I am thinking a light commercial wreaker in Dandenong or western suburbs can,t remember but got cables and selector for a resoable price but being transfer case selector you may find new is your only option having cables made up by a marine supplier is an option but any thing to do with boats is never going to be cheap getaprice from Fuso is a starting place and who knows that strange motor trade bloke Murphy may have some thing up his sleeve won't be the first genuine has been cheaper than aftermarket Ross
So I've joined the club, and now need some help!
- Thread starter Lachstock
- Start date
PKDreamers
Adventurer
Hi,
Try these guys https://www.flexibledrive.com.au/repair-a-cable
Try these guys https://www.flexibledrive.com.au/repair-a-cable
SkiFreak
Crazy Person
Not something I would actively consider, unless there were no other viable options.
Assuming that you cannot re-route the cable, one option might be to add some protection to the top of the cable, to stop the same thing happening again.
One way to do that would be to halve a section of stainless tube and Sika that onto the top of the cable, giving you a kind of wear plate. Alternately, some thick rubber could be used.
gait
Explorer
the chafing is apparently a common problem. My used vehicle came with spare cables. I wondered why. Also had some 6mm hard rubber wrapped around the cables where cables meet the sharp edge of the cross member, secured with cable ties. If that rubber ever wears (it has a notch in it after about 9 years and lots of rough roads of my ownership) I have some polyurethane I'll bend to shape with a bit of heat.
PS Owen is quicker to post than I .... seconds after finishing phone call.
PS Owen is quicker to post than I .... seconds after finishing phone call.
Aussie Iron
Explorer
I just use Poly pipe (I think 1/2") split and Sika flex, cable tied at the wear point. Been there since I've owned the Canter and not really a mark on it.
Dan.
Dan.
After nearly 50 years in the motor trade I still use genuine price as a starting point and work from there Stika is a god send auto heater hose is a bit thicker in the wall , chamfer the edge of the cross member a couple of cable ties used creatably and the cables may be able be able to slide with in the tube may help .Ross
MrHorsepower
Maker of STUFF
Glad to see you kept the truck. ( I contacted you about purchase when you had it for sale and since bought an ex rural fire service canter) hows it progressing? Pics...
Yeah was touch and go there for a bit, I picked up an FG434 that I thought might become the project truck.. but decided aircon and other mod cons meant that the newer one was the keeper! Going to hold on to the FG434 as it's got the crane to help with lifting off trays etc and then sell it once I'm done 
Finally got round to fitting the super singles!
No trimming needed at all in the end, and no touching anywhere even on lock... not bad!
Also made up a few eye hooks to strap spares to the tray as an interim solution.
Cruise rpm is heaps improved compared to the old wheels, and the speedo is now pretty close to accurate weirdly... Now it’s off to see if cylinder two isn’t firing due to a burnt valve. Hoping it’s only a burnt valve from the injector going and not anything more sinister. Fingers crossed.
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No trimming needed at all in the end, and no touching anywhere even on lock... not bad!
Also made up a few eye hooks to strap spares to the tray as an interim solution.
Cruise rpm is heaps improved compared to the old wheels, and the speedo is now pretty close to accurate weirdly... Now it’s off to see if cylinder two isn’t firing due to a burnt valve. Hoping it’s only a burnt valve from the injector going and not anything more sinister. Fingers crossed.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk