Sankey preservation

[DividingCreek]

Kurt I actually gave the turn signal thing some thought and opted to switch from the original configuration in order to orient them as close to the corners as is done on automobiles for safety reasons. I can always change it later but will likely stick with this configuration. I put the square backing plates inside the frame. I had to drill them all back out as well as the holes in the chassis, lots of zinc on this sucker. Rolled the chassis outside and set the tub on. Waiting on the new J bolts to arrive to cinch it down. Also need to source two new white reflectors for the front. The tub is oxidizing nicely. Should be that nice soft grey soon. Still need to tap out the captive nuts on the tub where the bumpers go for the stabilizer legs when they are in the up position.

Anything Sankey related is rare this side of the pond and they tend to bring from 1200 up to 3000 USD here depending on condition and version.

For example this disc braked wide version is $4500-

http://landroverparts.roversnorth.c...5&type=0&eq=&desc=-EX-MILITARY-TRAILER&key=it


I noticed you have a reverse lamp and rear fog on your trailer as well. Were those required in Germany or did you add them ?

 

[proper4wd]

Hi Doug, from my experience towing similar trailers it is a matter of tongue weight that you are experiencing. with the majority of the weight just on the two trailer tires they are free to follow their own grooves in the road and wander all over the place. When you "triangulate" the weight by having a significant % of tongue weight, it forces the trailer to stay in line with the hitch.

Also, using a hitch extension will aggravate this issue because you are increasing the length from rear axle to hitch point. Any wiggle that the truck has will be amplified by the longer length and the trailer could get a bit more unsteady.

Your best bet will be to mount those two jerry cans to the front of the tub and maybe consider building a heavy duty plate to move the pintle assy forward by 10" or thereabouts on the trailer frame. This should make it tow rock steady.

 

[DividingCreek]

Adam,
I have no plan of using a hitch extension with the Sankey (that said the rear cross member on a 130 is about 18 inches up under the bed so depending on the trailer being towed I have had to use one). I was just responding to Kurt that if I wanted to use the trailer behind a truck with a side swinging door like he does, that would be how I would accomplish that rather than modifying the tongue of the trailer. The only time I have had an issue with the trailer sway was on a trip to the MAR three years ago I loaded up the empty space behind my gear with firewood and was towing it on a height adjustable hitch that I had setup so the trailer was level. Obviously I had too much weight behind the axle. I transport defenders on my car trailer all the time and often play with the positioning of the truck on the trailer to find the balance point where there is just sufficient weight on the tongue but the trailer axles/suspension are carrying the load. Looking forward to balancing this so that its easy to move around by hand but also tows well.

 

[headdamage]

I've owned a few Sankey trailers, I currently have a wolf spec wide body with disc brakes. These trailers usually tow really well and I don't notice them behind the tow vehicle. I just pulled mine from Calgary to Yellowknife (1800km) last weekend and other than the reduced fuel economy, due to weight, and even though it there where sections of snow and ice it was hard to tell it was back there. I few times I touched the brakes just to light it up after dark so I could see if it was there.

 

[DividingCreek]

Yellowknife- man you are way up there.

 

[Arlo]

Hmmm, all of the amount of Sankey trailers and their very needed replacing things had been sold off from the MOD just to just one indian scrap dealer !:Wow1:

I noticed you have a reverse lamp and rear fog on your trailer as well. Were those required in Germany or did you add them ?

I just added them on. No requirements for old trailers in Germany.

But I devided the harness at its first distribution:
I ínstalled 2 7-lined lines to the back to feed all what I want without a second one in the back.

 

[Nightfire]

Anything Sankey related is rare this side of the pond and they tend to bring from 1200 up to 3000 USD here depending on condition and version.

For example this disc braked wide version is $4500-

http://landroverparts.roversnorth.c...5&type=0&eq=&desc=-EX-MILITARY-TRAILER&key=it

That's the drum braked wide track.

 

[biskit]

Your Sankey's looking the Bees knees Creeky, nice now you've galvanised it so should last forever.:drool: keep us supplied with info and pics.:ylsmoke:

 

[DividingCreek]

thanks. That was the idea. Cool little trailers but in need of some help to fight off the tin worm. My 19yr old son has the rover bug and has an 83 v8 County wagon we painstakingly brought back to life, so the trailer will end up passing down as an heriloom. I have further plans for improvements.

 

[Arlo]

Well, my first and second NT Sankey trailer frames got zinc plated.
The third one was a WT.
Original in length.
But not zinc plated at all. Because I'm not quite sure about an extension or not.
Now the 4th is to be reconditioned. A good friend asked me about that.

WT frames are a pita while handling! :sombrero:

So I thought about a turnover removable stand.

This is what came along:

It will work too for NTs with an adaptor to the draught bar for sure! :wings:

 

[Arlo]

Today's first service.

 

[DividingCreek]

Kurt are you sanding it back to bare metal ? I took the lazy mans way out and had the galvanizer soak the chassis in his heated acid tank. They would pull the chassis and scrape it with a putty knife until it was bare shiny metal. Whatever the self etching paint was that was used on these frames back in the day was tough stuff. Digging the throw rug in the first picture

Looking @ your frame it looks like the same ladder chassis as a narrow track just with outriggers front and rear to support the wider tub.

 

[Arlo]

My narrow tracks are sandblasted and zinc plated.
This happened as it was a low cost job to let it done.
But the times, they are achanging.

The wide track frames are a little bit different:

Hollow profiled tubes 4" by 2" for the ladder and two of the crossmembers. All others are made from C profiles 4" by 2". The outriggers are to be used to support the tub with it's great rear trapp door.

Corroded parts will be handled with a nail hammer serviced by compressed air.

Then I put some paint on it and wax.

Advantage: you are able to weld it whenever it's usefull.

 

[DividingCreek]

So you will use the blue 110 hcpu bed as the body ?

 

[Arlo]

Yes, that's the plan. :wings: