Rust Proofing a 2016 Tacoma and other questions

[evilfij]

Just bought a 2016 SR ACLB 4x4 manual utility package. Black exterior to hide the fact it has black bumpers. Expo white looked ridiculous.

I hate rust. On a Land Rover, I know everything that will rust and know how to deal with it. Of course, a couple of my rovers have new galvanized frames which is not really practical on a new truck.

How about for the new taco? I am thinking waxoyl on the frame and clear waxoyl inside any cavity I can find.

Also, can someone confirm 235 85 r16 fit fine on the stock steel wheels? Including the spare fitting under the bed?

 

[SigNewt]

Spare will fit, fronts will rub the control arms at full lock.

 

[codename607]

I'm in upstate ny and I took my truck to Ziebart. It wasn't cheap but the warranty that they offer was one of the reason I went this route.

 

[forty2]

Spare will fit, fronts will rub the control arms at full lock.

I really doubt this will be the case, the rubbing anyway. They're pretty narrow and still a sub 32" tire. 2nd and 3rd gen are near identical suspension wise and I don't think I've ever seen reports of rubbing in this size on a 2nd.

 

[mbrewer]

I went with fluid film, did it myself using cans and the can-extender to get the insides of the frame. I used 6 and really coated it.
I'm pretty curious to hear what others suggest.

The folks I know in vermont say to coat the underside of your truck with chain-saw oil every year - but doing that is an environmental hazard and illegal in many states. Fluid film is actually lanolin at it's base, and the closest thing I could find that's legal.

265/75R16 rub on the frame at full lock without a lift on a 1'st gen, but don't rub after the lift unless you're also flexed out. I guarantee 235's won't rub with a lift. Without a lift if it rubs it'll be minor... I too have read over and over that rubbing isn't an issue, but so may people put on a 2" lift, and folks have different definitions of rubbing. In any case, try it and if it rubs at all and that bothers you, correcting it won't take much.

 

[surlydiesel]

235's will not rub and fit on the stock steelies fine.

Rust Proofing...it's a loosing battle if they spread salt where you live. The best prevention is constant washing. That's what I learned working EMS in VT. Every time a truck went out, it was washed when it came back. No rust issues at all.

-jorge

 

[steelhd]

Spare will fit, fronts will rub the control arms at full lock.

No, they shouldn't rub at all. I run 265/75s with stock wheels and suspension on my 2nd gen with no trouble. If he starts changing backspace with spacers or wheels then all bets are off.

 

[evilfij]

Thanks. Other than fluid film (which says you have to reapply every year) does anyone have any rust proofing? Zeibart has a location somewhat near me so I will check that out. How much was it to do?

BTW I really like the truck. It feels like it is ancient technology (other than the screen) and I really like that. Truck style manual trans, rudimentary suspension, steel wheels, mechanically seems pretty simple to work on, and the best part was it was $25k out the door. I thought I would want to swap out the tires, but I think I can live with the stockers for now. I have a set of Rudd chains from a RRC which fit and with the electronic wizardry it should be fine for my needs. And yes, it is slow.

 

[QuadsBC]

I highly recommend fluid film. Yes reapply yearly, but it's extremely easy to do. I purchased a diy kit which came with 2 gallons, spray gun and rattle can. Took about 20 minutes to coat the frame. After last winter I have no rust on the truck, original 2000 frame stickers are still on and paint pen marks. The only downside with fluid film is if you plan on working on your truck it will be a little dirtier job. A small trade off by comparison. I enjoy not fighting with rusty bolts.

 

[evilfij]

I highly recommend fluid film. Yes reapply yearly, but it's extremely easy to do. I purchased a diy kit which came with 2 gallons, spray gun and rattle can. Took about 20 minutes to coat the frame. After last winter I have no rust on the truck, original 2000 frame stickers are still on and paint pen marks. The only downside with fluid film is if you plan on working on your truck it will be a little dirtier job. A small trade off by comparison. I enjoy not fighting with rusty bolts.

Ok thank you. It does have the advantage of being readily available.

 

[Hutch434]

Flip one of these over and wash under your truck as often as possible...AND follow the above recommendations and you should be good to go...Toyota learned a little bit from all of the frame replacements over the years...

http://www.amazon.com/Pressure-85-4...2&keywords=pressure+washer+sweeper+attachment

 

[gmtech]

as resident tar sprayer at my chevy dealer ill let you know rust proof / under coating warranties only go so far..
say the bottom pinch weld on a door. the stuff you would spray in the doors doesn't get to all of the pinch weld and most warranties wont cover what the stuff doesn't hit. also id recommend spraying frame with rustoleom flat black spray paint instead of something sticky and thick. after couple coats of the thick stuff its everywhere. spray paint can have many coats and still not be thick. also with Toyotas frame recalls why would you worry.. if your going to keep it long enough and are a loyal customer they should take care of you. what the previous poster said they have came along way in there corrosion prevention. just wash it lots and be happy you didn't buy a chevy or a dodge