Skittles, fill them with Skittles and you'll never starve if you're stuck in a snow storm.
Ski Bum Truck V2.0, F450 Rough Road RV
- Thread starter java
- Start date
Skittles, fill them with Skittles and you'll never starve if you're stuck in a snow storm.
dwh
Tail-End Charlie
Won't hurt. But they'll still be a cold bridge even packed with foam. Gotta be furred out no matter what.
java
Expedition Leader
Thats my worry as well. I'm not really sure. My thinking is it may slow it down if the tube is filled.
java
Expedition Leader
Just for clarity, here is the wall section. I am taking about filling the hollow area.
My door showed up, but the UPS guys had their way with it
, edges are good and dented in a few places....
Picked up a used inverter/charger as well, only 1250 watts, but should run a microwave (i hope!). Charges at 55 amps, a bit slow there as well, but the price was right. Came with a 200A Blue sea breaker too.
My door showed up, but the UPS guys had their way with it
, edges are good and dented in a few places....
Picked up a used inverter/charger as well, only 1250 watts, but should run a microwave (i hope!). Charges at 55 amps, a bit slow there as well, but the price was right. Came with a 200A Blue sea breaker too.
java
Expedition Leader
Ok here's a question.
I have dual 120 amp alternators, what amperage should I assume my house batteries might see? A full 240? Ther are two starting batteries to run through, and 25' of wire. And 120 amps is going to be peak output.
Thoughts? Is a 200amp breaker good on the main house to starting battery run? I have a 160 amp combiner I was planning to use, but that seems undersized now.
I have dual 120 amp alternators, what amperage should I assume my house batteries might see? A full 240? Ther are two starting batteries to run through, and 25' of wire. And 120 amps is going to be peak output.
Thoughts? Is a 200amp breaker good on the main house to starting battery run? I have a 160 amp combiner I was planning to use, but that seems undersized now.
dwh
Tail-End Charlie
Power to the house batteries doesn't flow through the starting batteries, it flows around them.
Diplostrat has dual 125s with modern computer controlled temp sensing voltage regulation, a big house battery bank and an electric stove that drags the batteries down. As I recall, he normally sees 150a peaks for a few hours before the battery resistance rises and the amp flow starts to drop.
Worst case, low battery and heavy inverter load at the same time the engine is running, you could potentially see the full 240a till the alternators got hot. Unlikely, but possible.
I think you'd be fine assuming 200a will be the max. So the 200a breaker would be fine as long as the wire is rated to carry 200a.
Diplostrat has dual 125s with modern computer controlled temp sensing voltage regulation, a big house battery bank and an electric stove that drags the batteries down. As I recall, he normally sees 150a peaks for a few hours before the battery resistance rises and the amp flow starts to drop.
Worst case, low battery and heavy inverter load at the same time the engine is running, you could potentially see the full 240a till the alternators got hot. Unlikely, but possible.
I think you'd be fine assuming 200a will be the max. So the 200a breaker would be fine as long as the wire is rated to carry 200a.
java
Expedition Leader
Thats exactly what my thinking was, its possible to see 240A but highly unlikely.
Now the issue I am running into is finding a battery combiner that will handle 200A continuous. I have one that is rated at 150 Continuous, and 200A for 5 min.
From the Manual is says:
"FEATURES
< 150 amps continuous rating, 400 amps closing current (2
seconds), 200 amps for 5 minutes
< Suitable for alternators up to 200 amps, up to 18 volts"
Good for 200A alternators? Seems like they de rate the alternators a fair bit.
This is rated at 500A https://www.bluesea.com/products/7620/ML-ACR_Automatic_Charging_Relay_-_12V_DC_500A Not cheap though.
java
Expedition Leader
OK arm chair engineers! I need some opinions.
I want to mount propane tanks on the back. Two 20# BBQ style ideally.
The doors are insulated refrigerator doors, They have these hinges, four of them per door.
Do you think they will hold up to two tanks mounted to the door? They seem pretty beefy to me, I hung on the door open, and that didnt casue any issues, but its not bumping down the roads constantly.
Thoughts? :coffeedrink:
I want to mount propane tanks on the back. Two 20# BBQ style ideally.
The doors are insulated refrigerator doors, They have these hinges, four of them per door.
Do you think they will hold up to two tanks mounted to the door? They seem pretty beefy to me, I hung on the door open, and that didnt casue any issues, but its not bumping down the roads constantly.
Thoughts? :coffeedrink:
Bubblegoose1
@PNWINFERNOPRO
Those hinges are very stout. I was a Route Salesman for Dreyers for a couple years. Be amazed at what those hinges and doors will handle.
Are you planning on bolting through the doors with the tank mounts? Or using the hinges as mounting points?
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Are you planning on bolting through the doors with the tank mounts? Or using the hinges as mounting points?
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java
Expedition Leader
That's my feeling as well. I was planning to through bolt through the door. I could likely figure out attaching to the hinges if needed.
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Bubblegoose1
@PNWINFERNOPRO
Bolt through the door, with aluminum plating on the inside. Leave the hinges untouched.
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Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
