Scoutman
Explorer
Thanks. I hope so too.
The last few nights I've been cleaning yet more butyl tape off, looking things over, still doing homework on adhesives, and wishing I was out camping.
Scoutman's 'new' Starcraft Pine Mtn on Dodge 3500
- Thread starter Scoutman
- Start date
Thanks. I hope so too.
The last few nights I've been cleaning yet more butyl tape off, looking things over, still doing homework on adhesives, and wishing I was out camping.
Scoutman
Explorer
So after floundering around on materials and adhesives I decided to go with some locally sourced Filon glued down to the original structure with Titebond Advanced Polymer Adhesive. I decided to not put 1/8" lauan down and just glue the Filon to the wood ribs and foam core. This kept things lighter and it was how the original camper was made. I didn't like the idea of the lauan up there which would have just been another layer of material that if water did get in would rot. I checked with so many online companies and suppliers and even some local folks for Filon with expensive results ($1000+ for Filon alone!). I eventually found someone who was asking a reasonable price for the stuff to the tune of $8.50 per linear foot off an 8' wide roll. The adhesive was $130 plus shipping from Home Depot. The reason I went with this stuff was after talking to their tech support guys it sounded like it was a stick to everything kind of stuff. There were no special applicators other than a certain groove trowel and cleanup was relatively easy. No special spray guns, humidity requirements (it actually activates and cures with the presense of moisture), and it had a reasonable work time and tack time. Once it was stuck it needed some pressure and then just the time to let cure. A lot of other options were either more costly or I had doubts on whether it would eat the foam or not. This stuff turned out to be similar in consistency to Liquid Nails or peanut butter. We used a knive to scoop it out and get it on the trowel and then worked it till it was the thickness we needed.
I had some help one weekend and we managed to get the camper rolled out of the garage, the shop cleaned up and the Filon clean and wiped with acetone. The camper was hit one last time with the belt sander to get the ribs flush with the foam and the front curve smoothed out. I then took the palm sander to rough up the glue that was already on the foam from the last roof. Lots of shop vac and compressed air time and we were ready to start putting the roof back on. I took good notes on where each rib was located so when I mount solar, etc in the future I'll know where to put it. We glued down the front 1/4 of the roof as a test to see how it was going to work. We figured that it would tell us enough to make the decision to go the rest of the way or not. This was let to cure for a week or so while I was gone on travel. I was pleased with the results so we scheduled another work session for a later weekend.
I had some help one weekend and we managed to get the camper rolled out of the garage, the shop cleaned up and the Filon clean and wiped with acetone. The camper was hit one last time with the belt sander to get the ribs flush with the foam and the front curve smoothed out. I then took the palm sander to rough up the glue that was already on the foam from the last roof. Lots of shop vac and compressed air time and we were ready to start putting the roof back on. I took good notes on where each rib was located so when I mount solar, etc in the future I'll know where to put it. We glued down the front 1/4 of the roof as a test to see how it was going to work. We figured that it would tell us enough to make the decision to go the rest of the way or not. This was let to cure for a week or so while I was gone on travel. I was pleased with the results so we scheduled another work session for a later weekend.
Scoutman
Explorer
Trial run with the electric shears to see how well they'd cut and how close they would cut to the side wall. They turned out doing very well. The nice thing was that there is no dust or fibers to deal with after the cuts. This meant I didn't have to go buy one of those sonic vibrator/cutter tools.
Scoutman
Explorer
So the overhang on either side was pretty easy to trim cause I could just let the shears walk down the side wall. The ends were a different story. I had to somehow get an accurate enough line to not only ensure I had enough to tuck into the front channel but to not have so much that it would create a bulge. It took a good bit of force to get the front to follow the curve of the structure. I ended up using blocks to support the roof and then ratchet straps to force a 2x4 to make the curve. The 2x wanted to creep down so I had to block it up. Once everything was flush I came from the inside to make the first mark with a sharpie...
Scoutman
Explorer
That last line was where the bottom of the trim came to. I needed to make a cut 3/4" higher than that so I clamped a straight edge on, made my offsets, and drew the final cut line.
And this is about where I'm at now...
The thing is that it requires a LOT of force to fold down that front edge and keep it in place. I don't think the glue is going to hold it by itself so I'm looking at putting some clearance lights or something to help hold the center portion down to the front board. Anyone have any thoughts here?
And this is about where I'm at now...
The thing is that it requires a LOT of force to fold down that front edge and keep it in place. I don't think the glue is going to hold it by itself so I'm looking at putting some clearance lights or something to help hold the center portion down to the front board. Anyone have any thoughts here?
brian90744
American Trekker
Heat gun radius, glue fold down, and "C" Clamps. with 8 ft long 2x4. looks great so far.
FYI=brian
FYI=brian
Scoutman
Explorer
I'll have to try the heat gun with a test piece before I do it to the roof. The consequences of cracking it right now are too great.
brian90744
American Trekker
FRT of roof
Don't forget to mark location of marker lites and maybe drill 1/2 hole to lead wires thru before you glued (secured) front of roof. I have used the wifes heater hair dryer on high.
FYI
brian
Don't forget to mark location of marker lites and maybe drill 1/2 hole to lead wires thru before you glued (secured) front of roof. I have used the wifes heater hair dryer on high.
FYI
brian
Scoutman
Explorer
I did pre-drill the holes for the 2 outermost marker lights but if I'm going to put 3 more in the middle I will have to go and drill those. The original idea was to fold the roofing over, glue it down, and then afterwards come back and run the forstner bit from the back to make the outer hole. The holes are pretty big because of the type of light that was used. The bulb can be removed through these holes from the rear. I thought about going back with something different like LED's but really didn't want to get into replacing all the clearance lights if I didn't have to.
Jimmy the Heater
Observer
Wow, I never would have thought such a new rig would have roof troubles. Thanks for taking us along and showing the steps you're going through to take care of it.