Rust Prevention and Reversal: Whats Your Experience?

[Ianfd1]

Rust sucks. If you live north of the rust belt you likely know this all too well.

I've been spending some time this past winter researching some rust protection and reformation products and I realized there is not a lot of long term information on these products. So I figured I'd open up a thread asking anyone who wants to chime in what there experience combating rust on both body panels and the frame of their vehicle. One of the biggest sources of contention I've seen over rust protection products is that they can make the rust on your vehicle worse.

For my specific issue I am dealing with some frame rust. The rust hasn't eaten into the actual structure of the frame yet. thats what i want to stop.
The current plan is to knock off all the large rust and dirt. Hit the metal with a reformer. Paint it with some sort of anti corrosive paint, and then use a spray wax or coating. The real question is which products to use for each step and I wanted to see if anyone on here has any real life experience with this.

Anyways...
Heres some of the information Ive gotten about these products:
Rust reformers:
OSPHO
POR-15 Remover
Rustoleum Stop Rust
Paint:
POR-15 Stop Rust
Steel-IT Aerosol
Steel-IT Epoxy
Rustoleum spray paint
Protection/ Undercoating
Cosmoline RP-342
Fluid Film
Note*- I'm not including any rubberized undercoating because all I've heard is horror stories. However if you have any good experiences let me know.

So if you've used these products it would be great to hear what the actual long term results were. Or if you have any other products you'd suggest it would be great to hear.

 

[Explorerinil]

I soak the underside of my truck with fluid film before and after winter. I also wash the underside of the truck once a week. I also spray the frame and wheel wells down with chemical guys bare bones. The underside of all my trucks have always been rust free, black and looking like new.

 

[NatersXJ6]

In my experience, if you’re not abrasive blasting first you aren’t going to get ahead of it. Ironically, I didn’t own a good blaster until long after I left the rust belt.

 

[billiebob]

MOVE...... Alberta, is bad, Ontario much worse. I parked my BC born TJR beside an AB born TJR. Identical, same mileage, both 10 years old. WOW !

I grew up in AB but I never knew it could be soo much better just by moving to BC.
In Ontario and Alberta the problem is winter ice solutions. Alberta is just not as bad. Might be a population density thing, Might be colder winters.

There is no solution. Cars rust. Cars rust worse and faster when sodium chloride is in the winter traction solution.

All the products you list only provide a temporary solution. I call them marketing scams. I've used most of them.
Flat out, if you drive year round in the rust belt there is no solution.

Better than all the products.... NEVER PARK IN A HEATED GARAGE.
Heat is the catalyst which accelerates the corrosive properties of calcium chloride.
Park it outside year round and you will slow the effects of the rust belt. Every other "solution", "cure" is snake oil advertising.
Or move.... to Nevada.

The other thing about temperature is don't drive when the weather is mild in the winter.
Since salt works best just below freezing highways crews use excessive amounts of salt when it is mild.
But at 40 below they use straight sand because salt is a waste of money. Salt NEEDS heat to work.
The environment, like where you park, is far more important than any treatment you apply to steel.

When it is cold out baby,,,, don't roll into a heated car wash bay.... just park on the street.

 

[ripperj]

I guess everyone has an opinion, but mine is that things like Fluid Film, PB Surface Shield and NH Truck oil work. When I was kid back in the 70s , I’d help my dad and neighbors drive the trucks on a tarp and spray used motor oil/ kerosene mix on the frame, and then throw sawdust on it and spray it more. Years later you could wipe the goo off and the metal was good looking.



All these things are a pain in butt to apply and should be done every year (supposedly two years for the Surface Shield. You can hire it out, but they charge big bucks and do a lousy job.

My last truck I did the Black NH truck oil. It looked good, but was a real mess. I work on my truck a lot and I had to buy a set of coveralls just for going under the truck. They get trashed and can’t be washed(not without a divorce)
Every time I went under the truck I was covered in black oil and the dirt that sticks to the oil.
I didn’t keep it long enough to see the long term benefits.

My new truck went with the PB Surface shield on the frame and body panels . It seems to be more salt spray resistant than Fluid Film(which comes off pretty easy)

There’s a You Tube video that a guy does some testing with a pressure washer and the Surface Shield

I guess I’ll know in a decade if it’s worth the $100 and most of a day to do. I’ll spend a grand and 10 days labor over the decade to help preserve a $58k truck


I went thru a Ct winter and even the bolts look new. Still messy and trashed another set of Carhartts

I got carried away and used a case (12 cans) of the Surface Shield on the frame and bottom of bed, cab, and up inside the bed sides…..and about the same of the Fluid Film in the frame , doors and body cavities. This was a long bed , crew cab 3500. (Pretty much worst case for surface area)

I used the Fluid Film inside as they were not yet making long cavity wands for the Surface Shield. (Nozzles are male vice female) I’ll stick with the Fluid Film inside as the spray resistance is a non issue.



I see some guys saying they can do the a Toyota with 4-5 cans, but I don’t see how.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[ThundahBeagle]

I think I'm with ripperj.

Unfortunately I lost two full size Chevy Blazers to body or frame rust. I never anti rusted either one. Wish I had.

So I had a body shop apply rubberized on my girlfriends car, then I saw a video of horror stories. I decided to use Fluid Film on my truck when it was in the shop. Yes they charge big money, and yes the did a lazy job of it. And I have to apply again this coming autumn.

Theres no real way to just be done with it. Rust is a matter of vigilance.

 

[Explorerinil]

I guess everyone has an opinion, but mine is that things like Fluid Film, PB Surface Shield and NH Truck oil work. When I was kid back in the 70s , I’d help my dad and neighbors drive the trucks on a tarp and spray used motor oil/ kerosene mix on the frame, and then throw sawdust on it and spray it more. Years later you could wipe the goo off and the metal was good looking.



All these things are a pain in butt to apply and should be done every year (supposedly two years for the Surface Shield. You can hire it out, but they charge big bucks and do a lousy job.

My last truck I did the Black NH truck oil. It looked good, but was a real mess. I work on my truck a lot and I had to buy a set of coveralls just for going under the truck. They get trashed and can’t be washed(not without a divorce)
Every time I went under the truck I was covered in black oil and the dirt that sticks to the oil.
I didn’t keep it long enough to see the long term benefits.

My new truck went with the PB Surface shield on the frame and body panels . It seems to be more salt spray resistant than Fluid Film(which comes off pretty easy)

There’s a You Tube video that a guy does some testing with a pressure washer and the Surface Shield

I guess I’ll know in a decade if it’s worth the $100 and most of a day to do. I’ll spend a grand and 10 days labor over the decade to help preserve a $58k truck


I went thru a Ct winter and even the bolts look new. Still messy and trashed another set of Carhartts

I got carried away and used a case (12 cans) of the Surface Shield on the frame and bottom of bed, cab, and up inside the bed sides…..and about the same of the Fluid Film in the frame , doors and body cavities. This was a long bed , crew cab 3500. (Pretty much worst case for surface area)

I used the Fluid Film inside as they were not yet making long cavity wands for the Surface Shield. (Nozzles are male vice female) I’ll stick with the Fluid Film inside as the spray resistance is a non issue.



I see some guys saying they can do the a Toyota with 4-5 cans, but I don’t see how.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

You might be able to buy it in 1 gallon jugs, put it in an old pump sprayer and spray it that way… might be cheaper.

 

[JaSAn]

I've used POR-15 on a number of vehicles with good results, first one 30+ years ago; still rust free in Northern Minnesota. I always use their 3 step process and usually sandblast first, especially if there is any paint left on parts.
Never had luck with Rustoleum; no experience with the others you listed.
Rubberized undercoating doesn't work.

Before POR-15 I used the used oil method ripperj mentioned; messy to apply, must be periodically reapplied, not very environmentally friendly, works on underside of vehicle but not on vertical painted surfaces or hot exhaust components.

A couple of friends had their frames and suspension powder coated; seems to have held up well.
Another friend coated frame, suspension, and body with 2 part DIY bedliner (don't remember brand). It has held up well to Minnesota winter road seasoning.

 

[Zeep]

The way I deal with rust, here, in S.E. Michigan, is to have a sacrificial vehicle. I've parked my Jeep in the winter for years now.
Winter daily driving is left to my '19 Ram 1500, which will be used till the panels flap in the wind, from corrosion.

 

[Ianfd1]

MOVE...... Alberta, is bad, Ontario much worse. I parked my BC born TJR beside an AB born TJR. Identical, same mileage, both 10 years old. WOW !

I grew up in AB but I never knew it could be soo much better just by moving to BC.
In Ontario and Alberta the problem is winter ice solutions. Alberta is just not as bad. Might be a population density thing, Might be colder winters.

There is no solution. Cars rust. Cars rust worse and faster when sodium chloride is in the winter traction solution.

All the products you list only provide a temporary solution. I call them marketing scams. I've used most of them.
Flat out, if you drive year round in the rust belt there is no solution.

Better than all the products.... NEVER PARK IN A HEATED GARAGE.
Heat is the catalyst which accelerates the corrosive properties of calcium chloride.
Park it outside year round and you will slow the effects of the rust belt. Every other "solution", "cure" is snake oil advertising.
Or move.... to Nevada.

The other thing about temperature is don't drive when the weather is mild in the winter.
Since salt works best just below freezing highways crews use excessive amounts of salt when it is mild.
But at 40 below they use straight sand because salt is a waste of money. Salt NEEDS heat to work.
The environment, like where you park, is far more important than any treatment you apply to steel.

When it is cold out baby,,,, don't roll into a heated car wash bay.... just park on the street.

Moved to BC a while back. You're right definitely better in terms of rust. The Durangos frame (which is from Vancouver) has very little rust on it. However my Ranger (Calgary truck) is a whole 'nother story

 

[Ianfd1]

I guess everyone has an opinion, but mine is that things like Fluid Film, PB Surface Shield and NH Truck oil work. When I was kid back in the 70s , I’d help my dad and neighbors drive the trucks on a tarp and spray used motor oil/ kerosene mix on the frame, and then throw sawdust on it and spray it more. Years later you could wipe the goo off and the metal was good looking.



All these things are a pain in butt to apply and should be done every year (supposedly two years for the Surface Shield. You can hire it out, but they charge big bucks and do a lousy job.

My last truck I did the Black NH truck oil. It looked good, but was a real mess. I work on my truck a lot and I had to buy a set of coveralls just for going under the truck. They get trashed and can’t be washed(not without a divorce)
Every time I went under the truck I was covered in black oil and the dirt that sticks to the oil.
I didn’t keep it long enough to see the long term benefits.

My new truck went with the PB Surface shield on the frame and body panels . It seems to be more salt spray resistant than Fluid Film(which comes off pretty easy)

There’s a You Tube video that a guy does some testing with a pressure washer and the Surface Shield

I guess I’ll know in a decade if it’s worth the $100 and most of a day to do. I’ll spend a grand and 10 days labor over the decade to help preserve a $58k truck


I went thru a Ct winter and even the bolts look new. Still messy and trashed another set of Carhartts

I got carried away and used a case (12 cans) of the Surface Shield on the frame and bottom of bed, cab, and up inside the bed sides…..and about the same of the Fluid Film in the frame , doors and body cavities. This was a long bed , crew cab 3500. (Pretty much worst case for surface area)

I used the Fluid Film inside as they were not yet making long cavity wands for the Surface Shield. (Nozzles are male vice female) I’ll stick with the Fluid Film inside as the spray resistance is a non issue.



I see some guys saying they can do the a Toyota with 4-5 cans, but I don’t see how.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Glad to hear - my dads truck had been undercoated from the factory and once more in its 10 year lifespan. Honestly I agree that it works to an extent. I'm not trying to make the truck show quality perfect I just want it to last longer than if everything rusted through.

 

[Explorerinil]

Glad to hear - my dads truck had been undercoated from the factory and once more in its 10 year lifespan. Honestly I agree that it works to an extent. I'm not trying to make the truck show quality perfect I just want it to last longer than if everything rusted through.

FYI I saw fluid film in one gallon containers at a local napa just now.

 

[motovan_mn]

Repair geek on YouTube is a great resource!

If you're too lazy to watch, things like fluid film are good. Things like ziebart rubberized coating are bad. In a nutshell.

 

[badm0t0rfinger]

I actually just did a video on this, I use flat black rattle can and fluid film. I've been lucky to never lived in a rust belt state, but just clean it off. Washes should still be done during the winter!

 

[ThundahBeagle]

... I've been lucky to never lived in a rust belt state, but just clean it off. Washes should still be done during the winter!

Never lived in a rust belt state, giving advice on rust prevention...Yes washes should still be done in winter. "Just clean it off is a little like someone saying to a cancer patient "just put a wig on". Not exactly, but you get the idea. I jest a little there

Cleaning it off helps. But you have a hard time getting into all the crevices, joints and corners, and inside the frame. That's why fluid film and maybe your black rattle can are so important. Good that you do that even out in SanDiego. It doesnt really hurt unless you are dousing electrical components and connections.

People from the Northeast pay a premium for cars from places like San Diego

My truck was built in Firt Wayne but the first owner was in Maine. He kept it in good shape but I've gotta stay on top of any minor frame rust