Scott B.'s Little Guy Offroad Teardrop Build

[elmo_4_vt]

I'm not really clear on the electrical part... Did you keep the 3rd/additional trailer battery? In my experience, it's VERY nice, if only to be able to power a couple LED lights and charge a phone at night, while not having to be plugged into the truck through the light connection. I think the extra 40lbs there is well spent, and really not doesn't require a second thought once it installed, as mine always come to a full charge just on the trips to and from camping spots, and I've never had to charge it (other than first time of the season, when it hasn't been used in a while). Also, as part of my trailer package, the 12VDC supply disconnects when the truck is off, so you can't use the trucks batteries without the truck key being turned "on" or "accessory". The Ranger will probably be different since it's not a "factory" trailer plug connection, but a different tow vehicle may have the same disconnect feature. Doing away with the 110VAC seems fine. I only plan to keep 1 receptacle and the battery charger circuit on it.

Don

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[Scott B.]

I'm not really clear on the electrical part... Did you keep the 3rd/additional trailer battery? In my experience, it's VERY nice, if only to be able to power a couple LED lights and charge a phone at night, while not having to be plugged into the truck through the light connection. I think the extra 40lbs there is well spent, and really not doesn't require a second thought once it installed, as mine always come to a full charge just on the trips to and from camping spots, and I've never had to charge it (other than first time of the season, when it hasn't been used in a while). Also, as part of my trailer package, the 12VDC supply disconnects when the truck is off, so you can't use the trucks batteries without the truck key being turned "on" or "accessory". The Ranger will probably be different since it's not a "factory" trailer plug connection, but a different tow vehicle may have the same disconnect feature. Doing away with the 110VAC seems fine. I only plan to keep 1 receptacle and the battery charger circuit on it.

Don

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No, I did not put a 3rd battery on the trailer. I am going to build an "extension cord" to go from the 2nd battery to the trailer - to use when camping to power the trailer and not drain the starting battery of the truck.

I went back and forth on this decision. If this does not work well for us, I can always add a battery - the teardrop is wired for it.

 

[Yulli]

I'm wondering if the SS on the RR chasis is enough ground clearance in the back. The RR rounds up at the back where as the SS it straight back. I'd really like to do the SS on the RR chasis but some of the trails I want to do are a little rocky and would be afraid of bottoming out in the rear. I'm wondering if the RR model is just the way to go. I really like the SS features but don't think it'll work for me clearance wise. I'd have to step up to a Moby or AT if I want the nice interior and kitchen and still feel safe on ground clearance.

 

[Scott B.]

Time for some pictures!

At the LG dealer:






I brought my tires to the dealer, to install before taking it home. Also, I wanted to measure the height of the frame/tongue, since I had to go get a receiver drop to go with the MaxCoupler. The tires are BFG 32x11.50-15 KM2s on 15 x 7 American Racing Outlaw II wheels - same size as on my truck.

 

[Scott B.]

I'm wondering if the SS on the RR chasis is enough ground clearance in the back. The RR rounds up at the back where as the SS it straight back. I'd really like to do the SS on the RR chasis but some of the trails I want to do are a little rocky and would be afraid of bottoming out in the rear. I'm wondering if the RR model is just the way to go. I really like the SS features but don't think it'll work for me clearance wise. I'd have to step up to a Moby or AT if I want the nice interior and kitchen and still feel safe on ground clearance.

As you can see from the above pictures, the frame of the teardrop is higher off the ground than my truck's frame. Can you check the departure angle of the RR on the size of tire you want to use?

 

[Yulli]

Can you check the departure angle of the RR on the size of tire you want to use?

I have no idea what that is. I'm a newb to all this. Looking at the pics of some of the other RR/SS combos that some guys in this forum have they just look too low for some of the off-roading I want to do and I don't even do that hardcore of wheeling.

By the looks of your trailer the bigger tire really sets it up a bit higher than others I've seen.

 

[Scott B.]

Less than an hour after arriving home, we started modifying the teardrop - with power tools!

Here you can see marking and measuring for the AT fenders.






Holes drilled.



Silicon applied for bedding and water seal.



Done!



From the inside, you can see the result of through-bolting. Even the acorn nuts give a nice, finished look, the will be covered by the mattress.

 

[Yulli]

Looks good. How are the stock fenders attached since you had to drill through holes?

 

[Scott B.]

Looks good. How are the stock fenders attached since you had to drill through holes?

I'm not positive, but I think they are just screwed into the body. The lower 3 bolts on each end of the fenders (6 per fender) are screwed not through bolted - I couldn't get to them.

 

[Yulli]

So if I ran a 33" tire on the trailer, how would I go about getting it to work with the axle?

 

[AndrewDM]

That looks fantastic.

-Andy

 

[Mark Harley]

Very nice transformation. Looks good with the larger tires and flat fenders.

 

[Septu]

Looks good! Do you have a shot of the trailer from further away (with the new fenders)?

 

[Anonymark]

That is awesome! I had pretty much decided on a 5 wide rough rider, after convincing Mrs Anonymark that a silver shadow couldn't go off road. Now that she has seen this thread I'm in trouble.


Can you post more interior pictures? When's the maiden voyage?

 

[skersfan]

Man that sure changes the look!!!! Looking good.

Suggestion, Have a piece of flat stock 1/8 inch thick from floor to 1 inch above highest bolt, the length of the fender. Drill like holes through it and attach to inside of trailer wall. You are attaching large steel fenders to plywood, with no runners to keep direct hits away from the fenders. Personally I would do the same on the outside to make the trailer wall less accessible to rocks spun into the wheel wells.

I think your departure angle is fine, but would beef it up some by adding 2x2 120 wall under existing rear bumper. That will protect it from when dropping off rock ledges. I would consider protecting the front corners, as it appears the trailer will not track within the trucks track, especially on tight corners. The forward leading edge could clip a rock or stump it seems.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vpsy1161R8Q&feature=player_embedded

This a tough trail for a trailer, but not the toughest by any means. It does show the twisting, dropping that are common on trails in the southwest.

The trailer has 35 inch tires on it. Still got several good wacks on the rear bumper. It was designed to take that, as the whole upper is a steel frame. Not showing this for comparison of trailers but to show you what happens when they hit.

I have done trails in Tennessee, Missouri and North Carolina that have similar areas, but with trees much closer. I am not a big fan of stand alone fenders on a tear drop.