly (3) grabbing the studs, I was able to shake the hub, not just the rotor but the entire hub. For #3: the tie rod and boot was really moving when I did this and the lower control arm ball joint did not move at all. I put the tire on and repeated the "shaking process" to the same affect with no movement of the ball joint but the tie rod.

Picture of part with motion. Note: I greased up bushings just before picture taken. Also, that is a black bungy cord on the right side holding caliper up.

Some questions: So I think this means lower control arms are ready for replacement but I do not think this is the only issue, I think there is something more wrong with the tie rod. Does the above support that logic? What else do I need to do to diagnosis? Can I replace the tie rods without doing the arms? I would be doing this only so I can get the truck road worthy and do the lower control arms when I have some more time.

CORRECTION: that's not tie rod, it is the axle with the boot I'm referring to. Looking like wheel bearing issue. Mention of tie rod above i believe is incorrect.

Thanks
Kent (and Mortimer)

 

[unseenone]

The lower Suspension are ball joint can be changed on the the suspension arm, or you can change the whole arm that comes with the ball joint. The inner / outer steering joints come as a complete kit.. I'd be suspicious of a wheel bearing (hub assembly) or CV joint.

Keep us posted.

 

[GORM]

So word is in .... Right front wheel bearing is shot. My mechanic (whom I trust more than my dentist) also noted the one on the other side is need of replacement and has some play and should be replaced. He indicated they do not have to be replaced in pairs but suggested it. I'm looking at $1100. CV joints are ok. He said this is not common but has seen before - heavy vehicle. I got truck w/ 69k and put 11k primarily city miles on it in a year.

It'll be a big week for Mortimer, he's also getting 18" rims and new BFG AT KO2's! Bring on the bumps.

 

[KyleT]

Wheel bearings going out on lr3 and sports is pretty common.


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[racehorse]

Wheel bearings going out on lr3 and sports is pretty common.


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Would be interested to hear more from the group about bearings wearing out on LR3s. Unscientific poll - they are heavy machines but the few mechanics I've chatted with and SCLR club members have not suggested the bearings going out are common in these vehicles, even when wheeled. Eager to hear other thoughts and contrarian views - I've got 130k on my 06 LR3 and no one (my indy mechanic in so cal and LR dealer) has suggested replacing the bearings but curious what others say.

 

[unseenone]

The only one I had go out, was due to the brake place not staking the nut. It worked loose and ruined the bearing, about 70k if I recall. I subsequently redid the entire suspension at 90k and saved that one for a spare. Just sent it to a friend who had one go out, right front as well.

 

[KyleT]

You shouldn't even mess with the axle nut doing the brakes....


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[unseenone]

Turned the Rotors...

 

[dsm02c]

Would be interested to hear more from the group about bearings wearing out on LR3s. Unscientific poll - they are heavy machines but the few mechanics I've chatted with and SCLR club members have not suggested the bearings going out are common in these vehicles, even when wheeled. Eager to hear other thoughts and contrarian views - I've got 130k on my 06 LR3 and no one (my indy mechanic in so cal and LR dealer) has suggested replacing the bearings but curious what others say.

I had the driver front go out at 63k on my LR3, never wheeled it hard but it did plenty of miles on washboards, dealer stated they see it pretty regularly.

 

[KyleT]

Turned the Rotors...

ya no need to mess with the axle nut. plus you arent supposed to turn rover rotors. find new shop, the clearley cant work on rovers....

unless you are talking about a D1, RRC or defender... anot not a RRS or LR3/4 or big body range rover.

 

[umbertob]

The front wheel hubs / bearings of my 2006 RRS went out at 100K (driver) and 150K (passenger side), respectively. I don't recall them being so expensive to replace honestly, my recollection is they were about $350-400 or so per side (OEM, including labor) from my indy shop, but that was quite a few years back. I off-roaded it fairly regularly. The front ones are packed in the hubs, so when the bearings go you replace the whole hub on LR3/4 and RRS, while I believe you can just replace the bearings on the rears although mine never needed replacement up until I sold the car at 210K miles.

 

[unseenone]

You can turn EBC Rotors... I did find another shop though... Idiots also left loose lug nuts..

The EBC sport drilled and slotted rotor will get you about 80k or more down the road if you stick with Green stuff pads only. Before each pad fitting, give the rotors a light turn to clean them up and true them and you will be good to go.