Show me your Internal Canopy Frame
- Thread starter Jersey4x4
- Start date
I welded the cross bars onto some 2x1 rectangular bar, then bolted the bars through the bed rails. Looking back I would of used some angle iron and bolted it through the sides of the bed rails to prevent water from getting into the 2x1. In the end I think it turned out well, but there are some small things here and there I'd change if I were to do it again.
1stDeuce
Explorer
WOW! That is pretty dang nice!! I built the same thing but only a front and rear hoop for a S-10 a long time ago, and I used angle for the base, which worked out well. I think I just used topper clamps to hold it down, with some of that 1/8" thick foam underneath and it never moved, but I was only carrying kayaks on it, so not a lot of weight.
Guess I don't have any up close pictures... Here's about the best one I found. Tube was 1-3/4 x .109" wall IIRC. Angle was 2" x 2" x 1/8". I never made a cover for it, but did put a bed light on it, and two backups, which worked VERY nice for camping.
I need to build something for my Comanche project soon, and your cover is exactly what I had in mind. So the sides zip on, which is a cool idea. I was just going to have it all be one piece, and roll them up when I wanted it open. I figure they cay velcro to the angle at the bottom, and the velcro will probably provide enough stiffness that my wife and I can get them rolled and strapped up. Do you have a rear window in it? How much water leaks in around the cab if it rains? I'm not really looking to seal it to the cab, but I don't want too much of a mess in the bed if it's rainy, and I'll have to put something on the back too to at least cut down on the dust. Mine will be to provide a bit of occasional shelter to two dogs and camping gear.
Thanks for any info and pics!!
Chris
Last edited:
Thanks for the comments. I think I have a basic writeup of how I did this in my build thread, linked in my sig. I loosely based this on the discontinued Canback top. I used 1 3/4" 0.120 DOM tube for the hoops to give it strength to carry loads on top. A rack can be mounted to the nuts I welded near the top. Some rubber grommets help seal the hole through the canvas.
It ended up dead level using Yakima racks, but overall it sat too high and I didn't like that.
Here is the rear window, with an identical one up front.
All sides rolled up.
The sides, front, and rear can be zipped on or off from outside or inside. Looking back I would of sewed the tie ups closer to the corners as the fabric will droop after a while. Whenever I take off the cover one day, I will add some more tie ups to remedy this. Velcro at the bottom should work well. I used some snaps and I do like them. They are the type that will only release when pulled in one direction. I think I placed one every 9 inches, but would change it to 6-7 inches if I redid it. Most of the time it does not leak, but if the rain lasts long enough or is pretty heavy, it will make its way in. This is mostly from the fabric (Sunbrella marine) just becoming saturated and dripping from everywhere. Unfortunately I didn't sew the zippers closer to the edges of the front and rear panels, so there are some small leaks there too. When the top is off I will add some velcro there to help keep it closed.
It ended up dead level using Yakima racks, but overall it sat too high and I didn't like that.
Here is the rear window, with an identical one up front.
All sides rolled up.
The sides, front, and rear can be zipped on or off from outside or inside. Looking back I would of sewed the tie ups closer to the corners as the fabric will droop after a while. Whenever I take off the cover one day, I will add some more tie ups to remedy this. Velcro at the bottom should work well. I used some snaps and I do like them. They are the type that will only release when pulled in one direction. I think I placed one every 9 inches, but would change it to 6-7 inches if I redid it. Most of the time it does not leak, but if the rain lasts long enough or is pretty heavy, it will make its way in. This is mostly from the fabric (Sunbrella marine) just becoming saturated and dripping from everywhere. Unfortunately I didn't sew the zippers closer to the edges of the front and rear panels, so there are some small leaks there too. When the top is off I will add some velcro there to help keep it closed.
Forgot to mention, the horizontal bars in the middle of the cross bars, are bolted through 1/4" plate welded to the cross bars. I made 4, and each one can fit into any section of the frame. Originally I planned on drilling through the tube and bolting the braces to them, but I figured this was just a way for water to get inside resulting in rust, and limited me to installing them on to that one location. The way I made it I can bolt them on the inside (most of the time) and it allows the sides to be fastened while using them. Or for easier access I can flip them around and bolt them on the outside of the 1/4" plates to give easier to access to whatever is mounted to them, but this means the sides have to be rolled up or removed.
Robert Bills
Explorer
. . . I loosely based this on the discontinued Canback top. . . .
Is Can-Back now completely defunct? It's too bad if it is because the company had a great design
Here are some photos of thje Can-Back top on my '46 Bantam T3-C trailer. The top was custom made by Can-Back's original owner when the company was still located in Azusa CA.
eurosonic
Expedition Leader
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