Rover track axles?
- Thread starter RonL
- Start date
![RoverTracksAxles275[1].jpg](/data/attachments/4/4212-1ce8b67c08ea68686e7570c791b011b6.jpg)
UnfrozenCaveman
Explorer
Ron.....just call Keith...no, not me...and ask him.
RonL
Adventurer
I was all set to buy a set of Keith's axle when I found a set of GBR axle for a 1/8 of retail price.
So here are my questions.
1. How do these compare to RoverTracks?
2. Who makes them for GBR? Are they Ashcroft?
3. What is the advance to the one piece design(RoverTracks) vs. the axle and drive flange(GBR)?
So here are my questions.
1. How do these compare to RoverTracks?
2. Who makes them for GBR? Are they Ashcroft?
3. What is the advance to the one piece design(RoverTracks) vs. the axle and drive flange(GBR)?
Alaska Mike
ExPo Moderator/Eye Candy
I can only speak to #3:
The one-piece design eliminates an unecessary splined connection and a potential souce of failure/driveline slop. The Jeep AMC 20 had a splined shaft/hub design that used to fail all of the time, and there is a whole industry dedicated to 1 piece axle shafts for that axle. While the Rover design is more robust and failure is much less common, the chance of wear and driveline slop is still there.
I don't know the price difference or the history of that particular GBR set, so I can't even begin to make an educated suggestion here.
The one-piece design eliminates an unecessary splined connection and a potential souce of failure/driveline slop. The Jeep AMC 20 had a splined shaft/hub design that used to fail all of the time, and there is a whole industry dedicated to 1 piece axle shafts for that axle. While the Rover design is more robust and failure is much less common, the chance of wear and driveline slop is still there.
I don't know the price difference or the history of that particular GBR set, so I can't even begin to make an educated suggestion here.
proper4wd
Expedition Leader
Be cautious with buying used axles, without knowing the history of them it is impossible to know how close they are to failure! There is a specific allowed "twist" in axleshafts, that is to say that they are designed to twist a certain number of degrees before they break. It's possible that your 1/8 price GBR axles are at the limit of their life cycle.
ntsqd
Heretic Car Camper
I'll second the caution on second hand axles. Unless it is impossible to install them more than one way you also risk getting them in backwards. If they are used then they've likely taken a set and have twisted in one primary direction. Installing them backwards 'unwinds' them and hastens failure.
Now if they are second hand, but show NO polishing on the faces of the splines (indicating use) then they might be a good deal.
The semi-floating axle layout combined with using a taper and a key is the un-doing of the AMC Model 20 axle shaft design. In a floating axle design I'd rather have the double splined shaft with a drive flange (& deal with sealing the outer splines from leakage). This is how all racing floating axles are built. The stress risers are considerably less than in a flanged shaft of any sort. There are tricks to making a flanged shaft live longer, but the basic design is chosen for economics of scale - not design superiority.
Now if they are second hand, but show NO polishing on the faces of the splines (indicating use) then they might be a good deal.
The semi-floating axle layout combined with using a taper and a key is the un-doing of the AMC Model 20 axle shaft design. In a floating axle design I'd rather have the double splined shaft with a drive flange (& deal with sealing the outer splines from leakage). This is how all racing floating axles are built. The stress risers are considerably less than in a flanged shaft of any sort. There are tricks to making a flanged shaft live longer, but the basic design is chosen for economics of scale - not design superiority.
MuddyMudskipper
Camp Ninja
I'll third the caution on the purchase of second hand axles. A fellow Rover owner I know bought a set of second hand GBR's at a deal for his D1 and they twisted shortly (about a month) after installing them. Additionally, he was running open diffs. I bought GBRs new five years ago and have had no problem.
RonL
Adventurer
I do know the history of them, a friend is parting out his Discovery. They are in great shape. I can't even buy used stock axles for his asking price.
There is no sign of twisting in the spline area or down the shaft.
Do these axle general twist in the spline area or down the shaft?
There is no sign of twisting in the spline area or down the shaft.
Do these axle general twist in the spline area or down the shaft?
ntsqd
Heretic Car Camper
They twist over the whole length of the shaft. The amount of twist is in inverse proportion to the diameter of the shaft at any given point. Unless there is something like a forging parting line or a white line painted down the length of the shaft it is usually very difficult to see if the shaft has been permanently twisted or not. If you can see twist without those aids, pass - they're done.
MuddyMudskipper
Camp Ninja
RonL said:
Eddie's were twisted down the shaft.
revor
Explorer
1. How do these compare to RoverTracks?
The are made from a Material called hi tuf, Strong stuff, Mine are 1541H also strong stuff. I could go on but it's boring.
2. Who makes them for GBR? Are they Ashcroft?
Barry makes them, used to be Maxidrive, If they are used they are probably Maxidrive. A good product to say the least.
3. What is the advance to the one piece design(RoverTracks) vs. the axle and drive flange(GBR)?
Having one less working joint is nice, the seperate flange and axle arrangment can wear, a One piece flange has no joint. (fewer leak problems too..
If the axles look good and there is at least a reasonable history that says they shouldn't be to worked over I would consider them. There is no telling when an axle will go. I've seen both mine and Maxidrive's twisted and go on for years as well.
The are made from a Material called hi tuf, Strong stuff, Mine are 1541H also strong stuff. I could go on but it's boring.
2. Who makes them for GBR? Are they Ashcroft?
Barry makes them, used to be Maxidrive, If they are used they are probably Maxidrive. A good product to say the least.
3. What is the advance to the one piece design(RoverTracks) vs. the axle and drive flange(GBR)?
Having one less working joint is nice, the seperate flange and axle arrangment can wear, a One piece flange has no joint. (fewer leak problems too..
If the axles look good and there is at least a reasonable history that says they shouldn't be to worked over I would consider them. There is no telling when an axle will go. I've seen both mine and Maxidrive's twisted and go on for years as well.
DiscoveryXD
Adventurer
RonL said:
I sold my used stock axles for 50 bucks on dweb. See them on there for that price all the time too...
michaelgroves
Explorer
Seems to me that the cautions on second-hand shafts might be a little over the top. As soon as you put new shafts in your truck, they are used. What is the difference? I've had new shafts last me 200,000 miles and still good, and others breaking after only a few thousand, so who's to say which of these would have been a good deal secondhand? (Or a good deal new, for that matter!)
Price sounds good to me, and if there's no evidence of twisting (and if you are sure they are the brand they are being touted as), then there's no particular reason to imagine they will fail any sooner than new ones.
Price sounds good to me, and if there's no evidence of twisting (and if you are sure they are the brand they are being touted as), then there's no particular reason to imagine they will fail any sooner than new ones.
michaelgroves
Explorer
RonL said:
I much prefer the single-piece design, and I still don't know why Land Rover didn't stick to that design for all models when they made them for the RRC.
It was useful to have the two-piece design when I built my 6x6 Defender, as I fitted a pair of 110 free-wheeling hubs to the rear-most axle to isolate it completely. It must have been with that in mind that Land Rover decided to continue with the two-piece...