RR P38 12V Accessory plug rewire

spikemd

Explorer
2001 Range Rover SE 4.6L

The Range Rover P38 has a 12v accessory plug in the right rear of the truck from 2000-2002. Unfortunately, it is wired into the ignition so it only works when the ignition is on. Since I want to use this socket to run my ARB fridge/freezer, I need it to be 'live' all the time. On the opposite side (drivers) Land Rover had the truck wired for an accessory, but is not used. It has a 'hot' 12V and an ignition 12V source. I rewired the 12V 'hot' wire from the drivers side and ran it under the carpet along the tailgate to the other side into the accessory plug so I can run my fridge any time. Its an easy mod but a worthwhile one when you want a cold beer on the trail.

Pic of the accessory plug and panel to remove to get to wiring.
rover_12v_plug.jpg



Pic of the interior piece over the subwoofer that must be removed to access the un-used plug.
rover_12v_subwoofer.jpg



Pic of the wiring completed on the drivers side and reattached to fender wall.
rover_12v_subwoofer_open_wi.jpg



Pic of accessory plug re-wired
rover_12v_plug_open.jpg



The ARB looks great in the back of the Rangie with a cold brewski at the end of the day.
rover_12v_arb.jpg

rover_12v_arb_beer.jpg
 

sydneyman

Observer
after the one year anniversary so i'll just say nice job! im torn between doing this or leaving that plug alone and installing multiple plugs like ron did on rangerovers.net...
 

spikemd

Explorer
So far, it has been working well to power the fridge. But I am going to rewire and run a dedicated 10G wire from the battery to the rear to avoid voltage drop. It is just difficult to wire anything through the firewall in the P38. It is buttoned up tight.

With my starting/marine battery, I haven't had issues with the ARB cutting out, but it does cut-out due to low voltage in the 4Runner. The higher gauge wire should eliminate some of it.

We are working on a dual battery system in a buddy's P38. He is the guinea pig and finally found a spot to get the wire through the firewall.


Here is an updated pic of the fridge on sliders in a storage unit I built:
rr_storage_side.jpg
 

DarthBeaver

Adventurer
the setup spikemd has is very nice. but the dedicated 10G run definitely makes a difference. We did some experimenting on my disco first before we started in on the P38s... will try to take some "chrono" pics along the way (no I am not the one with the other P38... just one of the crew...)
 

sydneyman

Observer
where did you end up running the cable? my plan was to run it under the car along the chassis rail and come up through the trailer wiring grommet... that way it wouldn't have to go through the firewall...
 

DarthBeaver

Adventurer
we tried that but had to many "chaffing" points where the wire could rub and short out... so we brought it through a firewall grommet on the passenger side, down the door channels and to the back. It was a PITA but the result is good. We put a Blue Sea 6 slot marine grade fuse box in the spare tire well and ran ground out a hole to the frame. We also used two marine grade 12v receptacles (from west marine) as well.. the rubber seals help with dust etc on off-roading.
 

sydneyman

Observer
yeah i was worried about chafing... hmm i'll probably end up doing what ya'll did... i'll have to take a closer look this weekend..
 

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