RTT on trailer with.... Changing room?

regio

New member
hi java,

how high is your trailer, or better how low do you wanna put the tent down?
There is always the option to use a telescopic frame:
http://www.wiedemann-fahrzeugtechnik.de/images/produkte/323-Tele-stuetz-1-web.jpg

But at the end of the day you need a certain height of approx 180cm to make good use of the changing room.
All set ups I have seen are around that height.
http://www.gordigear.com/roof_tents...pic_0085_IMG_0042@France@Pays de la Loire.jpg

But in my opinion you need cross beams once the tent is up there to make sure everything stays in place and doesn't move or rock.

good luck

regio
 

java

Expedition Leader
hi java,

how high is your trailer, or better how low do you wanna put the tent down?
There is always the option to use a telescopic frame:
http://www.wiedemann-fahrzeugtechnik.de/images/produkte/323-Tele-stuetz-1-web.jpg

But at the end of the day you need a certain height of approx 180cm to make good use of the changing room.ko
All set ups I have seen are around that height.
http://www.gordigear.com/roof_tents...pic_0085_IMG_0042@France@Pays de la Loire.jpg

But in my opinion you need cross beams once the tent is up there to make sure everything stays in place and doesn't move or rock.

good luck

regio

Ideally id like 6'3" under the tent. And I would be fine with ~4 travel height. I didn't think of landing legs like that. Good idea. Ill see how long I can get them. Couldn't be that hard to tie all the mechanism together either.
 

java

Expedition Leader
ok im back to this now that i have my trailer figured out. the top rails are at a bit less than 4', id like to keep it under 6'8" when in the down position, tent is 16" thick. and id like 6'+ under it when deployed. anyone have any more great ideas on a rack that raises and lowers?
 

DonBeasley

Adventurer
Java:

I am having the same issue. Now that I have lid, I measured the roof rack, crossbars, & tent bars underneath and come up with a total height of 59"-60" for bottom of deployed tent to the ground. I too would like about 6'. I have considered just living with this and having the annex shortened a little at the top and bottom to make it work but this is not ideal. On the other hand the room is for sitting, changing, dog storage, etc. so maybe it will work.

I am interested to see what others come up with before I put the roof rack on the lid.
 

JPK

Explorer
Here is an idea that might work, or you might think is just stupid...

I looked at your trailer thread, and see that you can weld steel. I had a couple of questions which might impact details, but as a general idea how about this:
Weld a, say 1 1/2", steel round tube frame that fits withins the bed and which provides the rigidity needed for the weight of the RTT when on or off road. To me this would mean tying the four corners together within the bed with flat stock, and almost as high as the bed rail. At the corners at the height you require the tent to be when down for travel install hinges. (The male pipe fittings with a dome shape and a space for flat stock and through bolt, don't have any idea what they're called, but see them all of the time, especially in railings.)

Here two choices:
1. From the joint run the corners up to your required height, ~24" to achieve +6' under the tent. During assembly, make and weld a collar, or buy and install a pre-made bolt on collar under the lower joint, and slide a, say, 2" diameter, about 18" long piece of pipe over the corner post. When traveling you would allow the tent and upper frame to fold forward or rearward as required, when setting up to camp, you would pull the tent and upper frame forward or rearward, as required,allowing the 18" piece of 2" pipe to slid down to the colloar, essentially locking the tent in an upright position. If cross bracing is required it could be installed when the tent is raised and secrued with pins or even bolts, similar to scoffolding. Use the same pins to hold the 2" piece of pipe up at each corner to lower the tent...

Option 2: Since you are looking for a about 24" of rise between the lowered height of the bottom of the tent frame and the raised height of the bottom of the tent frame, put another joint in at ~8" above the first joint. Two joints will allow for less forward or rearward offset when the tent is in the down position. Install the collars on the corner post same as above and the 2" piece of pipe too, but a shorter piece about ~15" long which would slide up the ~16" top piece at each corner. To raise the tent, pull one end and let the 15" piece of 2" pipe slide to the collar to secure the joints. Do the same at the other end. To fold lift and pin the 15" piece of 2" pipe.... Cross brace in the same manner desrcibed above, as required.

I can come up with a lot of reasons this would be a pita, among them the inevitable noise of rattling joints and sleeves, weight... But it would be inexensive to build and relatively easy to raise or take down for one person. A method of keeping the ten and upper frame down would be required, but that might be as easy as a couple of Yakima or rachets straps, some isolation between the upper frame and what it rests on in either option would be good too. Obviously, I have not tried this or even thought long and hard about how to do this, just an idea that came to mind after reading your post.

I'd welcome any thoughts, even "That's the stupidest thing I ever read..." or questions if my explanation was inadequate to be clear.

JPK
 
Last edited:

UK4X4

Expedition Leader
up - and down

used emt tubing and steel pins- raise 1 side half way and pin then raise other end
or with two just lift and raise and put in the pins

DSC_0522.jpg

DSC_0538.jpg

DSC_1252.jpg

trailer022.jpg

DSC_1514.jpg
 
Last edited:

java

Expedition Leader
Looks good. I may just have to try it. How stable did it feel with just the pins holding you tube? I can only make my rack 18" tall which if I leave 6" overlap will get me up 2.5' over the rails which might work perfect.
 

java

Expedition Leader
been looking at this one again.....
anyone have any idea how much torque the gear motor would need to be able to lift a 100 lb tent? they max at about 200 in-lbs for 12VDC


 

jeepfreak81

Adventurer
up - and down

used emt tubing and steel pins- raise 1 side half way and pin then raise other end
or with two just lift and raise and put in the pins

DSC_0522.jpg

DSC_0538.jpg

DSC_1252.jpg

trailer022.jpg

DSC_1514.jpg

How did you account for the pivot point on the tent mount when only raising one side at a time?
 

UK4X4

Expedition Leader
a round cross bar and a U bolt attaching that to the tent allowed the pivoting

the emt being a liitle flexable allowed some movement when being lifted
 

Hill Bill E.

Oath Keeper
Thanks for the links!

Java, you have any luck with a design yet?

I'm liking the gas struts/winch down design so far. 92hdj81's design looks to be very stable while extended.
 

tdittyrocks

Observer
Here is a design I came up with. I wanted to be able to access the trailer whether the tent was deployed or not. Since I do not have a tailgate cut in, that means I need to be able to open the lid at all times. The lift raises the tent about 2 ft. above the lid, which means it is about 6'-8" above the ground. Here are a couple pictures of the tent deployed in the lower position and the raised position. The lift uses a single Harbor Freight stabilizer jack.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0231.JPG
    IMG_0231.JPG
    82.5 KB · Views: 63
  • IMG_0246a.jpg
    IMG_0246a.jpg
    122.1 KB · Views: 87
  • IMG_0217.JPG
    IMG_0217.JPG
    86 KB · Views: 78
  • IMG_0215.JPG
    IMG_0215.JPG
    92.2 KB · Views: 75

Ca. Bowhunter

Adventurer
Here is our idea. We made a 3/4" PVC frame that lays at the bottom of the room to hold the shape
and used the extra wall material to make a floor works very well.

Randy





DSC00945.jpg
 

Forum statistics

Threads
188,417
Messages
2,907,092
Members
230,176
Latest member
Arcadia1415
Top