Scout Olympic vs Kenai
- Thread starter GeorgeHayduke
- Start date
Porkchopexpress
Well-known member
Nice video run downs there.
1- Stove: I've been wanting to use a Partner Steel stove instead of their stock Dometic one. I'm beginning to think that isn't an option since I think the camper runs on low pressure propane rather than the high pressure that the Partner Steel stove needs. Partner said I have to use their regulator and that their stove needs 27PSI of propane. SO...I will likely be going with the stock stove, which isn't bad but its not a Partner. Its cool that there is a little quick connect there on the back as I was wondering how all of that would work for cooking outside. We will likely cook outside most of the time. I'll just need a decent length quick connect hose. A little bummed about the partner steel stove not working out but it makes sense.
2- Yeti 1500X - I noticed that this Olympic came with the newer/much better Goal Zero 1500X that has its own regulators built in and has larger power storage etc. I'm not sure when that became a thing, but its a sweet update they snuck in there. Cool to see Scout doing that.
--The guy in the video mentions that the Goal Zero is supposed to be charged by the truck...is that true? It'd be sweet if it charged the GZ while the alternator was running and I didn't have to set that up myself after that fact.
--I spoke with Equipt guys and they said you want to use the APP port on the Goal Zero to run your fridge instead of the cigarette lighter-style port. However you can see the Camper uses that APP port to power the lights etc. Anyone know of how to split that APP port into multiple ports...is there a Y-splitter cable for APP?
I got inside of a Yoho two days ago. Its a tiny little thing but damn if the space doesn't work well. The bed is pretty dang short as the yoho is narrow compared to the Olympic/Kenai (I'm 6-4 tho). Its a cool little rig. The dinette, which is similar to the Kenai's, is pretty cool and I like that design. We were able to sit 2 adults and 2 kids around it, but it wouldn't be a ton of space for plates. All expected stuff. The table is really well made and the swivel system was really, really sturdy and nice. Pretty cool that you can move it around and use it to cook with...or swing out of the way to sit and gear up. You can also collapse it to make the seating area a little more of a "couch". The mattress for the bed isn't super luxurious at all. I'm guessing it'll need a topper for sure. Scout needs to get a cover for the RTT mattress as well...I think its just bare foam up there.
1- Stove: I've been wanting to use a Partner Steel stove instead of their stock Dometic one. I'm beginning to think that isn't an option since I think the camper runs on low pressure propane rather than the high pressure that the Partner Steel stove needs. Partner said I have to use their regulator and that their stove needs 27PSI of propane. SO...I will likely be going with the stock stove, which isn't bad but its not a Partner. Its cool that there is a little quick connect there on the back as I was wondering how all of that would work for cooking outside. We will likely cook outside most of the time. I'll just need a decent length quick connect hose. A little bummed about the partner steel stove not working out but it makes sense.
2- Yeti 1500X - I noticed that this Olympic came with the newer/much better Goal Zero 1500X that has its own regulators built in and has larger power storage etc. I'm not sure when that became a thing, but its a sweet update they snuck in there. Cool to see Scout doing that.
--The guy in the video mentions that the Goal Zero is supposed to be charged by the truck...is that true? It'd be sweet if it charged the GZ while the alternator was running and I didn't have to set that up myself after that fact.
--I spoke with Equipt guys and they said you want to use the APP port on the Goal Zero to run your fridge instead of the cigarette lighter-style port. However you can see the Camper uses that APP port to power the lights etc. Anyone know of how to split that APP port into multiple ports...is there a Y-splitter cable for APP?
I got inside of a Yoho two days ago. Its a tiny little thing but damn if the space doesn't work well. The bed is pretty dang short as the yoho is narrow compared to the Olympic/Kenai (I'm 6-4 tho). Its a cool little rig. The dinette, which is similar to the Kenai's, is pretty cool and I like that design. We were able to sit 2 adults and 2 kids around it, but it wouldn't be a ton of space for plates. All expected stuff. The table is really well made and the swivel system was really, really sturdy and nice. Pretty cool that you can move it around and use it to cook with...or swing out of the way to sit and gear up. You can also collapse it to make the seating area a little more of a "couch". The mattress for the bed isn't super luxurious at all. I'm guessing it'll need a topper for sure. Scout needs to get a cover for the RTT mattress as well...I think its just bare foam up there.
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Porkchopexpress
Well-known member
This video is pretty good. Shows a bit more of the scout camper than anything else I've seen.
GeorgeHayduke
Active member
Definitely a helpful video. I didn’t realize the interior ceiling brackets were part of the roof tent mounting system. The video also shows how the center aisle isn’t really centered. It struck me how the door is really shifted to the driver side and there’s a lot of storage and counter space on the passenger side.
I also can’t believe that the Olympic comes so close to fitting in the Ram bed with the tailgate on but is still half an inch too long. Seems like a major oversight given how popular the Ram platform is for overlanders. At the same time, that slideout tray looks pretty awkward to cook on if you keep the tailgate on.
The Olympic looks like a nice unit, but I’m still really happy about our decision to go with the Kenai.
I also can’t believe that the Olympic comes so close to fitting in the Ram bed with the tailgate on but is still half an inch too long. Seems like a major oversight given how popular the Ram platform is for overlanders. At the same time, that slideout tray looks pretty awkward to cook on if you keep the tailgate on.
The Olympic looks like a nice unit, but I’m still really happy about our decision to go with the Kenai.
Yeah I think the Olympic's issues are around the dinette location. Its a bit weird to get to the bed and its tough to fit people into it. Also there isn't a general place to just sit and put your shoes/boots/ski boots on either. By contrast, even the Yoho's dinette area was fairly functional with myself and 2 kids in there. Plus the table swings around to act as a food prep surface or to just get out of the way for sitting and gearing up
Chorky
Observer
For the power guru's out there. Whats your thoughts on the Yetti 1000 option as a temporary deal until one could install some victron energy goodies.
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The 1000 is discontinued I think. It didn't have a regulator in it either. The 1500x is what the Scouts are coming with now i think and are seemingly better.
Some updated info from Scout (posted from the popup camper thread). Some construction questions came up and I pinged Scout about them.
1- They have a Kenai already built, its going out for testing soon to the CEO & Ryan. The CEO gets way up into Northern Canada etc and puts the units through pretty rough conditions apparently. Delivery of ours will be in January sometime.
2- The roof/solar wiring: this is something they are already working on getting tighter and agree its an area of opportunity.
3- Sealant: the sealant isn't silicon but is a proper Manus-Bond 75 AM. They recommend checking the sealed areas of the camper twice a year at least. If water does get into the wall, it won't rot being composite.
4-Wood Screws/Staples into walls: there are no wood screws or staples used in securing the cabinets to the camper (I didn't ask about wiring loom?). RTA style fasteners with metal strips in the walls allow the cabinets to be secured to the camper structure.
5- Marine flooring isn't secured to the floor but is on top of anti-slip material. This allows you to remove the flooring and shake out dirt/rocks etc. I didn't know this but having kids/waders/dog/bikes etc, I freaking love it. I noticed no slipping at all with this when using it myself...I assumed it was stapled or something.
So all in all, it sounds pretty solid. Its cool that this is the CEO's personal camper as well (he uses an Olympic) and that its definitely getting pushed a bit. Not just RV park camping in Cali. I'm stoked to hear its seemingly well built. That composite structure along with the high-end components is definitely a sweet setup. Again for us, nothing else even comes close simply because they don't legit sleep 4 people. Its in a market of its own.
1- They have a Kenai already built, its going out for testing soon to the CEO & Ryan. The CEO gets way up into Northern Canada etc and puts the units through pretty rough conditions apparently. Delivery of ours will be in January sometime.
2- The roof/solar wiring: this is something they are already working on getting tighter and agree its an area of opportunity.
3- Sealant: the sealant isn't silicon but is a proper Manus-Bond 75 AM. They recommend checking the sealed areas of the camper twice a year at least. If water does get into the wall, it won't rot being composite.
4-Wood Screws/Staples into walls: there are no wood screws or staples used in securing the cabinets to the camper (I didn't ask about wiring loom?). RTA style fasteners with metal strips in the walls allow the cabinets to be secured to the camper structure.
5- Marine flooring isn't secured to the floor but is on top of anti-slip material. This allows you to remove the flooring and shake out dirt/rocks etc. I didn't know this but having kids/waders/dog/bikes etc, I freaking love it. I noticed no slipping at all with this when using it myself...I assumed it was stapled or something.
So all in all, it sounds pretty solid. Its cool that this is the CEO's personal camper as well (he uses an Olympic) and that its definitely getting pushed a bit. Not just RV park camping in Cali. I'm stoked to hear its seemingly well built. That composite structure along with the high-end components is definitely a sweet setup. Again for us, nothing else even comes close simply because they don't legit sleep 4 people. Its in a market of its own.
Another FYI, I've been trying to workout the best electrical setup for plugging in the fridge. The Dometic CFX3 that is optional uses the cigarette lighter port. I'm grabbing a National Luna 72L which has its own hela plug iirc that doesnt exist on the GoalZero. The cigarette plugs/contacts aren't ideal, certainly for fridges so you want to get the fridge off of that kind of plug I've been told (by National Luna and Equipt1). The best option I've found so far is to re-wire on an Anderson Power Pole plug (APP) onto the fridge's cable, pretty simple if you can get your hands on an APP crimper. A high quality, legit Anderson connector from Powerwerx that is rated for 45amps is what you want...at least for the National Luna cable that is 10 gauge wire.
The GoalZero 1500X has one APP port on front...but the camper is using that to power 3 LED strip lights, outdoor sensor light, marine fan, heater fan and a smoke/c02 sensor etc. However, there is a second APP port under the lid of the GoalZero. Its not entirely separate as the max amp draw from BOTH Anderson ports combined needs to remain under 30amps. The camper will only draw about 3amps itself, likely closer to 1 or 2amps. The fridge, with compressor going hard will only max at 8amps and then idle around 1.5 to 2amps I think. So you can get the fridge and the campers electrics all running off APP ports leaving the two 6mm ports and cigarette lighter-style port open. Obviously all the USB/AC ports are open as well.
The GoalZero 1500X has one APP port on front...but the camper is using that to power 3 LED strip lights, outdoor sensor light, marine fan, heater fan and a smoke/c02 sensor etc. However, there is a second APP port under the lid of the GoalZero. Its not entirely separate as the max amp draw from BOTH Anderson ports combined needs to remain under 30amps. The camper will only draw about 3amps itself, likely closer to 1 or 2amps. The fridge, with compressor going hard will only max at 8amps and then idle around 1.5 to 2amps I think. So you can get the fridge and the campers electrics all running off APP ports leaving the two 6mm ports and cigarette lighter-style port open. Obviously all the USB/AC ports are open as well.
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hey svinyard, thanks for all the info. You said that you went with the Partner stove, we are trying to go that route also but have been having difficulty coming up with a simple gas solution due to the regulated pressure difference.Did you come up with a solution? There seems to be 2 options, 1) remove the regulator from the stove and come up with a connector between the existing gas line and the stove. This isn’t great because it appears the stove does not run off the system pressure in the camper. or 2) split the gas line at the tank and run unregulated to the stove. I don’t really like the idea of running high pressure that distance.
hopefully you have a more elegant solution.
Hey, yeah the stove. Well I updated my order to include the Dometic after talking to partner to see if they could support low pressure propane on a quick-connect. They said no.
Running a high pressure line that far isn't great from what I can tell. Also there is the external quick connect for cooking out. It's the right of the front door. I'd like to easily be able to run off that as well.
The Dometic stove isn't awful btw, it's very common in campers (built in). But obviously partner is awesome because of the size, burner spacing, ultra durable and ultra easy to clean. Those are important but I can live with a bit less I think.
Plus it's not a huge money item like the Fridge is. So if we find something awesome a year from now, the upgrade won't break the bank.
Now there are some other stoves that run on low pressure or both if I recall. I'm going to start researching them this week just incase there is another option.
Running a high pressure line that far isn't great from what I can tell. Also there is the external quick connect for cooking out. It's the right of the front door. I'd like to easily be able to run off that as well.
The Dometic stove isn't awful btw, it's very common in campers (built in). But obviously partner is awesome because of the size, burner spacing, ultra durable and ultra easy to clean. Those are important but I can live with a bit less I think.
Plus it's not a huge money item like the Fridge is. So if we find something awesome a year from now, the upgrade won't break the bank.
Now there are some other stoves that run on low pressure or both if I recall. I'm going to start researching them this week just incase there is another option.
That dometic is the direction I am leaning also too much brain damage to resolve it before we have the camper in hand and understand the actual design. The NL75 seems hands down like the best fridge option.
We are also weighing the toilet options as both the airhead and the laveo look to fit really well in the space. I don’t love the idea of the laveo due to the fact that our waste will be sealed up in landfill for thousands of years but the airhead seems to have issues with its ability to dry the bin in our humid climate.
We are also weighing the toilet options as both the airhead and the laveo look to fit really well in the space. I don’t love the idea of the laveo due to the fact that our waste will be sealed up in landfill for thousands of years but the airhead seems to have issues with its ability to dry the bin in our humid climate.