seanpistol's 01 Tundra

[northboundtundra]

I tore another CV boot, so I pulled my axles and rebooted them with Bates Porche 930 boots. I had them on my stock CVs and they were great... I didn't tear one in 5 years. I also built my spare. I don't have a comparison photo but they're about double the size of the stock inner boots.

Added ditch lights. Not sure that I'm a fan of how they look, but I need to get them wired and give them a shot. Also added amber covers to my LED fogs.

Pulled my J-shift transfer case to install the FROR twin stick. I wish I did it when I installed the case the first time, but I was on a time crunch. This is the writeup I used - https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/clints-1997-reg-cab-build.280433/page-13

interlock pin has to be removed to allow the two shift forks to move independently-

The overlapping tab on the far right has to be ground off-

Shifters on to make sure it's all working like it should-

Used a snowmobile swaybar from my scrap pile to extend the shifters 6" to line up with the tray in the doublecab center console-

I got another junkyard console because I hacked up the last one. Pretty happy with how the finished product turned out.

Got some wiring to do Friday and I'm ready for Rock Therapy.

Really liking how you set your truck up. How did you get your front differential to engage after installing the manual transfer case? I just did a complete manual transmission swap in mine and I now need to figure out how to get the ADD system to work with the manual transfer case.

 

[01tundraAC]

Pulled this from the thread on TacoWorld @northboundtundra

..................................................
Now on to the front diff. It would be possible to wire up a switch to operate the front actuator, but I wanted to get rid of the electronics in the 4wd system completely. There is a shift fork in the front actuator that slides a sleeve over a gear for 4wd or slides the sleeve off of the gear for 2wd. The shift fork can be locked in place to keep the front in 4wd. With an open front diff and the transfer case in 2wd, this does NOT cause any binding on pavement! Once 4wd is engaged in the transfer case, you will get binding in the front end on pavement as usual. The only con I see to the locked actuator is drag since the front driveshaft is now constantly spinning which I guess could reduce your MPG by a hair.

To lock the shift fork, drain the oil in your front diff and remove the front actuator. Slide the shift fork all the way to the DRIVER side. Install a 3/8" hose clamp and clip the extra length. Do not make it so tight that the shift fork has no play up and down or it will give you a hell of a time getting back in.

Slide the locking sleeve in the housing over the gear. You can confirm that it is in the right position by spinning a tire and seeing the front driveshaft spin. The sleeve will be to the DRIVERS side to line up with the locked shift fork. Replace the word "passenger" with "driver" in this photo-

Add gasket maker to the clean actuator and slide the locked shift fork over the locking sleeve. Confirm that it is locked after installed by spining a tire and looking for the front driveshaft to spin. Install your bolts and refill the front diff. This website explains defeating the ADD in detail, but with passenger and driver sides opposite of what we have going on in our trucks and it should be the same with a 3rd gen 4runner and 1st gen Taco. http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/add/

 

[northboundtundra]

Pulled this from the thread on TacoWorld @northboundtundra

..................................................
Now on to the front diff. It would be possible to wire up a switch to operate the front actuator, but I wanted to get rid of the electronics in the 4wd system completely. There is a shift fork in the front actuator that slides a sleeve over a gear for 4wd or slides the sleeve off of the gear for 2wd. The shift fork can be locked in place to keep the front in 4wd. With an open front diff and the transfer case in 2wd, this does NOT cause any binding on pavement! Once 4wd is engaged in the transfer case, you will get binding in the front end on pavement as usual. The only con I see to the locked actuator is drag since the front driveshaft is now constantly spinning which I guess could reduce your MPG by a hair.

To lock the shift fork, drain the oil in your front diff and remove the front actuator. Slide the shift fork all the way to the DRIVER side. Install a 3/8" hose clamp and clip the extra length. Do not make it so tight that the shift fork has no play up and down or it will give you a hell of a time getting back in.

Slide the locking sleeve in the housing over the gear. You can confirm that it is in the right position by spinning a tire and seeing the front driveshaft spin. The sleeve will be to the DRIVERS side to line up with the locked shift fork. Replace the word "passenger" with "driver" in this photo-

Add gasket maker to the clean actuator and slide the locked shift fork over the locking sleeve. Confirm that it is locked after installed by spining a tire and looking for the front driveshaft to spin. Install your bolts and refill the front diff. This website explains defeating the ADD in detail, but with passenger and driver sides opposite of what we have going on in our trucks and it should be the same with a 3rd gen 4runner and 1st gen Taco. http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/add/

Thanks for the information. I’ve checked this mod out but the thought of leaving it engaged all the bothers me. It sounds like people have been doing it with no issues but right now I’m saving that as a last resort.