Series Land Rover/Defender internal storage

[Toy-Roverlander]

Thanks for that tip!

I've just been measuring up to fit the ambulance anti-roll bar, and I'm running into problems because of the rear fuel tank (not fitted to ambulances). I might now need that void for the exhaust and fitting a TD5 Discovery anti-roll bar infront of the axle. This type is shorter and sits between the chassis rails, not extending underneath them, so would not foul any part of the chassis or the springs. It could also act as an anti-torque or anti-tramp bar, connected to brackets on the top of the axle via rose joints. It's amazing how complicated mods can get.

I was about to say the same thing, well sort off. I knew aluminium wouldn't be a good idea, stainless steel is better.

I might have missed something, but why do you want to fit a rear anti-roll bar? Do you have parabolics fitted by any chance? That would increase bodyroll. I'm not really a suspension expert but doesn't it help to have twin shock absorbers? That way you don't need the anti-roll bar.

What engine have you got fitted? And what is the vehicle, I still haven't quite figured out whether it's a 110 or a 109"

 

[Snagger]

Higher rated dampers or twin dampers are not the answer - they only help for brief roll resistance, not sustained turns and slopes. If you make the mistake of fitting excessive damping to counter roll, it'll just give a jarring ride while still allowing roll on sustained turns and slopes.

 

[Toy-Roverlander]

Higher rated dampers or twin dampers are not the answer - they only help for brief roll resistance, not sustained turns and slopes. If you make the mistake of fitting excessive damping to counter roll, it'll just give a jarring ride while still allowing roll on sustained turns and slopes.

That makes sense. Never really gave it much thought actually. Anti-roll bars are nice for on the road, my Disco1 has them front and rear, and even with the roofrack and RTT it corners really well with hardly any bodyroll. It just hasn't got much articulation anymore.
And as I want the best offroad performance I have accepted the bodyroll of my 109" (yes, even with multi-leaf springs it really leans into a corner, classic Range Rover style ) And I haven't even got anything on the roof...

 

[Snagger]

Well, I had the rear spring bushes replaced today (I don't have a press, and couldn't be bothered with jacking the vehicle up, so I took it to an LR specialist that owed me a favour). It turns out the springs are a bit tired, having sagged a little and become a bit soft, so that won't have helped the roll. RM want £355 for a full new set, which isn't bad. I fit these TI Console springs 12 years ago, so I got my moneys' worth out of them.

The good news is that we had a play around with the anti-roll bar while it was on the ramps. While the bar won't fit just in front of the bump stops because the diff will hit its centre on full compression of both springs, it does fit just behind the bump stops, clearing both the diff and the fuel tank. The arms sit far enough outboard of the dampers to avoid them, and this new position, unlike the last plan, doesn't even need me to alter the exhaust at all. I fit the special spring plates (like the front ones, but the bar's vertical link sits on the bushed spiggot instead of a damper). All I need to do is have some brackets made to allow the bar's D-bush clamps to bolt to the chassis.

Back on topic, a friend is going through a very messy divorce. He has two young kids, but has problems taking them out because his D90 has only two seats. Since I have only twice used my third row folding seats, I have given them to him to fit to his 90. The space occupied by them is now dedicated to those galvanised 330x700mm lidded boxes. They'll be powder coated and fitted with over-centre catches before being bolted to the wheel arch tops. Their front edges are dead flush with the side of the wheel arches, and they extend all the way back to about 5mm off the side panel (so any large items that dent the back of the box won't dent the vehicle side). The lids are level with the ledge on the inside of the hard top side panel, a little above the galvanised tub capping.

 

[nickt]

Darin started a related thread over at the HUBB. Some shots of my 110 storage system there.

Nick.

 

[Snagger]

An update, now I have removed the unused rear-most fold-up seatd and fitted the custom storage boxes (I just need to fit the catches to the left box, which should arrive tomorrow after the supplier only sent me one pair instead of the two pairs ordered and invoiced - it'll take five minutes since I've pre-drilled the rivet holes).

I had the boxes, made of galvanised steel sheet, powder coated the same colour (9016) as the Mobile Storage Systems box on the back door, which is the closest powder coat standard colour match to the LR grey vinyl. I'll be fitting D-ring lashing points to the tops of the lids so that I can tie down hold-alls or camp chairs to the lids.

 

[Toy-Roverlander]

That looks very neat! Well done!

I like how you stowed your High-lift too, good spot. Only when it gets muddy I would rather have it stowed outside. But that has its disadvantages too..

 

[86cj]

Great thread and thanks for putting it here. I have a Jeep and storage ideas are universal.............

Is it just me or does TeriAnn seem like someone that would be really cool to sit around a campfire with....

 

[Snagger]

I like how you stowed your High-lift too, good spot. Only when it gets muddy I would rather have it stowed outside. But that has its disadvantages too..

The problem with external storage is rusting (and theft). Since the vehicle is mostly used for commuting to work, I also didn't want an ugly jack adorning the vehicle.

You can't really see them in that photo, but small Quickfists hold the wheel brace and bottle jack below the farm jack's upright. The Anderson socket is for jump starting, with the twin batteries in the rear tool locker underneath the new chest (not fitted on Defenders, but standard for 109s). The bottle jack is secured with a large Quickfist to the black upright for the left rear seat, next to the farm jack's main workings and foot, and in front of the T-Max tyre inflator (in the black bag). The space under the right seat allows perfectly for the plastic Stanley tool box - it was a pure chance, but it fits with about 20mm lateral spacing and less than 5mm vertical, sticking out aft only about 25mm when the front end is flush with the seat support; it was an incredible piece of luck.

 

[RgrBox]

Excellent job there Snagger.. I'm in the process of setting mine up on a simular plan. But I have to do it myself and with out much money. I though about just doing most out of wood. And I only plan to do this in the rear of the 110. Due to my truck also having to hump around a family of four. But I like your layout. I saw where a German company makes simular side storage boxes for Defenders, but they cost toooo much. Over 400 euros each. I though i could make they myself out of wood. Ans even cover them in Aluminum. Anyway, I like what you've done with yours.. those tow side sotrage boxes are perfect. and very prof. done. You have a contact on who you had make those for you?

Thanks for showing, and th egreat ideas.

RB

 

[Snagger]

The guy that made them was on www.landrovernet.co.uk , using the name "Se7enup". He's taking orders for a final batch, so have a look on the Defender, Series LR or General Discusion sub-forums on there. I hope you catch him in time!

The only criticism I'd make of these boxes, especially for their price, is that he wasn't able to make a front opening version that would allow other items to be left on top of them. However, they're very light, galvanised and cheap, and he makes them to custom lengths at no extra cost.