So you want to put King shocks on a Third Gen Montero...

[ChrisCosta416]

You should ask them how hard/$ it would be to have some longer upper and lower control arms would be to have made. Anyone have any idea on how much longer the control arms could be with the stock CV's?
I'm thinking if we had some slightly longer control arms, it would make the most use of our OEM limited amount of wheel travel especially when adding a 2” HD OME type lift springs.
Or would it be easier to put a "body lift" between the body and suspension subframe?

Hi there,

they are actually making a upper control arm and it will be slightly longer which will allow for more travel. I pick up the truck on Monday!

 

[Schitzangiggles]

How much?

 

[Toasty]

You should ask them how hard/$ it would be to have some longer upper and lower control arms would be to have made. Anyone have any idea on how much longer the control arms could be with the stock CV's?
I'm thinking if we had some slightly longer control arms, it would make the most use of our OEM limited amount of wheel travel especially when adding a 2” HD OME type lift springs.
Or would it be easier to put a "body lift" between the body and suspension subframe?

One of my friends couldn't take no for an answer so I'm currently making a subframe drop and adjustable trailing arms for the Gen 3. The rear has plenty of travel on these to start and the limiting factor for the front is the CV's, above 34's you need to look into cryo treating and micropolishing. More travel means weaker CV's as they angle they also are not as strong. CV's need to be addressed BEFORE adding suspension travel, for realz. Ask yourself "am i actually wheeling this to it's limits that i need more travel?" (Probably not) or do we just want more lift for bigger tires to look cool (this is also a fine answer, let's just not lie to ourselves). These questions change our limits and how we build. Chances are if you haven't installed lockers or transfer case gears you're nowhere near needing long travel or more lift unless it's cool factor you're after.

 

[Schitzangiggles]

Some of us haul ass through the dunes and while I did some of the pre-run for Peterson's Four Wheel and Off-road Ultimate Adventure 2006 in my wife's VW Passat with Rick Pewe, I want some more travel while bombing down the desert roads and catching a bit of air while playing in the dunes.

I can either get more travel/clearance with longer arms or bigger tires or both. Or the subframe drop which should keep the factory travel but allow bigger tires?

If I want to play in the rocks(needing lockers) I have my "Montangler" (Wrangler heavily modded with Montero gen 2 and 2.5 parts) to do that with. Our gen 3 is our high-speed highwaydesert/dune rig because it has IFS vs solid axles and lockers.

I don't have access to a shop/garage or local Fab shop so I have to perform all of my stuff in my gravel driveway with whatever air-conditioning/heat/precipitation and wind mother nature decides to gift me with that day. To day she gave me 21* this morning and a heavy frost... Soon it's going to be snow and the wrong side of 0*F

I wish I lived closer to you so I could noodle some ideas with you and be guided by your knowledge base as I build up our Gen3 because the stuff you do is pretty sick.

 

[Toasty]

If that's your goal just get the King setup in this topic and maybe 1up ChrisCosta416 by adding hydro bump stops. Haul even more ass, these Monteros were built for it.

 

[ChrisCosta416]

If that's your goal just get the King setup in this topic and maybe 1up ChrisCosta416 by adding hydro bump stops. Haul even more ass, these Monteros were built for it.

Do it! I asked King and the bumpstops they have would be too tight of a fit for the rear, so looks like cutting is involved.

 

[Schitzangiggles]

So what all is involved in the subframe drop?

 

[Toasty]

Making parts. It's really simple, I'll post up pics when I'm done. Basically it's a hardcore body lift with custom trailing arms thrown in. It could be rednecked for tens of dollars but we're talking about wheeling so material quality and precision is ideal.

 

[Schitzangiggles]

Tens of dollars...

 

[Schitzangiggles]

Would you just use pucks (metal or polyurethane) or would you build a boxed frame to distribute the forces across a wider area and lessen/mitigate the leverage to the bolts/unibody from the subframe drop?

 

[Toasty]

I'm making pucks larger than the diameter of the stock mounting points so they'll have more surface area than before. I wouldn't use a plastic because as it deforms you may have alignment issues or worse of a puck were to break once the material dry rots a bit...
I made them from aluminum, actually making the trailing arms aluminum too. One could build a frame to distribute the weight but i don't think that's necessary once you see how they did it from the factory. The trailing arms could be dropped via a simple bracket but i chose to make adjustable ones instead.

 

[Schitzangiggles]

You doing an inch of lift or a bit more?
And how much to be a secondary beta tester for your pucks?

 

[Toasty]

You doing an inch of lift or a bit more?
And how much to be a secondary beta tester for your pucks?

I'm doing a 2", this is just a job for a friend who insists on running 35's. I'm no longer in the parts business.

 

[Schitzangiggles]

So just a 2" aluminum puck front and rear with coil spacers? Would that be in addition to a lift kit?

 

[Toasty]

Sorta, two of the rears are different AND the trailing arms need to be addressed.