Slow JK Weekend Warrior Build...

[lax71vcu]

I have owned a 2010 JKU rubicon for about a year now. I have been wheeling it and daily driving it and am still unsure of where my next moves need to be as far as outfitting. I want to have a rig that is capable of weekend overlanding with my new family, (me, wife, and 10 month old). This is why I bought the JKU rubicon.

So far I have:

1. built a rear storage shelf
2. Installed PSC Evap Skid
3. Flipped the Electro Disconnect Motor
4. Installed Aux Auto Trans Cooler
5. Installed Aeroforce Interceptor Gauge
6. Relocated all breathers ( Front and Rear diff, Auto trans, and Transfer Case).
7. Oh and I have a CB but it is getting some warranty love right now.
After all this and taking it Trail riding this past weekend I noticed my Trans still saw 190 degrees ( is this still too hot for the JKU? Even though we run a synthetic Trans fluid)

This thing just generates heat it was 66 degrees and while crawling on the trail with the windows down I felt like I needed the A/C on at times. (didn't do it though).

My next things to do will probably be taller skinner tires... 255/80/R17's Probably.

I was thinking small lift i.e. nothing over 2". I really wanted the OME but apparently they can and often do yield over 2". This is not what I am looking for. Just a bit more room for the larger skinny tires if needed. Any suggestions on good, complete, lift packages?

Any other suggestions/ input for things to tackle on a limited budget? I have thought about a Trailer build but am nervous about how much heat towing a trailer would generate.

Thanks

 

[m(a)ce]

Your build sounds great so far. I'm interested to see what direction it goes.

I've run most of the OME coil setups for the JK - and you're right that you'll be over 2". Moreover - to make it truly complete you'll have to spend a little more $.

For just a little more room my rec would be a small spacer kit such as the Tera Flex leveling kit or the new AEV spacer kit. Or ideally wait to see what the upcoming AEV 2" coil lift is like.

The tranny cooler is essential on the autos - glad to see that on your list. I'd say also get some armor for up front underneath. I like my Rockhard transmission/oil pan skid. Maybe use some of the $ saved from the lift towards that armor.

 

[lax71vcu]

I have been looking into more armor up front. Esp the oil pan area.

I have heard good things about rockhard...

I was also interested in the River Raider Aluminum skids. Anybody with some experience there?

I also just looked into the Rancho oil pan skid, or the new oil pan by benchmark designs. Not too sure about these two though.

Thanks for the input and I will surely keep the progress posted here.

 

[JPK]

I would be looking to keep weight gain limited. And that would point to aluminum skids.

Though I have the AEV 4.5" lift, which handles weight really well, I have a bunch of added weight already (Hemi - which adds suprisingly little weight, AEV front and rear bumpers, winch, 5 x 37's, a rear deck/box, smallish roof rack, 18gal auxillliary tank, small ~18qt Engel fridge, Hi Lift, recovery strap, shackles, removable front receiver/flat tow points/liscense plate mount... plus when heading out for more than a comute, tools and gear, air compressor, cooler, water...) and was looking to limit additional weight gain. So I went with the River Raider aluminum skids. Very nice and they did their job in Moab! (When I didn't do mine and landed on them a couple of times.)

I'm trying to learn from my LJ experience, when I think I added too much weight.

As far as lifts go, the "Tera Flex 2.5" BB" will 3" in front and 2" in the rear, getting rid of some rake and averaging 2.5" Ride will be the same as stock, handling will be almost the same with some slight loss of directional stability. My wife has the 2.5" TF BB on here JKU and never noticed the slight change in steering, but I did.

As pleased as I am with my AEV system, I would encourage you to wait to see what they end up offerring in the 2" spring lift, and for some user reports. AEV may be slow releasing products but they really do their homework and get them right.

Back to the River Raider aluminum skids, if you go with their engine and tranny skid you oght to go with their transfer case/belly skid as well. First because their front end skid is designed to work with their belly skid but also because the belly skid replaces an inadequate oem steel skid that weighs a lot more. You may end up with no net weight gain with their front end skid plus trans case/belly skid. That would be a blessing.

I had a whole skid system put in, which includes a skid over the steel gas tank skid and a skid over my 18 gal auxilliary fuel tank - the extra skid over the oem tank skid is unnessecary I think but when I was at River Raiders and we were laying out the auxlilliary skid there seemed no way to adequately support it without relying on the extra skid over the oem tank skid. Late in the game River Raiders found a way to instal the auxilliary skid without bolting it to their oem tank skid, but by then the oem tank skid was installed. So, the extra oem tank skid would be unessecary for an overlanding build, imo.

I posted a thread on the River Raider skid instal on my JKU a couple of months ago. Here's a photo that shows all of the River Raider skids (the engine/tranny skid needed to be dropped ~1" at the rear to clear the Hemi exhaust cross over, the 3.8l skid system bolts together flush, without the spacer (not seen in the photo) or the round chrome/steel bolt protectors (shown in the photo the auxilliary tank skid is the one on the back right of the photo; I think the River Raider engine/tranny/tranfer case skid system gets rid of potential front drive shft interference on auto's too

JPK

 

[m(a)ce]

JPK - I <3 the build - especially the custom work with RR!

The Rockhard stuff is definitely heavy. My Jeep is definitely heading to the tubby end of the scales - hence her nickname of Piggie. But then again it was built more so for hitting some East Coast rocky trails first and now is heading in more of a dual purpose with an overland capacity.

 

[JPK]

Thanks!

Kenny at RROR estimated the net weight gain on my JKU due to the RROR skids after removal of the oem steel Xcase skid to be ~50lbs. I think maybe 75lbs. The weight of the RROR steel skids is almost 175lbs. Quite a difference!

I should also mention that there were some clearence issues with the two tank skids and the AEV rear u joint/differential skid. We cut the AEV skid until we were at the point where we felt going more might weaken the AEV skid. There were still some clearence issues which became apparent in Moab. We thought of grinding the tanks skids but decided to see if a little trail running didn't do it for us. It did and now there is a rare squeek from the diff skid rubbing on one of the tank skids, generally the Aux tank skid. In a month or so I think the skids will have worn themselves into silence.

JPK

 

[lax71vcu]

Superchips???

Wondering if this is something people see as a must have. I would really like to bring some life to that transmission. That thing shifts like **** and it never shifts when it needs to. Why did I marry a woman who cant drive a standard!!!!!!!!!!

:littlefriend:

 

[JPK]

Wondering if this is something people see as a must have. I would really like to bring some life to that transmission. That thing shifts like **** and it never shifts when it needs to. Why did I marry a woman who cant drive a standard!!!!!!!!!!

:littlefriend:

There are a couple of plug in "tuners" that will improve throttle response of the "fly-by-wire" JK system, and improve shift points as well.

If you end up going with an AEV suspension, their ProCal comes with their "premium" systems (more complete and definitely worth the $'s over the non-premium option) and will recalibrate the JKU system for tire size and as I've been told also for shift points. Maybe also improve throttle response? I don't know, I've been pleased with my Jeep since I got it from AEV and haven't messed around with the ProCal. I was told that if I wanted to tow something substantial that it would be a good idea to use the ProCal to adjust shift points to a tow setting.

So, maybe read up on the ProCal to see if it would do the trick and tilt you toward an AEV system or at least make their costs more competitive with cheaper systems?

The Superchips option also allows a choice of three(?) tunes from 87 octane to premium, as I understand. I've read that some think the improvements are worth it, and some don't. Personally, rather than running a tune which would add some umph to the 3.8 but which would required premium 93 octane gas, I'd use the gas money for a good quality lift, like AEV's 3.5" lift, or their forthcoming 2" spring lift, or Rock Krawlers 2.5" Extreme Flex lift, which uses progressive springs like the AEV lifts. At a $.22 price difference between regular and premium, which is the current spread in VA, you're looking at an annual difference of about $300 assuming about 20k miles/year.

JPK

 

[Ryanc]

I have been looking into more armor up front. Esp the oil pan area.

I have heard good things about rockhard...

I was also interested in the River Raider Aluminum skids. Anybody with some experience there?

I also just looked into the Rancho oil pan skid, or the new oil pan by benchmark designs. Not too sure about these two though.

Thanks for the input and I will surely keep the progress posted here.

I have the rancho oil pan skid, it is very nice.

 

[lax71vcu]

How well does the glue hold Ryan? Did you add safety wire just incase the glue decides to let go? I am trying to decide between one of the more affordable oil plan protection solutions (Rancho or Benchmark) or the Big Money solutions i.e. River Raiders etc....

 

[JPK]

Go light weight!!!

 

[lax71vcu]

Contemplating the next step in my build

The next step in my build will be a skid plate for the oil pan

Not sure which one yet but it will either be the aluminum River Raider, Rancho, or Benchmark designs.

After that I am trying to decide wether I want to:

1. Install small cowel snorkel (from River Raider or Rugged Ridge)

2. Install small 2" lift waiting for the AEV 2" spring lift or possibly using the AEV 2" coil spacer lift

3. Superchips Flashpaq.

Any input on which should come first of these three?

Also I have been looking at upgrading from the stock Rubi 255/75/17 to the KM2 255/ 80/17. I have an auto Rubicon with the 4.10's and really don't want to regear. Any input on wether this would be needed with the slightly taller tires? What if I am towing say an offroad teardrop trailer?

Thanks

 

[Woodchuck]

JPK...do you have the longranger tank? If so where did you get it and if you don't mind me asking how much total for the tank and install?

 

[bldeagle10]

not to thread jack but i think someone up in oregon sells the long ranger tanks...i remember reading a thread about it a few months ago...

 

[JPK]

Yes, I have the Long Ranger 18gal auxilliary tank. Very nice, great improvement in range, but the gauge sender sucks - they sent two in the box, that was a forewarning! Haven't put in the second one yet, might get around to it some day, its not a big issue to me since you refill the main from the aux and your trip odometer will keep you informed of fuel state.

I got the tank through ARB, they ordered it from Long Ranger in Australia. It took a couple of months to get from Australia to ARB to me here in MD. IIRC, cost from ARB was +/-$1,750.

Instal for me was not cheap, partially because I have a Hemi in my JKU and the exhaust needed to be modified to accomodate the tank and because an AEV rear differential/u-joint skid interfered and needed to be dropped cut and fit/dropped cut and fit a number of times and then reinforced to get things right without sacrificing that skid's strength. All in, including exhaust work, I think instal was somthing like $2,100, but I try to forget big numbers associated with my Jeep. A couple of guys should be able to instal the tank in a Jeep with the 3.8, oem exhaust and no other added issues (like the AEV skid) over a weekend, surely over a long weekend.

The charcoal canister for the fuel tank vent needs to be relocated to behind the axle, but other than that the tank should fit right into a Jeep with original exhaust.

If you were to go the Long Ranger route, I would suggest ordering their armored tank, which came out after I'd ordered mine. The armored tank wouldn't need an extra skid, unless rock crawling was your passion.

The skids were beyond the prices noted above, I believe the skids all in were $3,000, primarily because the front engine oil pan/tranny pan skid had to be extensively reworked to fit my AEV Hemi and the auxlilliary tank skid was fabbed from scratch by by trial and error. (RROR's 3.8 skids would bolt on a 3.8 Jeep and they make a set of Hemi skids for the Burnsville Offroad Hemi conversion, but it doesn't bolt up on the AEV because of different motor mount locations, exhaust locations, etc.)

JPK