service bed offroad trailer build

blazinchuck

Bronco Enthusiast
picked up this s10 service bed last sat for $300. brought it home and removed the body from the s10 frame. began making a new frame. Im almost finished with the frame part, still have to order the axle/springs. the frame is 2x2x1/8". i weighed the body, not too bad...rear was 250, front was 190...so 450lbs should be doable. the plan is 33" tires, so after everything..the trailer should be under 800lbs-i hope. here are some pics.

please tell me i'll be fine with the 1/8 wall stuff??? i can tell you it wont be going "offroad"...but it will have the look and could go on the trails. ill post a pic as soon as i finish the tongue. but here are some for now.Chuck
 

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tgreening

Expedition Leader
3/16" would have probably been better, but you will probably be alright with what you've got but...if that bit of frame in the picture is "finished" except for the tongue area I would certainly add some more cross pieces. Everywhere. I'd put at least two more in each boxed in area. You say no off road now, but you're going to have the gear, and it has a way of eventually sucking you in. :)
 

blazinchuck

Bronco Enthusiast
thanks, now im kinda worried...as i welded the rest of everything, the tongue has decided to move some. as i have to tongue notched 1" into the 2" frame...it should sit 1" off the floor when the frame is laying upside down. however the tip of the tongue is on the floor. i also feel i made a big mistake in designing the tongue. because i made the frame first, i decided to notch the center tube (tongue) to fit onto the cross braces. i think this is where it began to tweak when welding. i should have notched the cross pieces so that the center tube would be as strong as it could. what a screw up!!! here are some more pics...im debating cutting all the welds and replacing the center with 2x2x3/16 or even 2x2x1/4.....DAMNIT! I'm sure i cant get all the welds cut in some of the corners.


talk to me guys, please
 

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quickfarms

Adventurer
I think you will have issues with that frame for several reasons.

There are too many short pieces of steel welded together.

The tongue is severely undersized.

You do not have direct load paths.

The standard way to build a trailer is to create a box for the frame that connects the suspension to the body. The side rails should be continuous using rectangular box tubing. There should be cross members at the front, back spring hangers and as needed. The tongue should be a continuos piece from the coupler to the rear spring hanger, typically 3x3 or 3x4 box tubing.

Since you have already built the trailer I would double the tongue and the suspension box.
 

blazinchuck

Bronco Enthusiast
well, i felt the same way about the tongue...but dont worry. its gonna get fixed! the tongue has been completely removed!!! lets see...it only took one hr, 2 grinding wheels,5 cut-off wheels, and 2 saw-sall blades. basically, i will be doing it the way i felt it should be...notch the cross members, and lay the 2x2x3/16 or 1/4...still undecided on the thickness yet. i may run 2 cross members of the same thickness from the center tongue to each of the front and rear spring hangers. that should really tie everything together and strong. hes a pic for your enjoyment lol...

i'll have to go get more steel tomorrow. once again...lemme know your thoughts on a thickness. or just tell me now, if its completely wrong and start over-but dont forget to show me some pics of how i should have gone. thanks for yalls help
 

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cwm

Observer
Why are you notching all these pieces? Just have the basic trailer frame sit over the tongue A frame. The ends of the A arms in your picture look like you stopped them on the inside of the frame with a butt weld. Continue them to the outside of the frame and you have at least two welds since the frame sits on the A arms.
 

Cringe

Observer
Have you thought about an adjustable length tongue? I figure now would be the time since you have it torn apart again. Then you could make your A-frame "deeper" to tie it back farther into the frame but still be able to adjust it longer for clearance. Or you could maybe do something like this guy did...regardless, hope this helps and I look forward to seeing where you go with this build!

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/tow-rigs-trailers/818289-off-road-trailer-build.html

tongueframe002.jpg
 

blazinchuck

Bronco Enthusiast
been looking at a lot of frames that were built. seems most use 2x3x.120 wall...i really would like to stay as light as i can. as for the frame shape...its exactly as wide as i could go under the utility box and allow for tires to fit in the fenders. would a 2x2x3/16 with A-frame gussets be more than strong enough for a tongue? also those using .120 wall as i am...is that enough for spring perches to be welded too? been looking at my utility trailer i bought 12 yrs ago(5x8). everything is 1.5x1.5x3/16 angle iron with a 2x2x.120 tongue...i have used the heck out of that with zero issues.

so far the steel cost $116(48') now ive made the tongue worthless. as for notching the frame...i have to now...because after cutting out the tongue, i have no choice...or i have to ditch the frame and start all over. what say you? thanks again for yalls help,Chuck
 

croix

Observer
Tongue strength calculator

Every time the topic of tongue strength comes up I like to share this:
.
http://www.angib.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/teardrop/tear84.htm
.
The "Tongue Strength Spreadsheet US" allows you to punch in variables for your intended purpose, load weight, tongue length etc. and see what thicknesses provide the support you need for various size tubing or c-frame. It's pretty cool.
.
-Croix
.
BTW - cool Bronco :)
 
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AZ_Ray

Observer
I went with 3"x4" .120 wall.....mine is a lot heavier.... You should be fine even off road.

As far as frame design I'd start over.....as mentioned before, main frame rails should be continuous.... Sorta like mine.





My tongue is 3x3x3/16.

I don't have pictures of it but both small boxes front and rear are gusseted in all four corners.
 

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