Searchin' for a Sub

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
1/2t & 3/4t front axles are the same from the spindles in. The 3/4t has larger OD rotors, but uses the same calipers* as the 1/2t. The wheel hub and the caliper mounts are different, but swapping those parts onto a 1/2t truck is, at most, a couple of hours work. It is a very, very worthwhile swap to do. The difference in brake performance can't be matched by any form of racy, go-faster, stop shorter parts put on a 1/2t brake system.

There are some nuances to the 10 bolt front axles. They have 27 splines where the axles plug into the differential up to about '89 or so. After that they have 30 spline axles. There is a strength difference and those are worth looking for, but I wouldn't buy a truck based solely on those being on the truck.

Also, the later trucks (perhaps those with rear wheel ABS?) have "High Retraction Calipers". These look the same as older calipers, but have a subtle difference internally. My suggestion would be that even though there will be a very small mileage loss to dump them in favor of the older caliper design. This is as simple as giving the parts guy an earlier year truck as the application. I used my old '79 as the model year when I did this. Mixing them will result in a pull towards the side that has the older version in place.

Rear wheel ABS. You will hate this in the dirt. It is NOT a 'smart' system. I unplug the control module hanging on the side of the master cylinder when I'm going to be in the dirt for any period of time. I've been known to forget to plug it back in and I can't tell the difference on pavement. That might be because I've changed over to all 3/4t brake parts, dunno.

*There are some 3/4t's that use a different caliper. Most of these trucks over the span of this body style used the 2-15/16" piston caliper that uses the D52 pad type. Some of the late models, & I do not know the extents because I didn't really care to find out, use a completely different caliper and pad design. They may be a better design, but I prefer the D52 caliper for it's long production run. Meaning replacement parts are easy. I will speculate that if you find a 3/4t with the 14bolt semi-floater rear axle (which other than ring gear size is NOT superior to the 1/2t axle) that you will find these calipers too.
 

West Coast Mags

Adventurer
The 4L80E overdrive vs the TH400 is debateable depending on the tire size you want to run. In my opinion overdrives are good if you run a 33" or less tire, a draw with a non-overdrive from 33" to 35" and the non overdrive is the way to go above a 35" tires. Big tires are hard on overdrive gears, and the taller diameter lessens the rpm when you don't have an overdrive. One of my trucks has 4.56 gears and no overdrive but rolls at 70mph down the freeway fine at the RPM powerband because of the 37" tires. One of my other trucks runs the about same RPM with a 33" tires and an overdrive with 4:10 gears.

When debating overdrive vs. non-overdrive, your desired tire size is the deciding factor.
 

1leg

Explorer
Also, the later trucks (perhaps those with rear wheel ABS?) have "High Retraction Calipers". These look the same as older calipers, but have a subtle difference internally. My suggestion would be that even though there will be a very small mileage loss to dump them in favor of the older caliper design. This is as simple as giving the parts guy an earlier year truck as the application. I used my old '79 as the model year when I did this. Mixing them will result in a pull towards the side that has the older version in place.

I think you just might have solved my slight little pull to the right when braking. :sombrero:

My Suburban came with the larger brakes, can't remember the code off the top of my head. I should order the 79 calipers?
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
You need to figure out if your calipers are the D52 variety or not. If they are, then the '79 application will get you the non high retraction version of the calipers. If they are not the D52 caliper then I'll guess that the sliding surfaces may need some detailing and lubrication. Even if they are the D52's the lubrication is crucial. GM's own brake seminars (as of about 2 years ago) recommended using silicone grease for this. I suggested dielectric grease to the ASE tech who told me about this and he thought that was a good call.

AFAIK the non D52's are two piston, sliding calipers. So they will have both pistons on the inboard side of the caliper. The D52's are a single piston and the casting differences should be quite obvious.

Re: OD vs. no OD. With 3.73's and 285/75's I have found that using OD below ~65 mph indicated is counter-productive. Doing so pulls the engine down too low in rpm's and cost me mileage.
 

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