dwh
Tail-End Charlie
I still had a bunch of jambs. Again I think it's an extraction issue.
What sort of jams? Stovepipes or what?
There are several places where semi-autos commonly have problems with extraction:
1. Not enough pressure to cycle the action fully back.
Could be from weak ammo, or a too heavy (or too long) slide spring or sometimes from a rough interface / friction between the slide and frame (sometimes caused by a poor fit but usually either FOD or lack of lube as the gun warms up and gets tighter).
2. The ejector finger doesn't grip the rim fully.
Pretty common. Sometimes fixed by relieving the inside of the finger so it can move further in. Looking at it like this- L -where the bottom bar is the finger that grips the rim. You would relieve the bottom of the upright bar where it meets the inside corner, allowing the bottom bar to move a bit more toward the right and getting a bit deeper grip on the case rim. On some, you have to relieve the outside of the top of the upright bar instead (or sometimes both), to allow the whole thing to move more around the pivot point. In this case, "relieving" means just a very light touch with a file. Sometimes the pivot is too stiff and just needs to wear in more.
3. The ejector pin doesn't hit the rim at the right place to kick the case out at the proper angle.
Usually have to dink around with Prussian Blue paste to diagnose that one.
4. The slide comes forward and stovepipes the case.
If it's not caused by 1, 2 or 3, then sometimes a bit lighter or bit shorter spring will fix it. If it doesn't, or you need all the spring power, then you mill the port open a little more to the rear to give the case a little more time to get clear.
There was apparently another ejection problem that the early model LCPs had, but from this description it wasn't a problem that resulted in jamming:
http://www.gunreports.com/special_r...ses_rim_tears_Kel-Tec_P-3AT_ejector423-1.html
Note the last two pics that show the area that needs to be relieved on the early model.
You could send it back to Ruger (and if it's an early model, you'll probably have to anyway), but they let it out of the factory the way it is, so I wouldn't put too much hope in getting the problem solved. I would recommend finding a local gunsmith and taking it to him (or her) and having hiim do a full polish job on it. That will usually make a noticeable difference in how a factory gun performs.