Should I get a Subaru
- Thread starter keane
- Start date
Howdy keane, I believe you're looking at the right car: Daily Driver, reasonable MPG's, weekend hauling chores. I'm not sure how high up is Prince George, but as your weekend destination gets higher/steeper/rougher a Turbo Forester with automatic (2004-2006 FXT/4EAT) would do all you're looking for and fit your budget.
Cherry-picking some of the previous comments, get familiar with required scheduled maintenance before you shop, look for well-documented maintenance and no damage history. Have a pre-buy inspection performed by your mechanic (FWIW, I hear there's bunches of good Subie shops up there).
Good Luck!
Cherry-picking some of the previous comments, get familiar with required scheduled maintenance before you shop, look for well-documented maintenance and no damage history. Have a pre-buy inspection performed by your mechanic (FWIW, I hear there's bunches of good Subie shops up there).
Good Luck!
calicamper
Expedition Leader
You only burn a clutch if your slipping it. If your slipping it your doing it wrong. My 2001 towed two different racing sailboats from 2001 through 2010 and I replaced the clutch at 140,000 miles due to the release bearing failing clutch had about 5% meat left on it. That was San Francisco living, Bay Area commuting and towing a boat up and down the coast SF to SD and SF to the sierra lakes in the summer months never had a single issue with the clutch even hauling out on steep boat ramps no slipping needed dump it and go chug chug up the hill.
The primary weakness is cooling doesn't matter which engine you have the wedge body shape provides a weak cooling ability even no trailer going from LA to Palm springs up I10 with a decent head wind in 90 degree temps there were a few trips I had to slow from 75mph to 70mph to keep running temp in the normal range that was no trailer and a roof box, running synthetic oil.
Towing the 600lb trailer we crossed the Grape Vine many times also from Fresno up to Huntington lake anyone familiar with those climbs both are typically hot and long and hard on vehicles at 600lb trailer we took our time 3200rpm and did not use the AC and ran the heat in some spots to help shed heat and keep running temp normal. The 1800lb boat we did cool temp trips no problem and generally avoided climbs. Anything in the 80 degrees and up outside temps with the 1800lb all up boat behind us had temps spike on any climb. Cooler temps it was fine no issues. Clutch was a non issue with that boat also even by accident crossing Cobb Mountain got a little lost headed to Clear Lake CA with the boat in tow. Good thing I won that event made the adventure getting there worth it. The 2001 2.5 5spd MT chugged up the mountain through the tight switch backs and took down a couple tree branches but we made it unscathed thats the only trip I was worried about not having the grunt to make the climb. Other than a few stupid steep driveways and a couple of off road adventures where you would have used 4low anyway and the Subaru lacked the gearing to make it work. So we walked in no big deal.
180,000 miles on that car when we wanted the new larger version should have kept it was far more fun to drive on Highway 1 than the current OB.
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calicamper
Expedition Leader
The old 4spd AT's are very durable they do have plumbing and can support added cooler though finding an effective place to locate the cooler is another challenge. Exhaust heat and the over all ability to shed heat is the one big challenge with any of the cars till the major redesign in 2010. My 2010 is far far superior at dumping heat and staying cool than my old one. Better exhaust system and better air flow through the engine compartment and better radiator coverage etc. The CVT so far is proving to be pretty nice also tows well but its not life time fluid they need to be drained and filled around 60K or the fluid starts getting dark and it sounds like some shift Solenoids may get grumpy with the cruddy fluid over time.
I went with a 5spd MT when the 4spd AT was the only other choice and its a wise call. 1st is too tall for trail work but you can pull boats out of lakes up boat ramps and drive through SF on steep hills with the boat in tow with no issues just dump the clutch and peg the go pedal did that with mine pretty much all 180,000 miles I had it no issues.
The new subaru we have not so new now is 2010 CVT 2.5 currently at 60K. Tows great better cooling better built mechanically speaking but fit and finish interior bits probably are not as nice as the old 2001 car.
I went with a 5spd MT when the 4spd AT was the only other choice and its a wise call. 1st is too tall for trail work but you can pull boats out of lakes up boat ramps and drive through SF on steep hills with the boat in tow with no issues just dump the clutch and peg the go pedal did that with mine pretty much all 180,000 miles I had it no issues.
The new subaru we have not so new now is 2010 CVT 2.5 currently at 60K. Tows great better cooling better built mechanically speaking but fit and finish interior bits probably are not as nice as the old 2001 car.
Thanks for the input all. From what I have found we are probably going to try and find a 2.5 forester with a 5 spd. There are a couple that i have come across that seam to be worth looking at. As for off road, we just need it for dirt roads as we have this for the more 4x4 type terrain.
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And for towing, most of it keeps us with in a couple hours from home. And I towed our little trailer around with the vibe no problem and it only had a 1200lbs tow rating. And never had a clutch or cooling problem with that little car. So for the amount of time and distance that it will be used for towing it really isnt a large concern for me.
I havent seen any with turbo's for sale yet so will stick to the regular 2.5. Allso is there anyway to tell from just looking at the engine to see if the head gasket has been done?
And for towing, most of it keeps us with in a couple hours from home. And I towed our little trailer around with the vibe no problem and it only had a 1200lbs tow rating. And never had a clutch or cooling problem with that little car. So for the amount of time and distance that it will be used for towing it really isnt a large concern for me.
I havent seen any with turbo's for sale yet so will stick to the regular 2.5. Allso is there anyway to tell from just looking at the engine to see if the head gasket has been done?
calicamper
Expedition Leader
Thanks for the input all. From what I have found we are probably going to try and find a 2.5 forester with a 5 spd. There are a couple that i have come across that seam to be worth looking at. As for off road, we just need it for dirt roads as we have this for the more 4x4 type terrain.
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And for towing, most of it keeps us with in a couple hours from home. And I towed our little trailer around with the vibe no problem and it only had a 1200lbs tow rating. And never had a clutch or cooling problem with that little car. So for the amount of time and distance that it will be used for towing it really isnt a large concern for me.
I havent seen any with turbo's for sale yet so will stick to the regular 2.5. Allso is there anyway to tell from just looking at the engine to see if the head gasket has been done?
2000 through mid 2002 it was actually a bad gasket my 2001 had this Subaru replaced it. Leaked externally driver side bottom back corner right after shutting down you could spot the coolant drips before the hot exhaust evaporated the evidence. At 180,000 miles it was fine no issues no HG leaks. I'm pretty sure from 2005 and on like the 4.6L Toyota Land Cruisers the HG failures are heat related the cooling system in the subarus up through 2009 were not exactly robust any little thing that was off could easily cause a temp spike and people not paying attention will run them hot down the highway at 70+mph and bingo you have a HG failure. The 2005's and later the HG more often than not is an external oil leak that makes a mess. Don't confuse that though with the driver side front bottom corner behind the timing belt cover leaky Oring on the oil pump which my dealer told me was part of their trade in check given cars with known very good oil change history don't have the leaky Oring till 180,000 ish miles cars with very spotty oil change history show up with the leaky Oring far far earlier. They said that maybe 50% of the TB service jobs involves a leaky oring replacement on the oil pump during the TB service.
The oil leak mess from a leaky HG tends to be farther back bottom corner of the heads where it seems to collect and make a mess. My 2001 at 180,000 miles had a clean underside no oil leaks or mess. Only buy an old used car from a private seller best with some paper history on it also you can call your local dealer ask the service department to confirm any service records they might have etc. Call sorta goes like this - Hey I'm looking at this car can you check the Vin XXXX let me know the last mileage point Subaru has seen it and what that service was for. I did that with the mercedes we bought grandpa last spring dealer service guy says sure no problem I see at XXXX miles we did X in 2012 Ok thanks end of the call. It helps you get a full picture and also confirm the documented mileage! ;-) Seller says it has 60K on it but your vin service call they tell you it got a transmision service in texas at 150,000 miles last year. Ok hmmm interesting thanks.
reachdean
Observer
I've got a 2006 2.5l NA Forester, with a 5 spd with just under 190,000km on the clock. It's my second Subaru (Had a 1997 Impreza before that).
I bought the Forester used a couple of years ago, complete with the HG oil leak. Being aware of the leak made it easy to bargain for a lower price. I kept an eye on the leak and the coolant temps, and when the mileage rolled into range to do the timing belt and water pump, I had the HG done at the same time to save on costs for pulling the engine, etc. Since then, it's all be tight and dry. I've known people to go years with leaking HG without having any major problems. However, on my old red car, I had a HG fail internally within a matter of days, sidelining the car. I'd rather get them replaced than end up stranded somewhere. Even with all that said, they're great cars.
I bought the Forester used a couple of years ago, complete with the HG oil leak. Being aware of the leak made it easy to bargain for a lower price. I kept an eye on the leak and the coolant temps, and when the mileage rolled into range to do the timing belt and water pump, I had the HG done at the same time to save on costs for pulling the engine, etc. Since then, it's all be tight and dry. I've known people to go years with leaking HG without having any major problems. However, on my old red car, I had a HG fail internally within a matter of days, sidelining the car. I'd rather get them replaced than end up stranded somewhere. Even with all that said, they're great cars.
Neither. Be a little more patient and should find one that fits. Not sure how the market is up in BC, but here in Ontario one should be able to get a 2003-2007 with 100-160K kms for $4500-6500 depending on condition. IMO the 2006 you have pointed will start to show its mileage with many different maintenance items, the other will start showing its age. Here rust is a major issue, not sure how it is there, but here it is very hard working on an older car/truck that has not being oil-sprayed. If it were me I would wait, possibly even travel a bit to try to find a clean low mileage car. Cheers and good luck.
Hondaslayer
Adventurer
186k isn't too bad on that 06, but that 98 I would plan on a 2.2 swap. Our 98 has served us well and is pushing 300,000 miles. I did the headgaskets at 160k when we bought it and it's looking like they are starting to go again. Good thing I already have a spare 2.2 in the garage 
How long do you plan to keep the car and how many miles per year? 5 years @ 15k per year that 06 would be pretty much done.
Either way, I also vote for waiting a bit longer, especially if you can find an SH chassis.
How long do you plan to keep the car and how many miles per year? 5 years @ 15k per year that 06 would be pretty much done.
Either way, I also vote for waiting a bit longer, especially if you can find an SH chassis.
I bought my first Subaru in 1980, and the last one in 2007, with 5 in between. They are one of the best cars on the market, in my estimation. For the average driver, they're near bomb-proof and will surprise you how far they'll take you off-road or in really lousy weather. They're well thought out, well executed cars...you pretty much can't go wrong with one
Thanks again for the all the input. Prices seam to be a bit higher here. We can wait a bit but unfortunately not to long as trying to pack the family in a little Mazda b4000 is a bit fun. We did find another one. A 2006 141,000km and asking $9000. 2 owners and they new each other.
Also I don't know all the different sub models that are available. Is there a list some where that breaks them down.
Also I don't know all the different sub models that are available. Is there a list some where that breaks them down.
reachdean
Observer
For all your Subaru spec questions...
http://www.cars101.com/subaru_archives.html
AS a point of reference, my 2006 Forester 2.5x (base model) had 140,000kms on it when I bought it 20 months ago, for $8500 plus Tax, in Ontario. It's been a great car, and perhaps that's just the price difference between the two provinces. Mine only came with one set of (very worn) tires though, so add in replacement summers and then a set of winters, and I'm into it for more than the original price.
http://www.cars101.com/subaru_archives.html
AS a point of reference, my 2006 Forester 2.5x (base model) had 140,000kms on it when I bought it 20 months ago, for $8500 plus Tax, in Ontario. It's been a great car, and perhaps that's just the price difference between the two provinces. Mine only came with one set of (very worn) tires though, so add in replacement summers and then a set of winters, and I'm into it for more than the original price.
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