Fivespddisco
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Rover Gear and a Beer Ashcroft D2 CVs & 1/2 shafts
- Thread starter Fivespddisco
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michaels
Explorer
not saying it won't happen but the spider gears are the fuse....
R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
Justin, is it more common to break the rear axles than the fronts? I'd think so, since you tend to have more load trying to climb a hill with all the weight on the back end. Or is the front more delicate because of the CV?
I've been hoping to be able to afford axles and a locker for the rear end when the tax refund comes in. But maybe have to restrict that to the rear axles only. Just wondering if that's a useful upgrade, or just wait and do it all at once or what...
I've been hoping to be able to afford axles and a locker for the rear end when the tax refund comes in. But maybe have to restrict that to the rear axles only. Just wondering if that's a useful upgrade, or just wait and do it all at once or what...
I always get a kick outa these hard and fast rules...LOL
I have replaced broken axles on DII's with 32" tires.
I have replaced broken CV's on stock trucks...stuff breaks.
The Ashcroft stuff is stupid strong compared to stock stuff and is a great way to go. I would also say Justin is the best source for it.
S
Street Wolf
Guest
Then again I've ran 34's locked and no broken anything. There is no rule set in stone.
exactly my point.
In my pile of parts to fit, I have the Ashcroft shaft & CV kit along with rebuilt 3rd's from Justin. They have 4.11 R&P's and trutracs in them. I spoke to plenty of friends back in the UK.... who know their stuff. This combination is prob the best for a daily driver that see 5 months of snow in winter and summer wheel'in in the mountains.
As noted, you can break anything if you try hard enough... getting rid of the weak links just adds that bit of security for the situation when your 200km's from the nearest paved road. The Ashcroft gear is top notch... Dave Ashcroft is a really nice guy & supports his product fully.
As noted, you can break anything if you try hard enough... getting rid of the weak links just adds that bit of security for the situation when your 200km's from the nearest paved road. The Ashcroft gear is top notch... Dave Ashcroft is a really nice guy & supports his product fully.
hate to break it to you but the tru-tracs torque steer in snow alot and although they work and many people like them in general if you really spend 5 months a year on snow covered roads ARB's would have been a better choice.
Maybe the guys in the UK were not the best to ask when it comes to snowy conditions/
SeaRubi
Explorer
^^ agreed. especially if you have any lift and haven't castor corrected.
R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
I thought the TT's in front were supposed to help the truck track straight if it's lifted and not corrected?
SeaRubi
Explorer
didn't work out that way in my case. a friend w/ a DII and OME had great luck with his. another friend with a D1 and OME has no complaints, either. my RRC with 3" was a basket case - in fact, I'd say it was near deadly on the highway. admittedly, I had a pretty worn steering box that was compounding the problem.
The issue with the TT is that under load, it will pull like a freight train, say going up hill. as soon as you go into coast on flat pavement (at speed) or cruising down the hills, the TT is trying to find where to send the torque. Each time it swaps the torque bias, it would result in a violent jerk in the whole front-end of my truck, making compensating the for the steering a lot less than optimal.
if you want to run the TT in the front, it's critical to keep the lift down and the steering components as new/tight as can be. ditto for the radius arm bushes and rear trailing link bushes.
edit: a quick few words about snow and my experiences with the TT - over the road could be a little scary. the same "hunting" feature that plagued me on the highway was a pretty iffy on hard-pack and ice and old-style BFG muds. once i got off into deep, heavy and wet snow then all the negatives went away and the detroit rear and TT front worked very well together, i thought. it worked like a champ in deep mud, too - the bias seemed a lot stronger than the stats would indicate in deep snow or mud. enough so that I'm considering using a TT in the rear diff on my next truck.
fwiw
cheers,
-ike
Last edited:
traveltoad
Aaron S
Big time.
yes on dry pavement a TT will tend to center the steering wheel some but when you add steering input then they tend to torque steer. So the fabled "stabilizing factor" really only helps when driving straight down the road.
In snow they tend to give much less predictable handeling.
in snow a open diff will give the most predictable steering and for that reason a ARB being the strongest open diff out there for a rover it would be my choice.