Series 1 Disco Engine Swap?

[Strider]

My apologies if this has already been answered but I cannot find the information. If it has, please someone direct me to the link.

I am trying to find options for replacing the engine on a 1995 4 liter gas Series 1 Land Rover Discovery. The engine is not in good shape-won't start-and I am considering an engine swap. Does anyone here have knowledge regarding what engine is best and what parts, procedure, etc? I have heard of a Chevy 350 swap but have not found information that seems reliable.

Thank you in advance!

 

[Ray_G]

What engine is best is an exceptionally subjective question, particularly with Land Rovers. The best place to search is Discoweb (search, don't post this up front...it's a rough place but its also filled with volumes more tech than here or Defendersource and the like).

If you have a 95 D1 you should have a 3.9L vice a 4.0L (96 and on, has the GEMS engine management whereas you have the OBD-1 14 CUX setup).
Always easiest to stay OEM; for you that means a 3.9, a 4.2 out of a RRC LWB, or if you want to strip down and build up you could consider a 4.6 but that's not as simple a proposition.

Going outside Land Rover gives you options but will (astronomically) add to price and complication.
What exactly is wrong with the engine-not starting can be a few things, the 14 CUX is a fairly simple setup.
r-
Ray

 

[Strider]

Thank you,

The oem engine is underpowered and I hear they are unreliable. I was thinking of a Chevy 350 conversion (diesel would be awesome but its insanely expensive to do). But perhaps I am wrong and the oem engine can be made reliable. I agree that oem is the easiest way to go, I just wonder about reliability and durability.

I will check out the suggestions you gave.

Thank you!

 

[Ray_G]

You are welcome-and bear in mind that these are really just my opinions based off owning 3x D1's and being a part of the community since the early 2000's. I wouldn't say they are authoritative, just biased by time and experience.

Underpowered is somewhat true; especially for an old/tired 3.9 pushing through the ZF transmission (the automatic, which is a great transmission but does drain power). Refreshing a 3.9 and putting in a new cam may yield significant results. Bear in mind of course we are talking about a truck that is 20yrs old now. A 4.2, refreshed and cammed, would provide a little more. Likewise stroking out to 4.6 goes even further along that curve. I had a 98 with a built 4.6 in her and I found it to be rather adequate in terms of power even lifted with larger tires.

A 350 can be done, like anything with enough $$$ and time it can be done!

Diesel will almost certainly be more underpowered than any gas OE engine you put in there-many have good reasons for going that way or seek the moth to a flame like attraction of diesel but it will never be all that powerful compared to gas unless you shove something significant under the hood (and revisit that $$$$ and time component).

Reliability is another matter, these trucks suffer from a deserved reputation that is often as predicated off poor maintenance as anything. The 3.9L's were rather reliable once you get the dizzy/cap/rotor stuff sorted out, put another way how many miles does your 20yr old truck have on her now before she became unreliable? In all my years with D1's I've been on a roll back going home one time, that was because I grenaded a 140k mile clutch in a streambed like an idiot...that's not the truck's fault, that was me learning. Even when the top end of my 4.6L let go, while towing during a PCS move, the truck still made it to the destination despite being crippled. Reliability is ultimately a facet of the owner's ability to maintain and solve problems to keep the truck in the fight. These are simple trucks and robust, once you learn the basics they don't tend to let you down. The infuriate you...but don't let you down!
cheers-
Ray

 

[JackW]

The 3.9 is a good engine with a mild camshaft upgrade and a Mallory distributor - no powerhouse but it will get you there pretty reliably if you pay close attention to the cooling system. I've known many 3.9 equipped trucks to get past the 200,000 mile mark.

On Defender source there is a thread about an LS Chevy engine swap using a late model all aluminum Chevrolet V-8 and the six speed gearbox from a Yukon. There is an adapter to mate the automatic up to the LT230 transfer case and bolt in motor mounts to drop the whole setup into a D-90, Discovery or Range Rover Classic. Much better choice than a 350 - some folks have said they have bought the engine/transmission set out of a crashed Yukon for $1500.

I have an RPI cam for a 3.9/4.2 motor with very low miles I'll let go cheap if you want to keep it stock.

 

[wreckdiver1321]

Rover engines are funny machines... They're temperamental and fussy. They like to leak, throw codes, and blow gaskets, but they are completely unstoppable. They tend to run forever, even when they are broken. My DII was always like that. Perpetually broken but never broken down.

 

[roverandom]

The Rover V8 was acctually quite powerful for its day. Add to that its lightweight and durability and its easy to see why it had such a long run.

Just be aware that even though it has been upgraded over the years it is based on the old 1960's 215cu" Buick engine so "underpowered" is a relative term as most modern four cylinder engines are more powerful than most of the old V8's.

Either keep it and fix it or sell it and buy one that works. It will be cheaper.

 

[xathor]

The "swap a Chevy 350 in it" mentality is a little dated.

Looking for something:
1.) Cheap?
2.) Reliable up to 500k miles?
3.) Good fuel economy?
4.) Parts found at any auto store in the United States?

Might I suggest instead a LSx swap?

The Chevy LSx motor is found in pretty much all their line of trucks and can be found at junkyards throughout the country. These motors are insanely popular; Information on various aspects of these swaps can be found all over the internet.

I am going to begin doing this swap in the next few months when it starts to warm up. I am shooting for either a 4.8L or 5.3L aluminum block LSx. These engines came in an iron block as well, obviously the aluminum block being lighter.
These engines came with anywhere between 290-310 horsepower and can be easily bumped with a cam swap, although I don't feel this is needed.

I'm still in my research phases, but I have found quite a few YouTube videos on how to modify the ECU and wiring harness to only need 4 wires to hook up. Battery, Ignition, Fuel Pump, Ground.

I have also found plenty of places that sell turn key 5.3L aluminum block kits for $3000 shipped. These kits typically include everything from the alternator, MAF, modified wiring harness, pre-programmed ECU, and drive by wire gas pedal assembly.

 

[roverandom]

Any Domestic V8 swap is a little old hat but while you in your research phase you may as well research transmissions and axles at the same time. No use having all that extra power and not being able to use it.

Or I'll save you the bother. You will need a 4L80E or a truck 4-5speed manual if you want to retain the LT230 transfer case. You can use advance adaptors Dana300 adaptor with the LT230 adaptor added to the end. Now you will need custom axles with LR offset or Toyota 80 series units modified to fit, and obviously new driveshafts.

Bottom line is unless you enjoy a project that will end up totally altering everything in the truck it's better to just fix and warm up the old Rover V8. Even a total performance rebuild is going to be way cheaper than a domestic V8 swap. Plus, the "shop" manual wont be in the form of hand written notes, hastily scribbled on oil stained notebook. Yes, I speak from experience on this.

 

[454]

Everyone mentions swapping in a different engine. Based on what I have seen, very few follow through. If it was as easy as everyone says there would be thirty threads on every forum about it. Fix or replace what you have.

 

[Green96D1]

Rover engines are funny machines... They're temperamental and fussy. They like to leak, throw codes, and blow gaskets, but they are completely unstoppable. They tend to run forever, even when they are broken. My DII was always like that. Perpetually broken but never broken down.

very true my Truck has been burning oil for almost 3 years straight I just maintain the oil changes add lucas oil treatment to keep her moving and I do drive it like a Truck but I have to admit she hasn't failed me and I'm over 200k miles now. with most of that driving climbing grades on the freeway.

 

[xathor]

Any Domestic V8 swap is a little old hat but while you in your research phase you may as well research transmissions and axles at the same time. No use having all that extra power and not being able to use it.

Or I'll save you the bother. You will need a 4L80E or a truck 4-5speed manual if you want to retain the LT230 transfer case. You can use advance adaptors Dana300 adaptor with the LT230 adaptor added to the end. Now you will need custom axles with LR offset or Toyota 80 series units modified to fit, and obviously new driveshafts.

Bottom line is unless you enjoy a project that will end up totally altering everything in the truck it's better to just fix and warm up the old Rover V8. Even a total performance rebuild is going to be way cheaper than a domestic V8 swap. Plus, the "shop" manual wont be in the form of hand written notes, hastily scribbled on oil stained notebook. Yes, I speak from experience on this.

4L80 is way overkill, the 4L60 would be just fine and they are plentiful. So far I am planning on either sticking the 4.8/5.3 on my ZF or swapping to an NV4500 with an adapter for the LT230. Unfortunately the NV4500 is a bit shorter than the 4HP22. I'm not sure that there is room to mount the engine that far back to get the stick in a decent place.

As far as having the extra power and not being able to use it, I rarely if ever go over 2300rpm on my Land Rover unless I am on the interstate. I've only once gotten it up past 3500rpm and that's when I test drove it before I bought it. I'm more interested in the easy parts availability and long life of the LSx swaps. I'm sure it will get better economy as well.

 

[XJLI]

the 4L60 doesn't fit. The front driveshaft would hit the transmission pan.

 

[DiscoDino]

I swapped in an LQ4, NV4500 and Atlas into my D110 HCPU (going to run larger axles/tires), and have "refurbished" with all goodies on my other D110 (CSW) a 1995 Rover 4.2 V8 with goodies, R380 from Ashcroft, LT230 with 2wd conversion, and an Ashcroft under drive (running 37s and stronger R&P gearing)...suffice to say that if you are sticking with anything under 37s, stay stock but build it right...if you want to go for more, the GM route is fun and all and the cost of entry is good, but the hassle is huge...

 

[proper4wd]

The number one question that needs to be understood... how much budget do you have to play with and what is your mechanical/electrical/fabrication skill level?

I know a few people that could complete a nice LSx swap for maybe $4000.

But I know a lot more people that couldn't get a good condition 3.9 tuned up and running properly even with $10,000.