So I've joined the club, and now need some help!

[Lachstock]

So after driving a Troopy from Australia to Germany I decided I need a bit more space for the new rig! After looking around I settled on the FG canter.

After watching a few different FGs sell I bit the bullet and picked up a 2002/3 FG637 from Perth last week and drove it (almost) back to melbourne!

Was parked up for a couple of years but I had it checked over by a deisel mechanic who reckoned it was good to go. So headed off across the Nullabor back to Melbourne! Was a cracking trip across, perfect weather albeit with a lot of head winds.

After about 2500km I noticed the front wheels were scrubbing badly on the outsides, so checked and saw the wheel alignment was visibly out by a fair margin! It was seriously noticeable toe in so did a quick wheel alignment and changed over to the spare on the worse worn tire and was then good to go.. Was an experience changing the tire on one of these afetr a Troopy, need a little more purchase to crack the nuts than expected (and that they're bloody left hand threads on the LHS!)

Now... after getting to literally the Victorian border the diesel pump started acting up and a significant loss of power and managed to limp it into a friends house in Horsham. Have had it diagnosed and the pump is infact buggered so up for a new one! My question is, I've found a changeover replacement pump for around $2,600 for the 4D33... However, I have also found one of the mechanical 4D34T engine for under $4,000 that I'd rather drop in for the extra power.

So, are the 4D33 and the 4D34T (older mechanical) able to be interchanged without any modifications? I was thinking of putting a turbo on the 4D33 but for the price I might as well switch now the pump needs repairing as well.

Any info would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers,

Lachlan

 

[Aussie Iron]

Nice looking truck. Yes it looks like toe in was certainly out. Also yes left and right wheel nut threads.

Can't tell you if the pumps are interchangeable but just changing the pump won't necessary give you more power and it is not necessarily needed when you fit a turbo. Now if the 4D34t pump is standard with a boost compensator and will just fit on then that is certainly worth it. You need to realize that they are different capacity engines 4D33 is 4.214 cc, 83Kw at 3200 rpm and 4D34 is 3.907 cc and either 81 or 100 Kw at 2900rpm. So quite different settings. These pumps are fairly bullet proof so you would need to be sure that the pump is at fault and not just lacking diesel. Check all you unions up to the pump and make sure that none of them have a screen in them and are blocked.

Let us all know what you end up doing with the pump.

Dan.

 

[Amesz00]

Dan, I think he wants to swap out the whole motor.

 

[canter tourer]

Not knocking your diagnosis, but i have had very similar symptoms im the past where after driving for a while, a severe decrease in power occurs and seems like the pumps dying. Turned out to be a vacuum problem, of the pump trying to pull the fuel thru from the tank, but the breathers in the tank being blocked, this pressure eventually becomes to much for the pump to overcome and the truck slowly starts to die.
Easy diagnosis is undo the fuel cap when it happens and if their is an obvious rush of air into the tank and the syptoms resolve immediately then problem solved and tank breathers need cleaning out, finger crossed for you.

Dave

 

[Aussie Iron]

Dan, I think he wants to swap out the whole motor.

Reread it, yes.

 

[Lachstock]

Reread it, yes.

Yeah correct, figured it could be an option for a modest sum more than the pump if the change over was hassle free. I was looking at adding a turbo to the 33 anyways so hanging to the 34 would potentially kill two birds with one stone. I’m relatively new to these trucks so not sure if there’s large differences between the two engines.

I initially thought it could have been a blocked injector or not delivering enough fuel, I checked all the lines for tightness in case of air leak and couldn’t find anything. Eventually did the quick check at the injectors by loosening them off and no fuel was going to the injector on cylinder one. However plenty of pressure on the other three.

The funny thing was I just refuelled about 30km prior so thought it may have also been a bad batch of fuel, but I would have thought there’d still be fuel to all injectors in that case anyways...

If the engine swap ends up requiring a lot of fab work I will have the existing pump checked over by a diesel specialist and hopefully the repairs end up cheaper than the reco unit!

I must say though, after coming from a cruiser and then working on one of these the space you have is incredible with the cab up!

And thanks for the reply’s so far, much appreciated for a newby like me to these trucks


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[kerry]

Not sure about the 4d33 but I’m pretty sure the 4d34t in my 99 FG in the USA while a mechanical engigine has a drive by wire connection between the accelerator and the IP

 

[gait]

beat me to it Kerry, my 4D34 has drive by wire accelerator and a few other connections to a ECU (engine control unit). Like from speed sensor integrated with speedo cable on side of gearbox. Not sure whether the engine can be physically swapped but the electronics and wiring have to be looked at as well. The fuel pump on the 4D34 has its own little microprocessor inside.

 

[Lachstock]

That will definitely complicates things a bit, the guy from the Rocklea Truck parts seemed to think that there was a 4D34T without an ECU from an earlier model canter. I'll give him a call and see what he says and let you'll know.

I'm pulling the existing pump out today to get it looked at, hopefully nothing too serious but I assume its going to be a total rebuild like when Cruiser ones go bad.

 

[Amesz00]

Yea I think he's right- I'm pretty sure there's an earlier full mechanical 4d34. And don't take my word for it, but I think the 2 motors are very similar, and can probably be swapped with very little mod work. But I don't know that for sure.

Imo the factory turbo 4d34 would be a better motor anyway, having piston cooling, oil squirters etc.

 

[Lachstock]

So an interesting update!

I had enough time to get up to Horsham and spend some time properly diagnosing what was happening. spent a while bleeding everything and checking the fuel supply right up to the pump to make sure it was clear and all looked fine. Started checking where things were pumping from the pump and it was only running on two cylinders (3 and 4) and not pumping fuel to cylinder one. After a bit of mucking around discovered that when cylinder two was cracked it would then pump into cylinder one no problem. NOW, a first for me and something I'd never seen before but cyclinder twos injector was stuck wide open, so cylinder pressure was pumping back into the pump and mucking up deliver to cylinder one it seems.

Pulled the injector and it's off getting serviced now, there was quite a bit of broken metal as one of the collars had disintegrated inside the injector!

Hopefully once this injector is fixed I'll be able to get it home and into a diesel shop for a proper look over and probably get the rest of the injectors looked at as well!

So maybe not as big of a failure as first predicted!

 

[Aussie Iron]

That's interesting to hear.

Dan.

 

[kerry]

That is a fascinating diagnosis.

 

[Spanna 53]

Haven't struck that one either , when I read the first couple of posts I thought of the very fine filter in the banjo housing on top of the pump . A similar problem many years ago after some one had done their own engine swap was the banjo bolt on the return has a restricter in it to maintain pressure in the pump and when fitted in the supply line dose not allow enough fuel through to do what we would consider a reasonable for these old girls may be only 30 to 50 kph was top speed ,! Only found that after rechecking valve timing , pump timing etc. Ross

 

[Lachstock]

So, in with the NEW injector as the old one was to flogged our to repair apparently!

It fired up instantly and ran like a top on all four cylinders.... so after all that a simple injector switch and bled the lines up and away it went. Back to normal sluggish highway speed

So now the next question... where can one get their hands on the 4x4 transfer case activation cables from? Have found that both are worn through at the cross member next to the cab and it’s all locked up.

Hopefully they’re not to expensive!


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