Sankey Tent Trailer
- Thread starter Arlo
- Start date
Arlo
Adventurer
Sankey wide track MkII restauration
Found this remaining ruin offered on ebay in 2007 for 200€ and bought it, dismanteled it, towed it by Sankey #I back from Cologne to Bremen...
... and then had a look at what I've got.
Well, the idea behind was to put the short bed from my LR 130 on it, because I was quite sure this short bed is actually too long to fix a draught-eye into the Nato hook without turning the the hook 180°.
Finally the project got finished to this stadium in the end of the last year.
Are you interested in the tips 'n tricks story? :Wow1:
Please let me know. :wings:
Found this remaining ruin offered on ebay in 2007 for 200€ and bought it, dismanteled it, towed it by Sankey #I back from Cologne to Bremen...
... and then had a look at what I've got.
Well, the idea behind was to put the short bed from my LR 130 on it, because I was quite sure this short bed is actually too long to fix a draught-eye into the Nato hook without turning the the hook 180°.
Finally the project got finished to this stadium in the end of the last year.
Are you interested in the tips 'n tricks story? :Wow1:
Please let me know. :wings:
Arlo
Adventurer
I use all of my mirrows to be sure the angle isn't to hard for both of the two and a cam on the Sankey's back to have a look at what I am aiming. :sombrero:
Well, I wrote about reversing is a little bit tricky.
It works very well since several years with Sankey II. I just have to have a look first befor getting into trouble inside a section. Thats it. :smiley_drive:
To get an extra length legalized on a frame in Germany is likely put humans to the moon! Very expensive! So I'm fine with this, no doubt.
Well, I wrote about reversing is a little bit tricky.
It works very well since several years with Sankey II. I just have to have a look first befor getting into trouble inside a section. Thats it. :smiley_drive:
To get an extra length legalized on a frame in Germany is likely put humans to the moon! Very expensive! So I'm fine with this, no doubt.
Mark Harley
Expedition Leader
Great build! I like the work pit in the drive.
Arlo
Adventurer
Thanks Mark. 
Well, making the pit was the very first maintenance on the Land Rover after I bought it. :costumed-smiley-007
No doubt, this was a good decision!
The cover is waterproof because the location is in the open sky, the frames underneath are strong enough to carry the weight of the Land Rover. It's about 10' long, 3' wide. The rear part has to be fold up by hand, then the whole bunch can be lifted up by compressed air, wheels will swing out in the same way, so it can be rolled off easy from the pit by hand even the LR stands on top.
It's a must have! :wings:
Well, making the pit was the very first maintenance on the Land Rover after I bought it. :costumed-smiley-007
No doubt, this was a good decision!
The cover is waterproof because the location is in the open sky, the frames underneath are strong enough to carry the weight of the Land Rover. It's about 10' long, 3' wide. The rear part has to be fold up by hand, then the whole bunch can be lifted up by compressed air, wheels will swing out in the same way, so it can be rolled off easy from the pit by hand even the LR stands on top.
It's a must have! :wings:
Arlo
Adventurer
Troubleshooting with corroded shackle bolts:
This happened several times when I tried to dismantel the leaf springs:
The nut came off but the bolt was just like welded on with the bush.
Next step is awesome but hits the problem:
After drilling out the bolt's rest step by step in my lathe the hole is to be reamed out to 16mm ...
...the thread got to be a metrix one (M16x1,5), ...
and with the addition of a spacer this shackle will do for another long period! :sombrero:
This happened several times when I tried to dismantel the leaf springs:
The nut came off but the bolt was just like welded on with the bush.
Next step is awesome but hits the problem:
After drilling out the bolt's rest step by step in my lathe the hole is to be reamed out to 16mm ...
...the thread got to be a metrix one (M16x1,5), ...
and with the addition of a spacer this shackle will do for another long period! :sombrero:
Last edited:
Mark Harley
Expedition Leader
Very nice rebuild, Shackles and spring will give you many miles now.
Post a picture of the whole assembly when it is together.
Post a picture of the whole assembly when it is together.
Mark Harley
Expedition Leader
That is one thought out set up,
sway bar.
Limiting strap to frame.
compression bump stops.
rod actuated parking brake.
Did your assistant in the second picture lend a paw?
sway bar.
Limiting strap to frame.
compression bump stops.
rod actuated parking brake.
Did your assistant in the second picture lend a paw?
Arlo
Adventurer
Mark,
that's British standard, it's a Sankey, MoD proofed and certified. I like the way they do it.
The black assistant is Arlo. He's always around the house while keeping his territory. So no paw to lend on me.
The rods generate not only the parking brake, they do it generally! No electrical brakes on the old continent!
Some more brake details:
Brake calliper removed
dismanteled and cleaned
long cuppling nut connecting the rod ends to each other
brake "differential"
overview
the main rod is spring loaded
last fork end connected to the main brake lever
I changed the rod size to 8mm (all threads are M8 now), stainless steel rods and fork ends, added a joint to narrow the linkage more to the chassis
and changed the design of the fixing parts a little bit.
The brake lever is located inside this bracket:
The hand brake lever is way too much in space!
It has to be cranked!
Now both of the two work together as necessary!
Black is beautiful, no?
that's British standard, it's a Sankey, MoD proofed and certified. I like the way they do it.
The black assistant is Arlo. He's always around the house while keeping his territory. So no paw to lend on me.
The rods generate not only the parking brake, they do it generally! No electrical brakes on the old continent!
Some more brake details:
Brake calliper removed
dismanteled and cleaned
long cuppling nut connecting the rod ends to each other
brake "differential"
overview
the main rod is spring loaded
last fork end connected to the main brake lever
I changed the rod size to 8mm (all threads are M8 now), stainless steel rods and fork ends, added a joint to narrow the linkage more to the chassis
and changed the design of the fixing parts a little bit.
The brake lever is located inside this bracket:
The hand brake lever is way too much in space!
It has to be cranked!
Now both of the two work together as necessary!
Black is beautiful, no?